The School Run (Santiago de Compostella)

steve1

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August 2009 the Mrs requires transport to university. Being an agreeable type of guy i offer to take her on the bike- here is our story.

We decided to take the ferry from Portsmouth to Santander. The ferry was due to leave at 3, we live in Stockport so we had an early start.

Did i mention that it was a camping trip? Once the Mrs was at uni she would have a room and i would be on my own.

We loaded the bike (Far to much in my opinion, but she said the straighteners were an essential piece of kit) and set of at 6:15.

I took off the top box and replaced it with a 90 litre stuff sack bungeed to the rack, i also had a double givi tank bank. With a full tank and 2up the bike was bloody heavy.
 

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The M56 link road was closed so i headed for Knutsford through the lanes and picked up the M6 at Sandbach. The traffic on the M6 was mental- but i had expected it so i shouldn't moan. Around 9 we hit Warwick services and decided to have a coffee. I stayed with the bike and sent the Mrs off hunter gathering.
 

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We arrived at Portsmouth around 11:30. I realise that the ferry actually leaves at 5 not 3 ( Tell the Mrs that i factored in an extra 2 hours for any unexpecteds- in fact I cocked up on the the time) I explain to SWMBO that its better to be early than late with ferries and we settle down for a pub lunch. I cant remember the name of the pub but its next door to a huge Morrisons in Portsmouth.

After a very leisurely lunch we decide to amble over to the ferry terminal, after all it says on the ticket that it opens really early.

2:15 we are 3rd in the queue in the motorbike lane. The weather is fantastic, take off my jacket and try to chat to the Spanish couple in front who are returning home from Donnington GP. Mrs does much better- she speaks the lingo.
 

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Its a small world! Fellow tossers turn up 2 x 1200, 1 x 1150, and 1 x 800. There is much bike gazing and travel plan swapping. Turns out their headed for the sun in the south of Spain- Im not sure there'll be much sun where we're going. Several posters had pre warned me to pack my umbrella, Santiago de Compostela is affectionatly refered to, by those in the know, as God's urinal!
Soon we're boarding the ferry, its a little disconcerting riding down a steep ramp which takes us BELOW the water line. We ride down to deck 2 and pull a sharp u turn into a cul de sac at the front of the ship. This is not for the faint hearted, the bike is heavy the deck has oil on it and there are numerous anchor points to avoid. Some of the other riders on big harleys struggle to make the turn and are forced to do a couple of shunts. A member of the crew, (French I think?) signals for me to ride between two cables - Surely he doesnt want me to go into that gap? I look around and everyones putting their bikes onto side stands. I follow suit and my bike is strapped down to the deck.The car decks are really filling up, space is at a premium and theyre parked very close together. Mrs complains about the heat and the smell, she says the car deck reminds her of wet dogs so we quickly unhitch the stuffsack and the tankbag and were off to find our cabin on deck 5. I wanted to take some pictures on the car deck but its such a rushed affair and the atmosphere is stiffling it was just good to get off.
We unhitch the tank bag and stuff sac and head off to find our cabin.
 
We dump the gear in the cabin, quick change and then onto deck. Suddenly we are moving, its a very strange sensation. Both of us began to feel a bit weird, not sick just a bit weird. We both decided to take some travel sickness pills, i took the added precaution of drinking lots of 1664. It works! not sure if was the pills or the beer (or a mixture of both)
We spend the rest of the day exploring the ship, looking at the sea and drinking alcohol.

To be fair there is quite a lot to do on the boat if you are that way inclinded. We ate at the "Belle Anglaise" - the standard restaurent- the food was OK and the prices were resonable. The French staff were a bit off hand but thats the French.
 

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We tried to have drinks at the pointy end of the ship but the wind was way too strong. This Pont Aven ferry really moves!
 

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Soon its bedtime and after an interesting night on bunkbeds its Wednesday. Both of us haven't slept too well. The sea has been relativley calm but the gentle rocking motion of the boat and the constant whine of the engines gets into your head!

