Tuesday 13th September 2022
I wake after a good night's sleep to a beautiful sunny morning. I did most of my packing last night, so - after a quick shower and shave - I'm setting off into the morning sunshine, being guided by Betty towards Monterey...
I stop and buy a litre/quart of 20/50 Dino oil at an AutoZone store, and fill the bike in their parking lot. After running the engine for a minute or so, I am pleased to see the sight glass is now right at the top, with just a bit of air showing.
Betty steers me onto the freeway for about three miles, but this soon becomes the two-lane Pacific Coast Highway I am expecting...
I can see that there's a fog bank out to sea, but the coast seems to be clear...
As a morning ride - I recommend it...
There's a light onshore breeze, and the temperature is in the low 80sF...
I'm noticing it is becoming difficult to change gears up. Looking down at the footrest, it's clear that the sidestand is not fully retracted, and is fouling on the footrest assembly...
I had noticed that the bike seemed to be leant over a long way when I stopped at AutoZone, but put it down to an uneven bit of tarmac. It took quite a heave to get the bike upright, rather than the flex of the legs and hips it usually takes. I'll have to take some pics later to see if I can work out what is going on.
The sidestand is a weak point on both the Adv and the GS Lite. The lean angle is quite low from new and - because of bad design - gets worse as the threads in the pivot bolt crush over time. A favourite mod for the GS Lite is to fit an Adv sidestand, as it is longer. I have lengthened my Adv's sidestand by screwing an ice hockey puck to the base.
This problem seems different, somehow, though. More later...
Here I am missing being at work...
Oh no! Hills and Curves for the next 40 miles...
The weather is perfect and the road sublime...
Even my right eye feels better - it's just a bit uncomfortable putting my helmet on and taking it off...
I am, however, feeling a bit peckish, and I'm on the lookout for a café...
Pretty soon I spot...
...the Big Sur River Inn...
I have a vague memory of eating here once before - during my 2004 trip...
...and my table on the veranda is very familiar. It's a lovely, peaceful spot...
I meet Lolly, a Golden Retriever / Poodle Cross - imagine, a retriever that doesn't shed...
I order Huevos Rancheros, with chorizo and sour dough toast...
In common with much Mexican food, it appears to have hit the plate at high velocity...
As soon as my food arrives, so do a pair of Blue Jays - I can remember this from my last visit, when they were stealing the sachets of sugar from the bowls on the table. I note that the owners have scotched this by putting them in mini Kilner jars...
It is an excellent meal, but the price was extortionate - over $30...
I go back out to the bike and have a
major heave to get it up off the sidestand
.
I'll need to address this today. I resolve to choose 'up camber' spots to stop at in the meantime. The last thing I need is for this to go over whilst fully laden...
I ride on south, and almost immediately come across another store and café - this one on the left side of the road, with this beauty parked in front of it...
Isn't that gorgeous?
Onward!
Heading off back onto the PCH, I notice that the onshore breeze has started to blow part of the fogbank ashore...
Weirdly, it rolls off the ocean and up the hill, but leaves the road clear - I have just about perfect visibility in front, but none at all of the Pacific to my right...
Occasionally it will clear - and you get a good view of what you're missing...
...but the day has definitely got greyer...
There's also some type of cycling time trial or race taking place on the PCH. I pass
hundreds of cyclists over the next hour and a half. This normally wouldn’t be a problem, but for the clutch of SUVs and vans ahead of me. Their automatic reaction on seeing a cyclist is to brake hard (no matter how slow they were already going), causing everyone following to do the same, then move over the double-yellow central lines to pass.
I tell you; it became
bloody tedious...
The PCH is almost entirely restricted by double yellow lines. In the end I decided to treat these as advisory and, one and two at a time, I overtook all the vehicles. I'm convinced the van at the front was a safety vehicle for the riders or something, but had - wisely - decided not to put any markings up saying this...
The ride then became fun again.
We came to the end of the hilly area and the road dropped down to just above sea level. The fog had meant I'd not been able to get to Big Sur or Julia Pfeiffer State Park. Hey-ho...
The fuel light came on when I was about 16 miles out from Cambria...
...which is fine - I'll fill up there before setting off for my hotel in Paso Robles, about half an hour further on...
There are a couple of spots along here where you can stop and see Elephant Seals - I did so last time I was here. Today, however, the pull-outs were rammed with vehicles and people were queuing up to get to the viewing point, so I gave it a miss without regret...
I fill up with Supreme at a Shell station in Cambria - at a new record of $6 per gallon...
Once again, I had to heave the bike upright. Never mind, Betty tells me we'll be at the hotel at about 1330...
Not before taking a pic of this little beauty, though...
...and, just over the road, another one...
Betty now turns me east toward Paso Robles, where I have a room booked at the Melody Ranch Motel...
The road carries me up into soft rolling hills - virtually no traffic and a great surface...
In no time I've been checked into my old, but functional room, with an asthmatic AC doing its best to cool me down from the 88F temperature outside.
I take some pics of the sidestand, trying to work out what has failed, but they're not too much help. I have a chat with Jorge and he suggests getting more pics when the temperature drops a bit.
Which is what I'm going to do now...