Tartivating my 'new' 1150GS

[steadysteve]

Thanks for posting Andy.
Might be an idea to remove the two coats of paint from the rear wheel mounting holes. The paint will break up and allow a tiny amount of play to develop, which in turn could cause the bolts to loosen.
It needs to be metal on metal ideally.
This phenomenonenom was identified years ago as one factor in HGV wheels coming off the vehicle.

 

[621Andy]

Thanks for posting Andy.
Might be an idea to remove the two coats of paint from the rear wheel mounting holes. The paint will break up and allow a tiny amount of play to develop, which in turn could cause the bolts to loosen.
It needs to be metal on metal ideally.
This phenomenonenom was identified years ago as one factor in HGV wheels coming off the vehicle.

There's no paint on the inside of the cones or the inside head of the bolts so I'm not too worried...

 

[621Andy]

Refitting the crashbars was the next job...Always a fun job

They're Hepco & Becker one and seem quite well made, although the top-front mount on one side of mine has been re-welded. They polish up quite well and I removed the remains of the sticky label at the same time.

I've found the best way to fit bars is to just get a few turns into each bolt and then juggle everything around the get it to fit properly. The problem I had was getting the bolts through the sub-frame and into the casing; The subframe needed to be lifted a fraction to get everything lined up which not an easy job on your own
Eventually I got everything in place...

 

[621Andy]

I also had a bash at trying to clean up the cylinders especially down between the cooling fins. Not a brilliant job but better than it was. Maybe a future job is to give them a coat of Smoothrite too at some point

 

[621Andy]

One of the final jobs for now was to tidy up the paintwork.

It wasn't in bad nick considering its age but the tank especially needed a t-cut and polish.

I also gave the plastics a clean up with various 'products', none of which really worked until I found a can of Nigrin stuff in the back of a cupboard; Bloody good stuff that still remains shiny the next day, unlike most of the crap that's for sale(and I seem to have a box full of) Linky here: https://www.amazon.de/Cockpitspray-...rin+kunststoffreiniger&qid=1592340218&sr=8-16

 

[621Andy]

Well that sort of brings me up to date. I've done about 500km on the bike now and nothing has fallen off or broken...yet

The seat ( A Baehr jobby) is much more comfortable than the KTM one, and the leg angle which I thought would be a problem, isn't. The Remus is bloody loud and a bit wearing on a long autobahn run even with earplugs, so I may be forced to go back to the original
Oh, and I had to give it a wash after being caught out in the pissing rain the other day which covered it in a fine layer of shite, which after all my efforts was most welcome

I've also fitted a bar bag which I found for 20€ in the local bike shop, and a smaller magnetic tank bag too. I'll keep the huge Touratwat one for longer trips. The bar bag is especially useful as it has one of those waterproof outlets for a cable so I can chuck my phone in and charge it too. I seems to keep the rain out quite well too, although being behind the screen it didn't get a full soaking. Being self employed I've got to keep a mileage log, so the little book goes in there too. I'll post a couple of pics shortly...

Next job is to tackle the flaccid stand once the O-rings arrive (hopefully tomorrow) which I'll try and document.

 

[621Andy]

Couple of pics of the bar bag and tank bag. Not keen on the hideous logo on the bar bag, but I'm gonna have to live with it I suppose

 

[621Andy]

Bath time

 

[621Andy]

I gather the angle of dangle of the beast when it's on the sidestand is a 'feature' of these bikes. I may try and source a hockey puck and bodge it to fit, but they do look like a 'club' foot when they're on

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

On the noisy exhaust front you have 3 or 4 options

a) standard cat and exhaust - quiet and heavy

b) standard cat and Remus - lighter and not noisy, my preference after 20 years on 1150’s

c) Y piece and Remus - very noisy and light

d) Y piece and standard can - balance between weight and oomph v noise, many like this set up, but standard can weighs a ton and looks crap

e) standard cat and stubby, no can - another popular newer modification and is quiet and lightweight option and allows fitting of a full sized left plastic pannier from a RS/RT

 

[Neil W]

Well that sort of brings me up to date. I've done about 500km on the bike now and nothing has fallen off or broken...yet

The seat ( A Baehr jobby) is much more comfortable than the KTM one, and the leg angle which I thought would be a problem, isn't. The Remus is bloody loud and a bit wearing on a long autobahn run even with earplugs, so I may be forced to go back to the original
Oh, and I had to give it a wash after being caught out in the pissing rain the other day which covered it in a fine layer of shite, which after all my efforts was most welcome

I've also fitted a bar bag which I found for 20€ in the local bike shop, and a smaller magnetic tank bag too. I'll keep the huge Touratwat one for longer trips. The bar bag is especially useful as it has one of those waterproof outlets for a cable so I can chuck my phone in and charge it too. I seems to keep the rain out quite well too, although being behind the screen it didn't get a full soaking. Being self employed I've got to keep a mileage log, so the little book goes in there too. I'll post a couple of pics shortly...

