To Lube or not to Lube.

[delpel]

Whats the general concensus regarding putting some lube in the throttle cable splitter box.

I am about to replace all the cables (Throttle, choke and 2 small throttle body cables) on my 2003 R1150GS which has stood untouched for 18 months. I know it's a bit of a pigs ear to do.

Anybody got any top tips.

My R1100S is nearly 3 years old, lives in hot and dusty conditions and is fine on the choke/revs increase front (probably cursed myself now )

So what do you guys reckon.

TTFN and enjoy the weather where ever you are

Derek

 

[littleredrooster]

They're all self-lubricating nylon bits in there. Oil would only get dust sticking to it and cause all kinds of problems. Best to leave it dry, IMO.

P.S. It's a tw4t of a job. Gimme a shout if you get stuck, 'cos I did mine recently.

 

[delpel]

Dude,

Do you need to lift the ABS/Servo/Battery cage up and out of the way to pull the splitter box out? Also what about the rubber breather hose?

I gather it's all a bit tight down there?

Regards

Del

 

[ianboydsnr]

dont use oil, it will swell the nylon, use a dry lube containing silicon

 

[finglonga]

Dude,

Do you need to lift the ABS/Servo/Battery cage up and out of the way to pull the splitter box out? Also what about the rubber breather hose?

I gather it's all a bit tight down there?

Regards

Del

This is a Godsend , Thanks to Mike O.

 

[littleredrooster]

Dude,

Do you need to lift the ABS/Servo/Battery cage up and out of the way to pull the splitter box out? Also what about the rubber breather hose?

I gather it's all a bit tight down there?

Regards

Del

No, you can leave everything as it is. You need to compress (? - I'm sure it needs to go downwards?) the breather hose with your thumb whilst you press the retaining clip down to release the splitter box.
Disconnect all cables before you do this. It is effing tight, though, and the breather hose is a pain to compress!!

 

[delpel]

OK I've only gone and done it. Yes your right chaps, it was a bitch.

Managed to get the bugger out and nearly lost the little C-clip holding the wheel on the shaft. Found that with my magnetic retreival tool deep down in the depths of the frame

Then I put it all back together and nothing moved. I could have cried. Bearing in mind it's 30DegC in my garage and I was sweating my tits off.
I found that I had pushed the splitter box to far over to the left. By wiggling it back it all freed up and now the throttle snaps back beautifully. :dance

The only problem is that the bloody fast idle still does not release when you push the lever back. You need to open the throttle and close it again before the slack is taken up in the cable again.

Any ideas chaps. I don't want to pull it all apart again.

Tomorrow I start the engine again and do a throttle sync.

TTFN and cheers for the words of wisdom.

Derek

 

[BiG DoM]

Dry lube definately - others will collect gunge. Good product is Dry Glide (Dupont I think) ...otherwise a dry graphite powder as used on locks.
Will probably find the 'choke' cable does not need replacing - hardly takes any strain.

 

[littleredrooster]

....The only problem is that the bloody fast idle still does not release when you push the lever back. You need to open the throttle and close it again before the slack is taken up in the cable again.....

Aha!! You haven't got enough slack in the cables (esp. the throttle-to-splitter-box cable). If they are pulled too tight, this is what happens.

 

[delpel]

LittleRooster,

What do you mean by "slack in the cables"?

I followed the exact route of the old cables. Do I need to reroute or just pull them back a bit.

Regards
Derek

 

[littleredrooster]

No, I meant free-play in the cables, such that the inners aren't pulled tight. If the inner cables have no free-play, they fight amongst themselves!

 

[delpel]

Oh, I see what you mean. I shall go and have a play when it cools down out there!!!


I started her up this morning after fitting the cables. Did a quick throttle balance and had a good poke around whilst she was warming.

I noticed a definet noise coming from the front end but now not sure if it's coming from the valves gear

What I did notice was that after about 5 minutes the exhaust got very smokey with blueish smoke and a couple of drips came out from the clamp where the exhausts cross over at the front of the engine. Not sure if this is just crap lying in the system after 18months stood outside in the elements or a problem with the engine itself.

The main warm fuzzy feeling I got was the beast didn't seize up and the throttles balanced easily. Ticks over at 1100rpm as well.

Any thoughts

Derek

 

[littleredrooster]

Crap lying in the system waiting to be burnt off. Don't leave it ticking over for too long - 5 mins max. Doesn't do them any good.

 

[finglonga]

Well I just replaced my cables too (R/H badly frayed) went without a hitch, thought it was to good to be true. The box came out nice, new cables went on nice, box went in nice.

Started to put all the tools away, I noticed a nice shiny C clip on the end of the magnetic tip of a screwdriver.BUGGER!!! Had to take everything apart again to get the clip back on. Like I said i thought it was to good to be true.

 

[delpel]

NO WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!

When I popped my E-clip off it went ping and was gone. SHEEEETTTTT!!!!!

I spent the next half hour crawling around the garage floor looking for the little sod. As I was about to give up I thought I'd remove the tool box just in case it had found it's way down there. Sure enough there she was sat right in the middle of the rear mudguard staring up at me.