Timing cover removal

[Roymondo]

I'm going to need to remove my timing cover in order to extract the stump of a sheared-off cover bolt

Had a look in the Haynes book and it goes on about replacing the crankshaft oil seal, with a special tool required. It also mentions a TDC locking pin (special tool) to lock the motor. TBH it's all starting to sound like it might be a bit beyond me. Has anyone done this work and can comment on the ease (or otherwise) of doing it?

 

[Bendy toy]

Its not that bad. The oil seal costs about £5 and you use the old seal to tap the new one into place. A press would be ideal but its no biggie.

Buy a new oil seal and some Loctite 518 gasket sealant.

Drain the oil.

Take off the belt cover. Put bike on side stand in top gear. Use a 33mm socket on the crank pulley nut.
Either get a friend to hold the back brake so you can heave on the crank nut. Or using a sliding T bar, take up the slack anticlockwise and and hit it loose with a lump hammer. The sudden shock will loosen the nut.

For refitting you will need help with someone's foot on the brake so you can get the correct torque setting.

If the paint is failing get it dipped then either etch prime and paint or have it powder coated.

Its likely the two M5 screws at the top holding the back belt cover will be seized. Mine just sheared straight off. I drilled them out and tapped M6.

I used copper anti seize paste on A4 stainless screws to avoid them seizing next time.

I also filled up the Vee at the bottom of the belt cover with anti seize paste. My corrosion seems to have started around that screw.

The Loctite 518 cures only in the joint so wont flake off and potentially clog oil galleries as silicone can do.

 

[robbie boy]

Fantastic piece of information, perfectly explained, eases the potential horror
of the dreaded oil seal issue, well done that gentleman.

 

[Roymondo]

Excellent post, Bendy. One query though - you say the pulley nut is 33mm. I've seen it stated elsewhere that it's 34mm?

Just trying to get my shopping list in order before I start work.

 

[Bendy toy]

You could be right and 34mm is more a typical even number. But my 33mm sockets fits it snugly so I assumed a is a 33.
If you get a single hex socket in 34mm it won't matter.

 

[Bendy toy]

Oil seal leaking

For anyone with "just" a failed oil seal, the Haynes method with self tapping screws will work to get the old seal out. It's described in the gearbox section.

 

[Roymondo]

Hmm. Having read some of the other on-line mentions of this tool/job, it appears that 33mm is the correct size, but as you say 34mm fits well enough (for simply turning the engine/fitting the drive belt at any rate). Applying the full 140Nm+ to undo the nut and re-tighten might be a different matter...

I already have 32mm and 34mm combo spanners, but the largest socket in my toolbox is only 27mm. I think a visit to the tool shop (always a good thing) is called for

Thanks again for your input.