The annoying 12 pin guage connector

[badmandan]

Hi, this is my first time for joining an online forum, out of somewhat desperation. I have a 1979 R80/7 that i have been customising for longer than i care to admit to. It was my first ever bike, so everything I have done to it is sympathetic to being able to turn it back to stock someday. It is kind of a cafe racer customisation and im planning to run a single speedo guage(off ex police bike) with warning lights for oil, charge etc in a custom display that i want to fabricate. As i want to return it to stock one day, cutting the 12 pin connector off to wire up new lights is kind of a last resort.

So does anyone have any ideas on how to go about it? Or has anyone done anything similar? I thought about trying to build up a circuit board and wire up to the existing connector with deutch pins. Having spent days reading up answers on various forums to every question i could ask google. I have found threads containing the layout of the pins(not sure yet which one suits mine). I am aware of the need for a led compatible relay for the indicators. And that i possibly need an inline resistor for the charge light.

Failing that, if anyone has a better idea, or can suggest an easy plug and play discreet guage to do the job. I am really open to all suggestions.

This is pretty much the last hurdle keeping me from my first ride, after achieving so much on the build i am really at a loose end. Oh by the way, im sure im not the first to say this. But i am in no way an auto electrician.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards Dan.

 

[mikeyboy]

I’ve got a box full of harnesses,
Mostly g/s and paraleverGS,
They would be perhaps a better simpler start point for a custom loom,saveing your /7 loom and fusebox.
I used to build bespoke looms ,but now use new g/s looms modified to suit my needs.
Your not far away,feel free to call by to discuss in more detail what you want to achieve
Oh,and by the way,
Moto gadget stuff is mostly shit, although very discreet it’s just too fiddly,
don’t be tempted to go down that route

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Hi Dan, welcome to the forum. You have old and bold and newbies here and a wealth of experience to draw from. I'm not sure where I fit in with all of that.

I've been looking at an R80/7 wiring loom a lot recently (in a restoration) and I think I can appreciate your issue. Some of the signals you want are available from the terminal board (TB) that would be inside the headlamp. The brake fail and oil pressure come straight to the multi-pin connector from the sensor; these are earth paths (the sensor earths the power that comes from the lamps).

Turn signal - Black/white from flasher relay. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Neutral - Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via Brown/black to TB.
High beam. Power from white wire from TB. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Illumination. Power from grey/black wire from TB. Earth via brown circuit.
Oil Pressure. Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via a line straight to sensor.
Charge. Power from green/black wire circuit. Connect to blue wire from voltage regulator - see below*
Brake fail. Power from green/black wire circuit. need to look out the correct colour wire but suspect you aren't needing that one.


* to the voltage regulator, usually via a female connector connected to a male in the loom. That male connector could be replaced with a duplicate and hotwired up to your new dash.

Hope this helps

Tim

 

[mikeyboy]

Hi Dan, welcome to the forum. You have old and bold and newbies here and a wealth of experience to draw from. I'm not sure where I fit in with all of that.

I've been looking at an R80/7 wiring loom a lot recently (in a restoration) and I think I can appreciate your issue. Some of the signals you want are available from the terminal board (TB) that would be inside the headlamp. The brake fail and oil pressure come straight to the multi-pin connector from the sensor; these are earth paths (the sensor earths the power that comes from the lamps).

Turn signal - Black/white from flasher relay. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Neutral - Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via Brown/black to TB.
High beam. Power from white wire from TB. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Illumination. Power from grey/black wire from TB. Earth via brown circuit.
Oil Pressure. Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via a line straight to sensor.
Charge. Power from green/black wire circuit. Connect to blue wire from voltage regulator - see below*
Brake fail. Power from green/black wire circuit. need to look out the correct colour wire but suspect you aren't needing that one.


* to the voltage regulator, usually via a female connector connected to a male in the loom. That male connector could be replaced with a duplicate and hotwired up to your new dash.

Hope this helps

Tim

Crikey,you spend too much time thinking
On a few bikes in the past,I’ve fitted later clocks and looms,simply because the early parts were,at that time ,unavailable.,
And ,added into the mix,late wiring is so much simpler.
Obviously this is no help if you want a bike that is period correct but,,,,,
That isn’t what the op is looking to achieve,
An R80 g/s or mono r80 loom is easily modified to suit a custom fit,even easier if replacement switchgear can be accommodated into the budget,pretty much plug and play,
And the oem wiring is unmodified so that the bike can be retrofitted with everything if so wanted.

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Crikey,you spend too much time thinking
On a few bikes in the past,I’ve fitted later clocks and looms,simply because the early parts were,at that time ,unavailable.,
And ,added into the mix,late wiring is so much simpler.
Obviously this is no help if you want a bike that is period correct but,,,,,
That isn’t what the op is looking to achieve,
An R80 g/s or mono r80 loom is easily modified to suit a custom fit,even easier if replacement switchgear can be accommodated into the budget,pretty much plug and play,
And the oem wiring is unmodified so that the bike can be retrofitted with everything if so wanted.

