Swinging arm bearings

[Rusty Bolts]

The next bit uses the left hand spigot thingy tool. I torqued up the centre bolt to the REPROM recommended 7nm. It is about the same as you can do by hand without a leaver. I then put some lines on it so I could see if it moved during the next stage

This is the set up for the next bit. I used an electronic torque reader.

You need to tighten it up to 145nm

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Sorry delayed due to wife required to be rescued from another a genuine Devon leg eating spider . This one had attitude and an outstanding ASBO.

Things I would recommend for the budding DIY bearing changer.
Make sure you get genuine BMW bearings as they are sealed (see previous posts)
Gather your tools especially the heat gun, adjuster socket thingy (£13) and the blind bearing puller (£20). It makes the job so much easier.
Ensure that you heat the swinging arm up to 80c and chuck the bearings in the freezer it makes insertion so much easier.
I pre-greased the rear of the bearing and worked it in to the rollers.
Make sure you take advantage of the strip down to give things a good clean and lubricate

Use ACF50 where you can especially in the bearing spigot and bearing housing when reassembling.
Overall the job took about two hours but I was cleaning a lot of things as well as giving the rear brake a good clean
The old bearings looked like this

Unfortunately I can't split them so it's not possible to show the races.

 

[bikemad]

Super post Iv got to take mine off to reseat the seal hoping I don't have to replace bearings,got me socket ready cost me £11.96 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330737204202?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Rusty Bolts]

The YouTube clip I used is the one in Greek and I searched under "BMW R1200GS Replacing Rubber Boots". It has all the torque values and the tools used.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM

In the clip he put the front bellow over the shaft first. I tried that and found it really difficult to seat them in the swinging arm. So I put it on the swinging arm first-the result is the same. Also I'm not too keen on removing the swinging arm bearing seal like he does in the clip as they look quite delicate. I suppose if done carefully it should be fine. On the final drive lower pivot there is a large stepped washer the goes on the inner face of the sealed bearing side. Around the edge there is a very thin O ring to keep water out. Check that is still intact and seated properly as it can be easily lost.
I forgot to mention that I used a laser temperature reader as well-very handy

 

[bikemad]

I forgot to mention that I used a laser temperature reader as well-very handy

Ahh I did wonder how you got exact values

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Ahh I did wonder how you got exact values

The REPROM disc has the temperatures and torque values as well.

 

[aage]

Thanks a LOT for pulling this together for all of us to learn from. I saved it for later use.

 

[Bendy toy]

I will be doing this some time soon because my 08 Adv has standard Mk2 rust. The subframes (front and back) need to go for powder coat at Wing & Son, Totnes.

 

[bikemad]

Just doing mine checked the torque setting it's 105 ft pounds in English for the big nut,back together soon hopefully get out on her

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Just doing mine checked the torque setting it's 105 ft pounds in English for the big nut,back together soon hopefully get out on her

105ftlbs is about 145nm. It seems a straightforward job just work methodically.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

I will be doing this some time soon because my 08 Adv has standard Mk2 rust. The subframes (front and back) need to go for powder coat at Wing & Son, Totnes.

Not heard of Wing and Son. Are they bike sympathetic?

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Pukmeister
I pulled the bearings apart and they looked like this inside

This was the smoother of the two. Still pitted and worn where the rollers contact

This was the roughest feeling one and you can see it is quite bad.
However, there was no detectable play in the rear end at various swinging arm positions.

 

[bikemad]

Pukmeister
I pulled the bearings apart and they looked like this inside
This was the roughest feeling one and you can see it is quite bad.
However, there was no detectable play in the rear end at various swinging arm positions.

1000s of miles left in them lol

 

[Bendy toy]

The same few degrees on bearing surface gets all of the stick.
Any proper engineer will tell you that rolling element bearings are designed for rotating shafts. Oscillating movements rub the grease out and bearing quickly gets knotched.

These days with polymer bearings like Igus there is no need to use metal bearings in suspension. Their stuff is used in industrial and agricultural plant so more than up to the task.

 

[alex_rsa]

Sorry for the dredge of an old post but it is a good one...

Bearing puller and Laser 4740 ordered.

Did you get the bearings from BMW in the end? Did you need anything else but the bearings?


Last thing, what grease for the bearings?


Thanks


Alex

 

[Bendy toy]

The bearings are a BMW only size. I ended up with angular contact ball bearings which were available in the same dimensions as the BMW taper rollers. Cost about £15 a pair against £40. They've now done 5K with no signs of trouble. We'll see how they can cope in the long run.

 

[alex_rsa]

Thanks Bendy,

I PM'ed Russ and he also used BMW bearings in the end.


Alex

 

[Bendy toy]

BMW bearings are the correct type but I reasoned they all rub the grease out so life is limited and the ball type was much lower cost. I opened the seals on mine and filled them with moly grease. That would be very bad news for a wheel bearing but ideal for these rocking motion uses.

 

[Hoff]

Hi Bendy
I am just in the process of renewing mine, ordered from BMW (€48 for the pair in Portugal)
How long do you estimate these bearings last?
My bike has 40000 miles on and the left hand one disintegrated and the right one is on the way out.
Cheers
Paul

 

[Bendy toy]

UKGSer Swing arm bearings

I've had my bike from 33K. At 50K, both swing arm bearings were really scabby so might have been original. My previous bike was the shaft drive Yamaha 900 that needed new swing arm bearings at about 35K. In swing arm terms it's a very similar setup to the GS, but bearings were even more scabby.

So in terms of life, I'd say with standard amounts of grease 30K before they start to get knotchy and maybe another 10K if well filled with moly grease (maybe). Strip and regrease every 25K might help them to last a bit longer. It's a shame they can't be topped up with a grease gun as you would with plain bronze bushes.