Shower, breakfast then wander around the ship.

Were running around 40 minutes late, we find out later from other passengers that the ferry circled some wreckage during the night which accounts for the extra time.

We soon sight land and were back to the cabin to get into our bike gear and collect our bags.
My first mistake was to listen to tannoy announcments and follow instructions. We were still at reception on deck 5 an hour after docking. The tannoy had announced that deck two was not yet open. We went down anyway and found we were one of the last. The deck was beggining to clear as we were rushing to load the bike and get sorted. The heat and exhaust fumes were overwhelming and i was pleased in a way that we were late getting down there. I was holding others up and so we just jumped on the bike not really set up properly. We had to back up and then turn up the steep ramp. Behind me and to my right an old XL dumped about half a litre of oil onto the already slippery car deck. I warned as many other riders as possible and had to be careful myself not to put a foot in it. I thought this was a poorly organised exit. Everyone rushing, fully loaded on a slippery car deck. I followed the XL up the ramp keeping to his left, he was still leaving a trail of oil and his exhuast fumes were blue.
Suddenly were out into 27degrees, bright sunshine and fresh air.
A man with a gun checks our passports and then were out into rush hour Santander traffic. I was crapping myself, these Spaniards drive too close!

We need petrol and im not happy with the setup of the bike so i pull in to Carefour. I park up the bike and we sort ourselves out. There is a petrol station across the dual carriageway but im not sure how to get to it.
With the bike properly loaded and petrol warning light glaring at me i eventually make it to the petrol station. After filling up i set the first campsite into the sat nav. Its getting late and i dont want to ride in the dark so we're off at a brisk pace to Virgen Del Mar. The satnav dumps us in the centre of a village and the Mrs gets directions from one of the locals. Its just getting dark as we head into the camp. We follow the receptionist (who is heaviley pregnant) on a mobility scooter to our pitch.
I quickly erect the tent whilst SWMBO nips off to the shop for water, coffee and milk (the 3 essentials for camping)
Tent up, changed- into the bar for lots of cruzcampo (SWMBO-vodka & Coke). Chappy behind the bar rustles up a couple of cheese and tomatoe bocadillos- very nice. Back to the tent a little worse for wear-Sleep.
 

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Thursday 30 July 2009
Woken in the early hours by mosquitos buzzing around the tent. (Thousands of the little blighters.) Also could hear a large cat purring, this is just like being at home?? Turns out to be a bloke in the next tent with a sort of pleasant purr/snore thing going on.

Up at 6 sky is overcast but very hot and humid. Time to check out the facilities very basic, ive seen better but ive also seen much worse, cant complain for 20euros

After coffee on the trangia we head west on E70 ( i think) Decide to look for a campsite when my arse starts aching. The Mrs needs to be in Santiago for Saturday which leaves plenty of time for a leisurely ride along the coast.
Stop at colunge for breakfast/lunch- cafe con leche y tortilla de patatas- muy bien.
With the weather turning brighter we were straight back onto the autovia to get some more KMs in.
 

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The views along the costa verde are spectacular. Spanish roadbuilders seem much more daring than British and build spectacular tunnels and viaducts in almost impossible places.
Around the 200mile mark SWMBO starts getting fidgity and we decide to look for the nearest campsite we find one at Playa de Tapia at around 4:30 spanish time.
What a find excellent pitches, cheap beer, nice people and lovely beaches. All this with sunshine thrown in for good measure.

We set up camp, change into shorts and t shirts and make our way down to the beach.
 

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we watch the nutters surfing amongst the rocks.
 

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I noticed a couple of locals with their jubblies out, i think at least one of them was female. Why do i feel embarrassed? I can't help but look even though she's a bulldog. At this point i think i should point out that it would have been a bridge too far to have taken pics ( and i didnt have my wide angle lens) so sorry guys.
Back from the beach help the mrs up a steep path, the sun is still burning us at 9:00 spanish time.
 

