That Montjuic of mine

So where were we?

The pistons and rings are now with Mike so he can get the barrels bored out.

The suspension guru phoned to tell me the fork bottoms go for satin black powder coating tomorrow, the emulators arrive sometime in the next couple of days as do new springs, the tubes are away being chromed/ground and due back this week and he’s going to set the emulators up for my weight, fast road use :D

The steering head bearings are fitted and adjusted as best they can be given that they don’t have fork legs in them.

Bars and clocks refitted, front master cylinder back in place, hose manifold fitted and the front brake hoses are swinging in the wind.

All being well I’ll get the wheels back tomorrow and probably fit the front brake calipers to the hoses then bleed them and cable toe them to the bottom yoke. If I do get the wheels I’ll leave fitting bearings etc for another day because I don’t want to peak too early.

Just seeing small things like the bars going back is good because it’s all progress :okay
 
More progress today.

I paid Mike a visit to pick up the head and barrel (now bored and honed) plus drop off a disc and carrier that somehow ended up with all my Ducati parts but neither of us know what the hell it’s off.

Anyway. Once home I lost another hour of my life filing piston ring gaps which is a truly detestable job involving constantly putting the rings into the barrels, check the gap with feeler gauges then file a bit more off. I now have 0.016” gaps on the second rings and 0.012” gaps on the top ones so all is well there.

After that I decided the way forward was to fit the inner circlips and bung the pistons into the barrels so I can drop the whole lot on as an assembly, fit the pins and outer circlips then it’s job done. I know a lot of people fit the pistons on the rods and then lower the barrel onto them but on a single or a twin I find it easier to fit pistons to barrels first.

69fab9a5eb35fffde5bbd20a17583b37.jpg


After that I had another look at the head and to be honest it’s a fucking mess. It’s had one new valve seat fitted but I only noticed today that one seat has been ground down miles more than it should. There’s also the small issue of two cracks going into the spark plug tapped hole (I knew about this before) which can either be ignored or welded and remachined. I’ve got new valve guides and as Mike pointed out, heating the head to change the guides could do all sorts of bad things to the cracks so I need to make some phone calls and have it done.

610704629da4f603e0b490152628f314.jpg



You can see the cracks on the left hand side as shown above and the deeper grinding on the seat top right of that plug hole. The one replacement seat is top left on the other side.

More confusing is that when you drop the valves in one sits about 1.5mm proud of the others! That’s a serious what the fuck moment but it can be removed and oversized, correctly ground seats fitted if I throw money at it.

3a654eaab7688e0a269fd294682da29f.jpg


Bottom right is the valve that sits proud compared to the others.

I hadn’t bothered looking too closely at how they seated when I stripped the head but even if I lap them in it’s a recipe for disaster so it needs fixing. It’ll be a pain in the arse because I’ll need all new shims but such is life, get on with it. I’ve got guides and seals, the valves look ok and aren’t bent but it’s obviously had a top end disaster at some point in its life and I don’t want it dropping a valve or a lump of cylinder head when I’m thrashing the life out of it.

Both plug holes have had helicoil inserts previously fitted and new ones are cheap so they’ll be replaced though one would have to go when it’s welded. I’m not even going to start to think about what this lot will cost me
 
That’s pretty grim Andy,
Although it’s not going to be cheap to fix properly at least when sorted you can be confident when you run it as intended :green gri
Rather than shitting it in case it drops a seat:comfort
 

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More progress today.

I paid Mike a visit to pick up the head and barrel (now bored and honed) plus drop off a disc and carrier that somehow ended up with all my Ducati parts but neither of us know what the hell it’s off.

Anyway. Once home I lost another hour of my life filing piston ring gaps which is a truly detestable job involving constantly putting the rings into the barrels, check the gap with feeler gauges then file a bit more off. I now have 0.016” gaps on the second rings and 0.012” gaps on the top ones so all is well there.

