Suspension Setting 04 R1200GS

[Kevin]

Hi All
I am getting confused about how to set up my suspension.
I normally only ride it with one up, shortly I am loading her up with luggage (3 Vario box's and a haversack). Can anyone tell me in simple terms how to set the suspension up for this luggage etc. What is damping, preload, what else do I need to know. Would apprecraite some help as I am setting off shortly.
I just need simply instructions as part of the problem is no doubt myself

Thanks

 

[Bryn]

Just give the big knob on the side a few turns to the right... thats the rear spring preload ... that's all you need to do... it'll have a scale on the side of it... all the way in is two up with luggage

TBH if you're happy with the set up normally then unless the boxes are rammed with heavy stuff it'd probably be fine as it is....

 

[Kevin]

Thanks Bryn
Last time out with the luggage it was bottoming out even through I had made some adjustments as you described.

 

[Bryn]

In that case wind the rear preload down fully, see how it goes, and if its still bottoming out it may be your shock is past its sell by date

 

[CuzGS]

Mate in simple terms,

Preload - Where the suspension sits at rest, you can move this up and down so if loading bike wind up as the good moderator says.


Compression - How quickly the suspension compresses should you say hit a bump or pot hole.

Rebound - How quickly it goes boing after being compressed, so if you go over a bump how quickly the suspension boings back again


Ill probably get shot down by tech speak now but in a nutshell thats what they mean.

If you use the settings in the manual you wont go far wrong, minute adjustments are horseshit for average riders not in MOTO GP, anyone mentioning changing oil and winding something one click is probably just showing others how ace a pilot he is.

Good luck with your ride

 

[Rasher]

As above, the stock suspension only has single damping adjuster at rear, tends to be refered to as rebound damping, but it will also slightly affect compression damping.

The pre-load affects how high the bike sits, on sportsbikes this is easier to adjust for solo use as you should have about 10-15mm static sag (i.e. measure distance from hub to bodywork on centre stand and again when off stand)

With adventure bikes the numbers are not so standardised, but 20 - 25mm is probably about right.

If pre-load is insufficient the bike will probably feel lazy turning, if it is too hard it may feel a bit choppy - try adjusting until you find a setting that "feels good"

When you put a passenger on this will want whacking up quite a few turns, and again if too soft the bike will feel lazy to turn.

The damping adjuster is a doddle to set - as soft as you can get away with without the bike wallowing (oscilating up and down after bumps and feeling weavy on sweeping turns)

On my 2008 I had the damping adjuster just 1 turn out for solo use and two-up with luggage found it needed to be fully in (and still wallowed a little) the pre-load needed about 3-4 turns for the Mrs on back and another 2-3 with luggage.

Go for a solo ride with the damping about 3 turns out from fully in, start with pre-load 2-3 turns less than the bike currently has and keep adding more until it feels better - keep going until it feels worse again then back off a bit, do same with damping, (but change by 1/2 turn at a time) it should not take you long to find a point where the bike feels good.

For two-up your probably gonna need to add 3-5 turns on the pre-load and an extra turn or two on the damping, so maybe put four turns on pre-load, 1 turn on damping from the solo settings you like and fine tune as you go along.

Damping is easy, if it wallows add more, if it feels too harsh over bumps take some off, the pre-load is more of a suck-it-and-see affair.

 

[Kevin]

Thanks for all the information, I am off to try and sort this out once and all.

Cheers

 

[Peak Rider]

Kevin, if you've still got the original shock on the bike you're not likely getting full pre-load when you turn the adjuster fully in. It's easy enough to correct.

Remove shock from bike. Back off the preload adjuster fully and remove spring from shock. You'll need a shock spring compressor for this. On the other end of the pre-load adjuster shaft is a small screw. With the screw facing upwards remove it and add a 15W (or heavier) fork oil and fill the volume right up. You won't need much oil as there's not a lot in there. Reassemble. If you want me to talk you through it send me a PM.