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On the way back to camp we notice a sign which, if the woman on the beach was anything to go by, highlights high levels of canine illiteracy.
 

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Back to base for a couple of beers in the cafe. Mrs grabs some cheese, wine and bread from the shop for t.
Sitting in the sun with the woman i love- queso manchego butties and wine (tastes like paintstripper- what do you expect at 1.10euro a bottle??) for tea, with coffee courtesey of the trangia. Recurring theme this cheese thing.
 

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Friday 31 7 09 -Playa de Tapia
Up at around 7 Spanish time - thought it had rained during the night, but no it was a very heavy dew. The sun is beggining to shine the gaps in the enourmous hedge, all is quiet apart from the sea crashing into the rocks in the bay. Been scratching all night- bloody mosquito bites from Santander- dont seem to be any around here.
The tents performing well which is more than i can say for my sleeping kit. I went for the low weight version of everything. I bought a gelert 'camper' and 3cm self inflating mat mainly due to the weight saving- its crap. Im in Spain and im cold and uncomfortable at night. I persuade the mrs that we should share and put my bag on the bottom and hers on top - reluctantly she agrees. This results in a net heat gain for me and unfortunately a loss for her. She has a better mat 5cm self inflating- its amazing how much difference the extra 2cm makes!

Tent is a Vango tempest 300 - 3man with a porch- quick to erect and keeps out mozzies if you are strict with the door!

I looked at the two man version but decided that the extra space of the three manner was worth the small increase in weight. I think it cost around 100squids on offer from go outdoors.

Still friday morning-
Fire up the trangia and first coffee of the day- notice a kitkat chunky in the bag and breakfast is complete! Check out the facilities on the site- Fantastic- clean modern bright and well maintained- would recommend this site to anyone. Decide to have a shower whilst the sun dries the dew on the tent.

Need to start heading South today Santiago de Compostela looks to be aroun 150 miles away, however the roads dont look as fast on the map.

12:00 Spanish time we're all packed up and ready to go - pay the nice lady 20euros (bargain) and we're off.

About a mile down the road we come across a repsol garage, i dont desperately require fuel but i fill up anyway, not sure how often i will come across fill stations so ive decided to fill whenever possible.

The run starts well, minimal traffic, good two lane dual carriageway which switches to 3 lanes on hills for overtaking. The GS is performing beautifully, it does everthing i ask of it. Realistically i'm probably overladen but the bikes coping well- just keep an eye on those stopping distances.
As we continue the run we pass lots of timber waggons carrying loads of freshy cut pine- smells wonderful.

After about an hour we pull in for a coffee at a truckstop. I park the bike while the mrs goes in and interacts with the locals. We sit on the terrace and watch the bike as numerous truckers arrive- the parking area soon fills, seems like we got here just in time, looks like its break time.

I could have easily sat there for hours basking in the sunshine watching the world go by but the Mrs is motivated and wants to get a move on so after 20 minutes we're off again.
 

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Back onto fast dual carriageway, this road is so new the sat nav has no idea where we are! The coast is on my right and we are running almost parallel Westwards. Most of the roadsigns are still covered in plastic and there are spaces cut into forest clearings for services yet to be built (Shit i hope this road is open!)
I knew this couldnt last, the beautiful road ends and the sat nav stops moaning as we join the crappy worn out coast road. There are lots of warnings about ice, rockfalls and bambi but didnt come across any (thank goodness).

Our average speed has dropped drastically as we meander through unknown villages which seem lost in a time of their own. Impatient Spaniards do their best to cheat death as they tailgate and overtake on blind bends- all for the sake of one car space- nutters!

We seem to be constantly climbing as the road bends impossibly left then right ( Im sure i should meet myself coming the other way on some of these bends - almost like roundabouts). The air becomes cooler as we continue to climb. Ive been riding with no gloves, my jacket open and just a tee shirt (trousers obviously- but bare feet!) which has now ridden up and is resting attractively on my six pack (crate). I get the mrs to perform a delicate manouvere and relocate the errant clothing whilst still on the move ( I think that may count as motorbike sex).