After that I decided the way forward was to fit the inner circlips and bung the pistons into the barrels so I can drop the whole lot on as an assembly, fit the pins and outer circlips then it’s job done. I know a lot of people fit the pistons on the rods and then lower the barrel onto them but on a single or a twin I find it easier to fit pistons to barrels first.

69fab9a5eb35fffde5bbd20a17583b37.jpg


After that I had another look at the head and to be honest it’s a fucking mess. It’s had one new valve seat fitted but I only noticed today that one seat has been ground down miles more than it should. There’s also the small issue of two cracks going into the spark plug tapped hole (I knew about this before) which can either be ignored or welded and remachined. I’ve got new valve guides and as Mike pointed out, heating the head to change the guides could do all sorts of bad things to the cracks so I need to make some phone calls and have it done.

610704629da4f603e0b490152628f314.jpg



You can see the cracks on the left hand side as shown above and the deeper grinding on the seat top right of that plug hole. The one replacement seat is top left on the other side.

More confusing is that when you drop the valves in one sits about 1.5mm proud of the others! That’s a serious what the fuck moment but it can be removed and oversized, correctly ground seats fitted if I throw money at it.

3a654eaab7688e0a269fd294682da29f.jpg


Bottom right is the valve that sits proud compared to the others.

I hadn’t bothered looking too closely at how they seated when I stripped the head but even if I lap them in it’s a recipe for disaster so it needs fixing. It’ll be a pain in the arse because I’ll need all new shims but such is life, get on with it. I’ve got guides and seals, the valves look ok and aren’t bent but it’s obviously had a top end disaster at some point in its life and I don’t want it dropping a valve or a lump of cylinder head when I’m thrashing the life out of it.

Both plug holes have had helicoil inserts previously fitted and new ones are cheap so they’ll be replaced though one would have to go when it’s welded. I’m not even going to start to think about what this lot will cost me

You would start a fire twirling the stick trying to grind that fucker in;:D; it looks like a compleate refurbishment including welding and remachining. Your going to have to sling some serious coin at it; it's an all most ;do i love it enough project.:beerjug:
 
I’m still taking baby steps forward and the barrels and pistons are now fitted along with the lower cam chain guide but that’s as far as I can go without a decent cylinder head so I tried a bloke who advertises himself as a Laverda specialist in Scotland and comes highly recommended but he doesn’t answer the phone or emails so that’s a non starter.

I know that the Slater bothers are retiring this year but thought it was worth phoning Richard and asking his advice because let’s be honest, he’s the main man for these bikes and what he doesn’t know isn’t worth knowing. He’s a star because he told me who they always sent jobs like this to but while they were still operating as a fully functioning Laverda specialist he’d never divulge who did his engine work. Understandable really.

Moving on I’ve now phoned the company who luckily for me are only in Kegworth so about 90 minutes away and they’ve said bring it up along with all the associated parts and they’ll do everything including making new seats, lapping the valves and if they have to they’ll grind the tops of the valve stems to get the clearances set right. I didn’t dare ask the price but it needs doing and they said go tomorrow and they’ll start almost straight away :okay

It’s not a massive job time wise and if I still had access to a machine shop I’d do it myself but I don’t have that luxury and if I can get someone recommended by Slaters to do it I’ll be a happy little Laverda owner :D
 
They’re only a single angle with a 2mm seating area so I’ll not start over complicating things. Unless this place I’m visiting tomorrow offers something that tempts me just that little bit too much :blast
 
The one thing that is keeping me motivated is that I’ll know with 100% certainty that it’s going to have a good engine, good suspension, good brakes and shock, horror, the electrics will be better than when it was built.

I reckon that this minor rebuild will have cost me around £2.5k and it’ll be worth it to have a bike that can truly be described as a ‘sorted’ Montjuic which it wasn’t before.
 