Cheers,

 

[CuzGS]

Not withstanding my previous rashers advice is sound too, if it looks like you runout of anything thats the next port of call, a word of caution, suspension is what keeps rubber on road so if any doubt then take to someone who can sort it safely, youre welcome to pop to mine if you need it looking at mate

 

[VAL. H.]

Mate in simple terms,

Preload - Where the suspension sits at rest, you can move this up and down so if loading bike wind up as the good moderator says.


Compression - How quickly the suspension compresses should you say hit a bump or pot hole.

Rebound - How quickly it goes boing after being compressed, so if you go over a bump how quickly the suspension boings back again


Ill probably get shot down by tech speak now but in a nutshell thats what they mean.

If you use the settings in the manual you wont go far wrong, minute adjustments are horseshit for average riders not in MOTO GP, anyone mentioning changing oil and winding something one click is probably just showing others how ace a pilot he is.

Good luck with your ride

As above, the stock suspension only has single damping adjuster at rear, tends to be refered to as rebound damping, but it will also slightly affect compression damping.

The pre-load affects how high the bike sits, on sportsbikes this is easier to adjust for solo use as you should have about 10-15mm static sag (i.e. measure distance from hub to bodywork on centre stand and again when off stand)

With adventure bikes the numbers are not so standardised, but 20 - 25mm is probably about right.

If pre-load is insufficient the bike will probably feel lazy turning, if it is too hard it may feel a bit choppy - try adjusting until you find a setting that "feels good"

When you put a passenger on this will want whacking up quite a few turns, and again if too soft the bike will feel lazy to turn.

The damping adjuster is a doddle to set - as soft as you can get away with without the bike wallowing (oscilating up and down after bumps and feeling weavy on sweeping turns)

On my 2008 I had the damping adjuster just 1 turn out for solo use and two-up with luggage found it needed to be fully in (and still wallowed a little) the pre-load needed about 3-4 turns for the Mrs on back and another 2-3 with luggage.

Go for a solo ride with the damping about 3 turns out from fully in, start with pre-load 2-3 turns less than the bike currently has and keep adding more until it feels better - keep going until it feels worse again then back off a bit, do same with damping, (but change by 1/2 turn at a time) it should not take you long to find a point where the bike feels good.

For two-up your probably gonna need to add 3-5 turns on the pre-load and an extra turn or two on the damping, so maybe put four turns on pre-load, 1 turn on damping from the solo settings you like and fine tune as you go along.

Damping is easy, if it wallows add more, if it feels too harsh over bumps take some off, the pre-load is more of a suck-it-and-see affair.

Kevin,

As above Technically this is correct. However it's actually very simple to set the bike up for two up touring.

Now, assuming you are happy with the way your bike handels solo, all you need to do is add preload (wind the knob on the side as Bryn has mensioned).

Before turning the knob or adding any passenger or luggage. Sitting on the bike set your mirrors for solo riding and take note of what you can see in them.

Now load the bike and add the preload to the shock. Wind it up all the way. Get on the bike and get your pillion on too. look in the mirrors and back off the preload till the original view is obtained. (turn once, bounce in the seat, check mirrors. Repete as necessary).

To refine the ride you will need to adjust the damping. This will stop the bike pogoing or feeling like it's bogging down. Ideally you should do this solo with no luggage. Carry a small screwdriver and stop periodically and try diferent settings untill your happy with the ride. Once this is done it should be simply a case of turning the preload to adjust the ride hight to compensate for pillion etc. As long as your mirrors are looking at the same view all will be fine

Good luck, have a great holliday.


Val.


PS:

Kevin, if you've still got the original shock on the bike you're not likely getting full pre-load when you turn the adjuster fully in. It's easy enough to correct.

Remove shock from bike. Back off the preload adjuster fully and remove spring from shock. You'll need a shock spring compressor for this. On the other end of the pre-load adjuster shaft is a small screw. With the screw facing upwards remove it and add a 15W (or heavier) fork oil and fill the volume right up. You won't need much oil as there's not a lot in there. Reassemble. If you want me to talk you through it send me a PM.

Cheers,

Well I didn't know it was that easy.