Tearing The Mistress's clothes off to give her a good seeing to!

Wust,

That's almost exactly what I've tried. The bearings have a double row ball race and are quite deep which means the segmented barrel expands and engages with the inner race before the lips on the end do.
Haven't given up yet...
 
Mcinlb/Ian

Both good shouts. I had thought of welding a hut on the race as well. Probably have to resort to that in the end. Let you know...

Fluff.
 
Wust,

That's almost exactly what I've tried. The bearings have a double row ball race and are quite deep which means the segmented barrel expands and engages with the inner race before the lips on the end do.
Haven't given up yet...

Perhaps we are talking at cross purposes, or maybe it's me, but my type of puller set up use the individual balls to remove the bearing.
When I've used the kit before, I had to displace the shield or steel thingy that keeps the balls apart, then using 2 pins pushed
between the balls, and rotated 90 degrees. The pin ends are threaded in to a bridge with a threaded bar. A suitable sized bar
then passes thro' the centre hole.
I have the feeling you know all this though!
Worth a try tho'.
 
Perhaps we are talking at cross purposes, or maybe it's me, but my type of puller set up use the individual balls to remove the bearing.
When I've used the kit before, I had to displace the shield or steel thingy that keeps the balls apart, then using 2 pins pushed
between the balls, and rotated 90 degrees. The pin ends are threaded in to a bridge with a threaded bar. A suitable sized bar
then passes thro' the centre hole.
I have the feeling you know all this though!
Worth a try tho'.

Actually I've remembered wrong! The pin ends grip on the inside groove of the outer race, not behind the balls.
Perhaps no help to you, as you said.
 
Why not take it to a local car/motorbike/engineering workshop that is likely to have the proper tool and ask them to do it, probably take a few minutes and just a few quid in the tea/coffee boat.:rolleyes:
 
Tried that to, Mike.

Sharp intake of breath, "not without damaging it, sir" comes the reply.

I may get it painted instead and save the trouble. I like things to be perfect and sometimes you just have to compromise.

Been on the XRR so far this week. Great fun despite the rain and shit…

F.
 
Shiny bits

Several shiny bits have been collected from the powder coaters in Wiveliscombe and Brian Davis the local body repairer at Exbridge. Because of the difficulty (read;- imposibility) of removing the swing arm bearings, unnecessarily in this case, I had the swing arm sprayed whilst the rest is powder coated. Very nice they look to.
The next thing will be new rubber to get the chassis rolling and the gearbox over to the menders near Salisbury.

The picture s poor but you can't be brilliant at everything:augie.
 

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Loving this thread, I had a carbed red 1100 sport back in the day, replaced with an early green V11 sport that I actually preferred in most ways (comfort, gearbox, lower gearing etc) but have to say these bikes just get more handsome with age!
Who is doing the gearbox near Salisbury Fluffy, I have a T3 that could do with some work - also given your location, surprised Black Dragon near Yeovil didn't get a look in?

Dave
 
Looking good so far F.B......:thumb

Following this thread with interest....I've never had a Guzzi, yet I'm becoming more and more attracted to them.....some really nice bikes on show in this section recently.....:)
 
FB doesn't know it yet but when he has finished he is going to sell me this bike, I just need to get to him over Christmas and bribe him with a bottle of vintage port - he is slowly walking into my trap....tee hee!:D
 
Dave,

Forgot all about them. I think he is the guy who supercharged a Tonti framed Guzzi years ago then did the same to a 600 Bandit that I saw run at Weston Zoyland aerodrome in the sprint racing there. The Guzzi was a beast. The 'charger ran in the region of 1/2 an atmosphere, if I remember right and sat between the cylinders belt driven off a pulley on the crank that also drove the alternator. If there was a way of fitting a blower on the Mistress I'd think about it, but the spine frame gets in the way. Ex RR apprentice I think.

Jonnie,

Thanks for the comment. Things mechanical have slowed up a bit of late. Dad's been in hospital over Xmas and is still there so been dashing back and forward a bit. Its also bloody cold in the garage and a mass of urgent/necessary tree felling has got in the way. Promise to get back to it shortly.


Mike,
:jes:jes:jes:jes:nono
 
Si,

You mean you have forgotten how you promised to let me have the mistress, it was after you had finished guzzling the vintage port:friday....tut tut what a short memory you have these days old chap. :D
 
Salutory lesson in mis-diagnosis.

Braved the Garage today and had a proper look at the gearbox output shaft and removed the front coupling. Despite being covered in grease the threads which pinch the coupling on to the output shaft splines were as tight as a tight thing and refused to budge but what I did find was the coupling loose on the splines and the "lift" in the output shaft bearing I thought I had found was infact axial play between the two components. Thank goodness for that!
The two pinchbolts shown in the pic had in fact siezed solid and the application of a bit of WD and some patience saw them come out OK. I can only assume that centrifical force threw the grease away from the bolt threads and the power washer did for the rest of what ever lube there was, if any.

So on the bench with the coupling and the treads were cleaned so the bolts ran in smoothly, coupling back on the shaft and the bolts done up (4kgm) with 1st gear engaged to stop the rotation and hey presto! no movement :D. Moral: don't jump to conclusions assuming the worst until all the evidence is gathered. We shall see if this has done the trick when she's finally road tested.
 

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Rear wheel bearings

In order to remove this disc side bearing (new one shown) the drive side bearing housing has to be taken off.
This is because you can't get enough purchase on the inner race edge to punch it out from the other side as is usually the case. I have a foot long 5/16 brass bar I keep especially for this job but the angle and distance between the bearings wouldn't allow it. So off the drive housing came, whack, whack, and out popped the old bearing.
In with the new and the housing replaced, torque up the bolts (4kgm) and all's ready to go back.
 

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New Rubber

New Conti rubber going on...

Fluff.
 

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Well, there's no need to put the beer in the fridge and that's a fact. Or bearings in the freezer for that matter. But tea seems hotter in the mug so there are compensations.
 


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