The road switches back to dual carriageway and becomes better as we approch the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela. The traffic gets heavier and they are all nutters. The sky quickly turns overcast and soon we are riding through drizzle.

We come to our first toll of the trip. I pick up a ticket and of we go, the signs tell us immediatly to change autovias. I have learned to ignore the sat nav and trust my own mapreading instincts. This can be difficult with a double tank bag as the map is directly under my nose and its difficult to focus on at such a close range ( should've gone to specsavers- i know). I think i've got away without paying the toll when suddenly ther'res booths ahead. 4.90 euro for about 20 miles (i thought that was quite reasonable)

Onward to Santiago de Compoastela, its 2:45 Spanish time and the rain has died down. The Sat Nav leads us through mental traffic to As Cancales campsite.
As Cancales campsite is the closest i could find to the centre of town, however its still a fair old jaunt.
The site is basically a forest on the side of an unfeasably steep hill. So steep in fact that they have had to cut individual terraces for each pitch.

I leave the bike a reception and survey the site as SWMBO impresses the staff with her extensive language skills.

OMG this is a steep site, i can only just walk up it! On a scale of 1 - 10 this easily pulls a 15! How the f*ck did they get those motorhomes up there?

Mrs comes out of reception and points skywards. Theyve given us the high ground presumably because we're on a bike.

We look on as car after car spins their wheels attempting in vain to conquer the gradient.

I explain diplomatically to the Mrs that she will have to walk up to the pitch because the bike will never do it 2up!

The mrs starts her lone ascent as i perpare foe blast off. I position the bike outside the camp across the road so as to get the maximum possible run at the hill.

Wait while the road clears then i'm off 1st gear all the way, stood on the pegs, chest on the tankbag and leaning as far over the bars as poss to stop the front end wheelieing.

Theres more- The ascent becomes more interesting as i pass the Mrs. I realise there are two serious switchbacks to negotiate, keep outta my way, comin through, i cant stop on this gradient i'll never hold the bike. I come to rest at the top ofthe site opposite our pitch. From this vantage point i believe i can see our house back in blighty!

After much jiggery pokery i manage to get the bike onto our pitch facing outwards and pitch the tent alonside. Its a bit tight but will have to do.
Then its a quick change and down to the bar for refreshments-
I opt for a large cruzcampo and an enourmous cheese sandwich - Mrs has the same but with coffee (That is, not with the beer)
 

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Rain and Fireworks

Its still Friday- the last day of July and as the Mrs doesn't need to be in University until tommorow afternoon we decide to explore Santiago de Compostela on foot. Around 4 Spanish time we leave the bar and head off for the town. Not really sure where the town is? Just as we're exiting the camp we start to feel a few spots of rain. Better safe than sorry i decide to leggit back to the tent and grab a couple of those pack away mac thingys (used to be called Kagools when i was a kid) By the time i get back down to the Mrs the rain has intensified and we quicly put on our fashionable rainwear!

At the bottom of the hill outside the camp we are faced with our first decision, left or right? Fortunately from this vantage point Santiago is set out in front of us more or less like a life sized map. We stand for a while looking across the city and tracing the route of the main roads. The rain gets harder as a huge firework explodes waking us both up. What was that all about? We decide to go right and follow the street down to a roundabout.

When i'm out and about i aways make a point of looking back at my route and highlighting any landmarks so we can find our way back to base. The roundabout was an excellent landmark it had a drive through macdonalds close by and was a good place to get your bearings.

The sky continued to get darker and the rain kept on pouring- there was a huge cloud hanging over Santiago.
 

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Mcdonalds at the roundabout - Landmark!

The mist covered grey city of Santiago de Compostela reminds us a lot of Manchester (But without the litter)
 

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