Throttle Body Repair

[Disaster Area]

Hi all,

My right hand throttle body has the ticking noise that lots of people have mentioned. My questions are these: What exactly causes it and does anyone have the dimensions of that part?

I've got access to a machine shop and a friendly machinist so I wondered if I could fabricate a new part.

Just a thought - thanks for any input.

DA

 

[turnipbmw]

I seem to have lost the details of this but there is a website showing that its usually the pin that the butterfly is mounted on.
It wears badly where it runs in the throttle body.

I would have thought the body would wear first and was thinking of having a phospher bronze bush knocked up at work.

The pin is available, but throttle bodys are quite cheaply available second hand now (E bay £10-20)

Will post website details when I find them (if no one else does first)

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

Hi all,

My right hand throttle body has the ticking noise that lots of people have mentioned. My questions are these: What exactly causes it and does anyone have the dimensions of that part?

I've got access to a machine shop and a friendly machinist so I wondered if I could fabricate a new part.

Just a thought - thanks for any input.

DA

Before you go pulling it to pieces make sure your throttle bodies are balanced, my 1100 has the ticking from the right body and I know it's a balance issue that is causing the annoying noise.

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Are you sure it's TBs?

Check if camchain doesn't do any noises, sometimes it can make a ticking noise on a crank case too making you think it comes somewhere throttle-body. Worn or old design camchain tensioner is a common issue on most of boxers.

As Paul G said - also check your balance. Before you do that tighten all the clamps on both sides of throttle bodies - sometimes when not tightened for a long time they can suck additional air in, foxing up your fuel mixture and balance as a result.

And also check the rubber seal part of throttle bodies that attach it to the cylinder. If the rubber is old and has lot of cracks, you ought to replace it (it may also suck additional air in creating unbalance). Good test is to spray WD-40 on all those parts while the engine is working, when the bike starts to smoke from exhaust means it sucks the oil in

 

[Womble]

If all else fails, have a look for a 'ticker killer'

 

[Tony T]

I Fitted a "Ticker Killer!"

I had play in my right-hand throttle body shaft, so thought I would save some money and fit a "Ticker Killer" from Boxer Design of Germany.
This involves prising off the shiny cap on the outboard side of the throttle body, then glueing the brass "ticker killer" onto the body and screwing in the adjuster until the rattle stops..........
Sounds simple.
When you prise off the cap you see that the shaft has a circlip on it to prevent sideways movement and the shaft passes through a bush in the throttle body. The ticker-killer puts pressure on the end of the shaft until the throttle butterfly touches the inner body making it "seem" that you have fixed the problem. What you have actually done is to make it hard to balance because the butterfly is hard-up against one side, and probably slowed the opening and closing of the butterfly.
The wear is lateral and you are "fixing" it with longitudinal pressure.
Once you have taken off the cap you cannot put it back on ( I had to stick a screwdriver through it), but I wish I had left well alone.
The only way to properly cure it is to re-bush the shaft and fit a new sealed cap, if that is possible.
I hope this makes sense? The "Ticker-Killer" only masks the problem in my eyes.

 

[turnipbmw]

found it.

www.largiader.com/tech/tb

I found a Bing phone number 1-800-309-2464 (USA)

repair kit is approx $60 (US)

 

[jimcg]

Just purchased full rebuild kits from Bing @ $191.78 including $31.75 shipping. Which I was disapointed to discover did not include the spindles. They arrived within a couple of weeks or so. You then get hit with £ 15.76 for VAT and a further £8.00 "Parcel force Clearance fee" . Have still to get around to pulling them apart as I have the horrible feeling that I will have to go back and order the spindles so relying on ear plugs to drown out the rattling on cold start up.

 

[ciderman gs]

just a thought could it be the chain tensioner as you say it only rattles on cold start up

 

[turnipbmw]

The wear on my old ones could easily be felt - quite a large amount of movement - did sound like a big end !

managed to get a complete 1150 RT engine/gearbox/electrics with 7000 miles off E bay for £220. So first off all, I fitted the throttle bodies - nice and quiet but still the cam chain rattle on start up.

Eventually I changed the whole lot just for a laugh - quiet for about 20,000 then the cam chain rattle started again.

Would have fitted the later tensioners but have now bought an '05 1150ADV
and given old bike to my brother.

Will be interesting to see if this stays quiet !

note ; bike always ran fine so I guess it doesn't really matter.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Couple of low mileage beasties HERE

 

[Arbreacames]

The TB shafts may wear out but sometimes the bushings are the culprits. Bing says that if the bushings are worn, the TBs must be replaced. However, our clever transalpine friends in Quellidellelica.com have identified the bushing types and have shown how to replace them:
http://www.quellidellelica.com/vbforum/showthread.php5?t=108562&page=2

The bushings are of two lengths: 9mm and 12mm. The 12mm are marked 812 DUM 0A and can be shortened to 9mm. They can be found in bearing catalogs like this one: http://www.ggbearings.com/products-detail.asp?MaterialID=1&Group=1

Here is the short version:

Removing the axle cap:

Removing the axle and seals:

Extracting a bushing:

The whole story (in Italian) is here:
http://xoomer.alice.it/faqqde/FAQ/CorpiFarfallatiTicchettioR1100-1150.pdf