I read Dan’s message such that the multi-pin connector was still on the bike. It would be easier to remove the original loom and replace with a custom loom. But Dan isn’t an auto electrician. We’ll see…

My project had a more difficult problem to solve - this was easier!

 

[mikeyboy]

Hi Tim,
I was just suggesting removing the whole /7 loom as you probably well know they are overly complex.
I’ve got loads of gs looms with a bit of cutting and joining would suit a cafe racer far easier.

 

[badmandan]

I’ve got a box full of harnesses,
Mostly g/s and paraleverGS,
They would be perhaps a better simpler start point for a custom loom,saveing your /7 loom and fusebox.
I used to build bespoke looms ,but now use new g/s looms modified to suit my needs.
Your not far away,feel free to call by to discuss in more detail what you want to achieve
Oh,and by the way,
Moto gadget stuff is mostly shit, although very discreet it’s just too fiddly,
don’t be tempted to go down that route

If i can get away without taking my existing loom out I would prefer it. As you know it can be a time consuming job. But thanks for the suggestion, i will certainly bare it in mind. Where abouts are you?

 

[badmandan]

Hi Dan, welcome to the forum. You have old and bold and newbies here and a wealth of experience to draw from. I'm not sure where I fit in with all of that.

I've been looking at an R80/7 wiring loom a lot recently (in a restoration) and I think I can appreciate your issue. Some of the signals you want are available from the terminal board (TB) that would be inside the headlamp. The brake fail and oil pressure come straight to the multi-pin connector from the sensor; these are earth paths (the sensor earths the power that comes from the lamps).

Turn signal - Black/white from flasher relay. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Neutral - Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via Brown/black to TB.
High beam. Power from white wire from TB. Earth via brown wire circuit.
Illumination. Power from grey/black wire from TB. Earth via brown circuit.
Oil Pressure. Power from green/black wire circuit. Earth via a line straight to sensor.
Charge. Power from green/black wire circuit. Connect to blue wire from voltage regulator - see below*
Brake fail. Power from green/black wire circuit. need to look out the correct colour wire but suspect you aren't needing that one.


* to the voltage regulator, usually via a female connector connected to a male in the loom. That male connector could be replaced with a duplicate and hotwired up to your new dash.

Hope this helps

Tim

Thanks Tim, so are you saying i should be able to bypass the 12pin connector altogether and wire straight from the headlight? That sounds easier. I presume i could just tuck the 12 pin away under the tank if that is an option.

 

[Aidan1150]

Welcome along Dan. I'm sure Mikey will be able to help get you sorted.
We will of course be needing to see pictures of your bike though. We like pictures. Pictures are good.

 

[Gelandestrasse]

Thanks Tim, so are you saying i should be able to bypass the 12pin connector altogether and wire straight from the headlight? That sounds easier. I presume i could just tuck the 12 pin away under the tank if that is an option.

From the headlight and with a two or three dedicated wires to sensors/components, yes. Handlebar master cylinder?

 

[badmandan]

Welcome along Dan. I'm sure Mikey will be able to help get you sorted.
We will of course be needing to see pictures of your bike though. We like pictures. Pictures are good.

Thanks for the welcome. I will get some photos, taken at some point and upload them. Its been a long time since I have shown anything on social media or anywhere else. I think that its possibly not to everyones tastes. Back when I first started it, bmw custom builds were nowhere near as common as they are now.

 

[badmandan]

From the headlight and with a two or three dedicated wires to sensors/components, yes. Handlebar master cylinder?

No its under the tank unfortunately. Possibly might look into handlebar at some point. But just want to get it back on the road first.

 

[Gelandestrasse]

No its under the tank unfortunately. Possibly might look into handlebar at some point. But just want to get it back on the road first.

They are fine if you keep an eye on them. And make sure they are adjusted so the brakes release properly.

The colour of the wire down to the brake float switch is brown/blue. The float switch then earths the signal when fluid low. You will need to run a wire from your dash to it to replace the brown/blue as it doesn't go via the headlamp.

 

[chablis]

Hi welcome to the forum.

If i can get away without taking my existing loom out I would prefer it. As you know it can be a time consuming job. But thanks for the suggestion, i will certainly bare it in mind. Where abouts are you?

If you click on the Overland bit under his avatar picture it takes you to a map`.

He is very experienced in old beemers, so take his advice, he knows what he is talking about.

 

[badmandan]

Thanks again Tim. Hopefully I'm going to get some time over the weekend to start mocking up a warning light display and looking at getting somewhere with it.