They’re only a single angle with a 2mm seating area so I’ll not start over complicating things. Unless this place I’m visiting tomorrow offers something that tempts me just that little bit too much :blast

You say this place is 90 minutes away. Write the day off, you WILL be there all day..;)
 
You could be right about it being a long visit :D

I had one of those serious oh fuck! moments when I was sorting out all the relevant parts to take with the cylinder head and in the bag with the valve stem seals were 4 small viton O rings that slip over 4 of the cylinder head/barrel studs and thought for a horrible moment that they might have had to go under the barrel but luckily they go between the head and barrel so I was saved because I wouldn’t want to go through the process of fitting pistons into barrels, lining the pistons up with the small ends then fitting pins and circlips again.
 
The latest on the debacle known as my Montjuic cylinder head repairs is that it’s stalled.

I was strongly advised not to use the place recommended by Slaters so I’ve been trying other options and hitting something of a brick wall. I’ve put a wanted request on the Laverda forum asking for either a complete cylinder head assembly or just a stripped down head, as long as it’s not cracked or twisted.

If I can’t get a replacement and can’t get this one repaired I’ll refit it, bung the bike back together then sell it. If it runs then great, I’ll get more for it but any buyer would be shown photos of the cylinder head damage and if they chose not to strip it that’s their problem.
 
Arrrgh! Bit of a disaster that, after getting so near and it’s looking great. There must be someone in old/classic bike fraternity who can repair that cylinder head, though I can understand your frustration and thinking just to get rid.

This guy? https://classic-motorbikes.net/the-cylinder-head-shop/

I’ll see how things progress on other fronts and give him a call so thanks for the link.

I don’t want to get rid of the bike but neither do I want it sitting with no cylinder head until one crops up but riding it with the doubt in my mind about it dropping a valve isn’t an option. I’ll not lose any money on it but the time spent would be wasted and that’d annoy me more than anything else.
 
Years ago someone I knew rated The Cylinder Head Shop, they do the valve guide liners, but I've never used them or seen their work. They seem to do alot though.
 
Have seen very mixed work quality from the cylinder head shop.
Valve seats are the one job that I struggle to recommend anyone.
Have seen them stuck in with loctite by so called specialists in the past.

That said I have seen some nice work done by this company.
https://www.hthoward.co.uk/engine-m...st-for-your-cylinder-head/valve-seat-inserts/

Also might be worth persevering with contacting Keith Nairn.
Good luck.
 
Well I’m back in the game again.

A very nice gentleman in Canada is selling me what appears to be a decent enough cylinder head for $400.

He says it’s off a spare engine that was a runner but because I’ve got new guides he’s suggesting fitting them. I’ll check the bores and if they’re in limit I’ll leave well alone because right now they’ll be true to the seats and I’ll just have to lap the valves in.

Shims will be the next issue but I can deal with that because I know who purchased every shim Slaters had 😀
 
Well I’m back in the game again.

A very nice gentleman in Canada is selling me what appears to be a decent enough cylinder head for $400.

He says it’s off a spare engine that was a runner but because I’ve got new guides he’s suggesting fitting them. I’ll check the bores and if they’re in limit I’ll leave well alone because right now they’ll be true to the seats and I’ll just have to lap the valves in.

Shims will be the next issue but I can deal with that because I know who purchased every shim Slaters had 😀

Great to hear Andy....I'm with Greenman14, this thing is well on it's way and you were starting to sound pissed off with the whole thing (that might be wrong but that's how it came across to me)...

Onwards and upwards.....:thumb2
 
Great to hear Andy....I'm with Greenman14, this thing is well on it's way and you were starting to sound pissed off with the whole thing (that might be wrong but that's how it came across to me)...

Onwards and upwards.....:thumb2

I only get pissed off when it looks like I’m up against a brick wall and to be honest, I was lucky with this cylinder head and hopefully it’ll be a good enough one to use.

I put both a technical question regarding repairs and a wanted ad on the Laverda forum and struck lucky. The guy says he’s only just decided to strip his spare engine because he’ll get more for the parts than a full engine and I’ve already had a pm from there asking if I’ll sell the old one to somebody who wants to fit big valves in a race engine and is happy to start with a cheaper one that needs some TLC.
 


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