Suspension Settings 1150 gs

[GSAde]

Going touring soon with SWMBO - 1st time she's been out for more than a day. So will be loaded with System cases, top box & her. (Weight of rider & pillion combined approx 22 stones + luggage) Obviously I need to up the rear preload, but do I need to change the front as well? Logic (?) suggests that more weight on the rear will to some extent counter the extra weight on the front but I could be wrong - usually am

Also do I need to alter the rebound damping on either front or rear? - I have Ohlins shocks.

Ade

 

[Mzokk]

If you up the preload I'd up the rebound damping too. I've got an Ohlins unit on another bike. If yours is like mine you adjust the rebound damping via a knurled nob on the bottom of the shock. I'd ramp up the preload (to keep the bike closer to standard geometry if nothing else) and go about 4clicks up on rebound. If its too hard (Kicks off bumps) back it off a couple of clicks. If the bike still wallows in long sweeping bends and feels squishy go up another couple of clicks. The front will probably be ok as long as you adjust tyre pressures as per the handbook. You may not be able to ride enthusiastically enough for any of it to matter without getting a punch in the kidneys. Thats my experience anyway!

 

[DavidHolmes]

I realise that in the light of the previous post that this probably is not what you want to hear, but....

After much trial, error, and setting up by Harris Performance I would recommend leaving the front completely alone. If your Ohlins is as mine, you cannot adjust the rebound anyway, just the pre load.

I have found the rear pre-load needs to be wound right up, and the rebound damping wound OFF. Basically, although adding more preload without more weight needs more rebound damping added, if you are adding more weight the damping needs to be wound off (because the extra weight effectively prevents the spring from rebounding, hence adds rebound damping in itself).

I accept that this advice goes againt conventional wisdom on this board, the only reason I am posting this is that having struggled two up (with camping gear) with the standard shock (the manual only says to 'adjust' the rebound, doesnt tell you which way) I bought the Ohlins. I added a couple of clicks, it was better sometimes but very bad others, added a couple of clicks etc etc. Decided they were crap, rang Harris, they told me I was going the wrong way, and hey presto, truly great.

For the record, I knock 4 clicks off rebound (from solo settings) for wife and full 4 week camping luggage, and 2 clicks off for wife and weekend camping or 4 week B&B luggage.

As I have said, this advice is the opposite of all the advice given to me on this board, so treat my recommendations in that light.

And Harris Performance (the importers) have a phone line, and were always happy to offer me free advice over said phone.

 

[ahutcheon]

I'm on the stock suspension, not Ohlins, so this might not work for you. All I do for pillion + luggage is to wind up the rear preload to keep the plot at about the same rear ride hight as solo - about ten turns up from "standard", a little more if the luggage is heavy. I don't touch the front or the rebound and it seems to work fine (maybe due to years of putting up with much worse suspension on other bikes!).

 

[Wreford Miles]

I agree with David.... I never touch the front and that's been the case with both standard and ohlins.

And I've carried some heavy loads at a fair old speed.

I've never tried adjusting the rebound on the back and may well do next time.

Regarding how much preload... I just wind a load on and when I sit on the bike I then think does this feel right and are my feet touching the ground in the same way as an unloaded bike.

You'll know when it's right.

 

[simonm]

I have found the rear pre-load needs to be wound right up, and the rebound damping wound OFF. Basically, although adding more preload without more weight needs more rebound damping added, if you are adding more weight the damping needs to be wound off (because the extra weight effectively prevents the spring from rebounding, hence adds rebound damping in itself).

Agree with David - more rear preload=less rear rebound.
Not sure about "wound right up" depends where it was before you started. I'd suggest ten full turns extra as a starting point.
Just make sure you make a note of what you did.