switching options for HIDed HEs

spin

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Strongly considering fitting a pair of HIDed HEs to my 1150GSA. I got a switch (FH02C Sub-Min Toggle C) at Maplins and so I need to know if this switch will take the current. Plate on switch side says 2A 250VAC /
5A 125VAC

If I'm running these lights with a supply from the side light via a relay am I right in thinking that the switch only needs to run enough current to switch the relay and not the actual current needed for the lamps?

If so, how much current will the switch need to handle?

if this works i will fit a toggle cover to keep water out & add an LED.



I would welcome any words of wisdom.

Cheers

#Spin
 
I stand to be corrected here but that switch says 250VAC/125VAC whereas the bikes run on 12VDC. You'll need to get yourself a 12V DC switch.

If I'm running these lights with a supply from the side light via a relay am I right in thinking that the switch only needs to run enough current to switch the relay and not the actual current needed for the lamps?

Correct, but make sure the relay can take the current. If for instance you have 2x35w HIDs, the relay needs to be able to take 5.83 amps during normal running ( watts/volts = amps - (2x35)/12 ) but seems to draw a fair bit more power when starting up. I've blown 10A fuses on 35w HIDs. So for safety make sure the fuse & relay can take 15 amps. Get a 30A or 40A from Maplins.

I personally would not take the power from the side light. The best way to do it is to get yourself a fuse box which is wired directly to the battery. Place a relay between the fuse box and the battery and switch the power from something like the tail light (so you only can turn the lights on if the ignition is on). From the fuse box take the power for your HIDs but again add a relay between the HIDs and the fuse box and then use your handlebar switch

If so, how much current will the switch need to handle?

Had a look at a 40A relay on Maplin site and it seems to only need something like 130mA so whatever the relay needs, the switch needs to be able to handle.
 
If you use a relay then the switch will only need to carry minimal switching current.
Stewart
 
I stand to be corrected here but that switch says 250VAC/125VAC whereas the bikes run on 12VDC. You'll need to get yourself a 12V DC switch.

So long as you use a relay the switch will be fine. The relay activation circuit will draw next to nothing in current and the 250v rating is an upper limit, you can happily use it with lower voltages.

However, I suspect a Maplin toggle switch will look ugly and not last long if exposed to the elements.

regards
Darren
 
So long as you use a relay the switch will be fine. The relay activation circuit will draw next to nothing in current and the 250v rating is an upper limit, you can happily use it with lower voltages.

However, I suspect a Maplin toggle switch will look ugly and not last long if exposed to the elements.

thanks for that guys, i think ill give it a go.
I can always replace the switch with a proper bar mount type if the toggle doesn't go the distance.

i was going to mount a neon in parallel with the signal supply from switch! any thoughts?


Spin
 
So long as you use a relay the switch will be fine. The relay activation circuit will draw next to nothing in current and the 250v rating is an upper limit, you can happily use it with lower voltages.

However, I suspect a Maplin toggle switch will look ugly and not last long if exposed to the elements.

thanks for that guys, i think ill give it a go.
I can always replace the switch with a proper bar mount type if the toggle doesn't go the distance.

i was going to mount a neon in parallel with the signal supply from switch! any thoughts?

Spin

An LED will be what you want if you want a light. Having said that, I wouldn't put a light on at all. If you need an indicator to tell you your spots are on you need brighter spots! That's not just being flippant - I purposely broke the indicator light on the switch for my spots as it got on my nerves when at night.

I just saw a thread on the 1200 forum where Les Wassal pointed to a quality looking bar mounted switch - looks very nice, certainly better than the spot switch I have.

regards
Darren
 
An LED will be what you want if you want a light. Having said that, I wouldn't put a light on at all. If you need an indicator to tell you your spots are on you need brighter spots! That's not just being flippant - I purposely broke the indicator light on the switch for my spots as it got on my nerves when at night.

I just saw a thread on the 1200 forum where Les Wassal pointed to a quality looking bar mounted switch - looks very nice, certainly better than the spot switch I have.

regards
Darren


I thought a light to confirm aux lights are on was a legal requirement.
Also the thing is i need two switches, one for HEs & one for FF50s. Les's switch is first class, but i cant fit two together on the left bar where i would like them.

Spin
 
he ff50

I thought a light to confirm aux lights are on was a legal requirement.
Also the thing is i need two switches, one for HEs & one for FF50s. Les's switch is first class, but i cant fit two together on the left bar where i would like them.

Spin

I don't know for sure, but now you say it, that does sounds like the sought of thing that is required. Nonetheless, my GS passed its MOT last week without an indicator light (and in fact with only one AUX light attached), and I had aftermarket aux lights on my car which also passed various MOTs without an indicator light - maybe I was just lucky.

regards
Darren

PS - we all know aftermarket lights are cool on motorbikes but naff on cars, however, it was an old car with appauling lights so forgive me
 
I don't know for sure, but now you say it, that does sounds like the sought of thing that is required. Nonetheless, my GS passed its MOT last week without an indicator light (and in fact with only one AUX light attached), and I had aftermarket aux lights on my car which also passed various MOTs without an indicator light - maybe I was just lucky.

regards
Darren

PS - we all know aftermarket lights are cool on motorbikes but naff on cars, however, it was an old car with appauling lights so forgive me

Currently running with a pair of aux halogen lights & been through MOT without even a question. Ill install LEDs, i can always disconnect if they are a distraction.
 


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