Techniques for replacing final drive oil?

Doofus

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Hi

I have a 2005 R1200GS at 22k miles. It has the "sealed for life" final drive.

I replaced the final drive oil myself at around 6k using the "drop swing arm fill through speed sensor technique". The final drive oil was changed again at 13k during dealer service.

I did the last service myself, but left the drive oil until the next tyre change. which is now.

However, the speed sensor bolt is stuck and the T25 head is buggered (thanks dealer service technician for that).

What are my options?

(1) Leave well alone, put on new tyre and ride off into the distance (it's sealed for life, right?)

(2) Try to drain and fill using a syringe and plastic tube through the factory fill hole at the rear?

(3) Try harder to remove speed sensor (e.g dremmel a screw driver slot in head) at risk of ending up worse off.

(4) Ask UKGS for ideas?

I reckon (4) is best.

thanks!
Darren
 
If you intend to keep the bike persevere with removing the stealer butchered bolt.

May be worth finding out how expensive the sensor is as you may end up damaging it during the process, plus if it is cheap enough it may be as easy to break it to help with removal.

Anything has got to be better than hoping the oil will last forever, we already know the "sealed for life" idea was a complete flop!
 
rashers quite right and i think you may have to risk the damage alternatively you could try to weld an old allen key to the bolt with an arc welder i have done this in the past to get out of trouble on other bikes.

if succesful you would only need a new bolt

The sealed for life concept is ridiculous anyway for a machine that could stomp over 100k miles

best of luck.
 
If you can prove the bolt was damaged by the dealer i'd let them replace it...
 
Mine did the same and I used some Snap-On easy out thingys. These are very short and actually work rather than the easy outs that are sold under that name. I just tapped it into the rounded off bit and as the hex head of the easy out is turned the splines dig in and out it pops. I replaced with a stainless allen head one. If I remember rightly my FD was changed at service by a BMW trained technician
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1262&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
I would start by removing the wheel, Than starting with a small drill just big enough to enter into the hole in the head of the bolt, gently drill into the head of the buggered bolt ...as it's recessed Torq the drill should self centre itself nicely.. Now you only need to drill in about 3/4mm just over the depth of the head of the bolt.
When you have done this use a drill 1mm larger & repeat the process.
Keep doing this until the head of the bolt falls off.

Once this has happened pull out the sensor, remembering there is an "O" ring sealing it. Then with a good pair of pliers grip the threaded section of the bolt still in the FD and rotate it steadily until it comes out.
 
super glue the allen bolt to the bolt instead of weld..
use a dremmel with great caution...
take the big gasket off to drain oil slowly...
Use a screwdriver and slowly knock it around...
Take it to engineers....
Or sell the bike.
 
Be very careful welding tools on to a bikes with computers on board. I had to weld an allan key onto a pinch bolt for the front axle on my R1100. I removed the ECU and the ABS computer before welding. Remember Long Way Down and their ABS!
 
Be very careful welding tools on to a bikes with computers on board. I had to weld an allan key onto a pinch bolt for the front axle on my R1100. I removed the ECU and the ABS computer before welding. Remember Long Way Down and their ABS!

Heard from the horses mouth when the BMW tech arrived to sort out their abs the only thing wrong was they'd missed out plugging on of the connectors back he plugged it in and all was well. Told to me by a BMW man.
 
I've welded bolts onto various fasteners in the past - always works. I think the heat tends to help loosen the fastener making it easier to get out anyway.

I've never removed the battery or ecu and its not caused any problems on a Kawasaki, a couple Ducatis and my 1150GS over the years.

If you really want to then removing the battery & ecu would make them pretty much immune from damage - unless you knock them off the workbench and step on them.
 
Hi

Thanks for all the suggetions - I persevered and got it out by dremmeling a notch st the rim and drifting it around - once it had gone 1/4 turn I could undo it with fingers. Replaced with stainless alternative.

Splines lubed and oil replaced, and I got he swing arm back up first try - last time took me literally 2 hours of wiggling before it went on.

As an aside, hopefully I have a "good" drive as there is essentially zero side to side play in the wheel (at least when cold - not checked when warm), and I could't see any metal shavings at all on the speed sensor magnet. Fingers crossed!

Darren
 
easy outs

Too late now but drilling a hole and using an easy-out always works for me.

I don`t ever claim to `know it all` but I qualify that suggestion with over 2 decades of engineering under my belt and running a manufacturing Company.

It`s always worth considering as are all the other suggestions but I am pleased you got it out.

:thumb2

Mark
www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk
www.cymarc.co.uk
 
rashers quite right and i think you may have to risk the damage alternatively you could try to weld an old allen key to the bolt with an arc welder i have done this in the past to get out of trouble on other bikes.

.

I would start by removing the wheel, Than starting with a small drill just big enough to enter into the hole in the head of the bolt, gently drill into the head of the buggered bolt ...as it's recessed Torq the drill should self centre itself nicely.. Now you only need to drill in about 3/4mm just over the depth of the head of the bolt.
When you have done this use a drill 1mm larger & repeat the process.
Keep doing this until the head of the bolt falls off.

.

Have you any idea of the size of the bolt concerned ? :D
 


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