Next job is to tackle the flaccid stand once the O-rings arrive (hopefully tomorrow) which I'll try and document.

Re the exhaust noise when I had my 1150 many moons ago I went through the combination of Remus y piece and Remus can, standard cat and Remus can , Remus y piece and standard exhaust can.

Remus and y piece far too noisy
Remus can and cat noisy ,bit better performance
Remus y piece and standard can, better performance and only a little noisier than standard

 

[621Andy]

Interesting...The previous owner gave me the cat for the Remus and the original can and huuuuge exhaust box/cat.
The current set-up is the Remus with a Y-piece without the little cat fitted; The PO told me to refit the cat for the TüV(MoT)

So it looks like sticking The Remus cat in might quieten things down a bit

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

I gather the angle of dangle of the beast when it's on the sidestand is a 'feature' of these bikes. I may try and source a hockey puck and bodge it to fit, but they do look like a 'club' foot when they're on

I’ve fitted an ice hockey puck to mine and it sits much better on the side stand. Road camber will probably be in your favour in Germany whereas here it works against you but a fully loaded GS is a lot of weight to pick up of the worst case scenario happens.

The easiest way to get a puck is from Amazon and you’ll probably pay less than €10 for one. Once you’ve got it buy a cheap side stand extender and use longer screws to trap the puck between the two halves of the extender.

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

Interesting...The previous owner gave me the cat for the Remus and the original can and huuuuge exhaust box/cat.
The current set-up is the Remus with a Y-piece without the little cat fitted; The PO told me to refit the cat for the TüV(MoT)

So it looks like sticking The Remus cat in might quieten things down a bit

Leave the cat and just fit a stubby exhaust. It’ll be marginally louder, feel a little bit more responsive and it’s easy to refit the standard end can for the TUV test.

 

[Neil W]

Fit a 1150 gsa sidestand ,exactly the right length for a standard suspension 1150gs, or modify yours by adding a 35 mm extension

 

[621Andy]

Sooo, the centre stand O-rings finally turned up yesterday

I psyched myself up for an afternoon's fighting to get the spindle out, but it all went swimmingly!

First task is getting the springs off; Whilst I was nosing around the local bike shop the other day I came across a hooky thing spring puller. Previously on my AT and Varadero I'd used a length of Paracord but this seemed worth a punt at 8€...
I tried various methods but these are much stiffer springs than the Jap ones I found it easiest to unhook them one at a time from the 'top' end, starting with the big one. The smaller one holds everything in place but is easy to remove.

The next job is to remove the end screws (with a 5mm Allen) which protect the ends of the 10mm Allen heads.

You'll then need 2 x 10mm Allen keys to hold each end of the spindle.

 

[621Andy]

I suspect mine has been apart at some point as it wasn't seized in place although there was very little actual grease visible and the O-rings hadn't been replaced

I gather normally the two stub ends come off and the axle stays in place and has to be tapped out(This was the bit I wasn't looking forward to!) However the axle came out attached to one of the stub ends which made life easier

One thing to remember is where and on which side the spacers go between the stand and engine casing!

As I started cleaning everything up, one of the O-rings just fell apart so it was overdue a tart-up...

 

[621Andy]

There are 6 O-rings in total; 3 on each side. I got mine from a BMW Stealer but I'm sure you can get them from an O-ring supplier much cheaper(and a sight quicker than these lazy barstards)

I'll post a link later to a German site that explains in pictures how it all should look and also lists the size of the seals.

Basically it's just a case of cleaning the bits, replacing the O-rings and slapping grease all over everything again. The German site recommends using some specialist grease but I just used normal every day stuff. Now I know how easy it is to dismantle I can always plaster some more on at a later date.

 

[621Andy]

Reassembly is fairly straightforward but you do need to put some pressure on both sections of the stub ends once you've got everything in place(remembering the spacers!) so that the threaded bar screws into the other stub end.

End caps back on, then fight with the springs...

Now that the stand is Mr. Flopsy this requires some effort I found after much swearing that it was easier to hang both springs and the tag on the upper end, and then whilst supporting the stand with my foot, hook on the smaller spring from the lower end. This then holds the stand up such that you can then utilise your Mr. Atlas figure to hook on the big one. I'm sure the more dextrous of you could hook both on at the same time but this worked for me. It might be worth noting which way the open side of the spring end faces to make it easier to hook on if that makes sense

Anyway, once you've won the battle of the springs, the jobs jobbed

Here's a very short vid(complete with message 'bing' ) of the finished articule: https://youtu.be/pR3EFy4KhKA

 

[621Andy]

Linky to the German site: https://powerboxer.de/rahmen-verkleidung/192-hauptster-bei-4v-klappt-nicht-hoch