Torque setting

[kwallace21]

Hello all,
Does anyone know the torque setting for the sump plug on a 1200 twin cam GSA .
Cheers
Kev

 

[Devil]

Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm) initially, then to 24 ft-lbs (32 Nm).


http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/

Hope it helps

 

[kwallace21]

Many thanks

Cheers
Kev

 

[technotony007]

torque settings

Hello all,
Does anyone know the torque setting for the sump plug on a 1200 twin cam GSA .
Cheers
Kev

I posted this on the site a while back , hope it helps...

regards

Tony

 

[Boxerboy55]

At the risk of preaching to the choir, be aware that "torque" is not the be-all and end-all for putting things together. Use of a torque wrench is normally recommended for more important fastenings like rear wheel bolts and cylinder head bolts where it more important that (a) the bolts are tight enough so they won't come out and (b) the set of bolts is tightened evenly to ensure a leak tight joint.

For smaller fastenings, you really ought to develop a "feel" for the fastening. The possible error in relying on torque alone at lower settings is very likely to have you over tighten and/or shear off a smaller fastening.

A 2 stage tightening as mentioned above would be good approach when using compressible washers as seen on spark plugs and some sump plug washers. Go try the feel of a brand new spark plug. It's scary at first.

The regular GS sump plug washer is a normal copper or aluminium washer that can be tighten in one go. Finger tight. Then a tweak with a spanner. You'll know it's right if the oil doesn't leak

Seriously, a torque wrench is a liability in the hands of one who has no "feel".

ps - bolt extension is the true measure of tightness. Torque gets all confused by lubricated threads or dirty threads and uncalibrated wrenches. Been there, got that T shirt.

 

[Devil]

At the risk of preaching to the choir, be aware that "torque" is not the be-all and end-all for putting things together. Use of a torque wrench is normally recommended for more important fastenings like rear wheel bolts and cylinder head bolts where it more important that (a) the bolts are tight enough so they won't come out and (b) the set of bolts is tightened evenly to ensure a leak tight joint.

For smaller fastenings, you really ought to develop a "feel" for the fastening. The possible error in relying on torque alone at lower settings is very likely to have you over tighten and/or shear off a smaller fastening.

A 2 stage tightening as mentioned above would be good approach when using compressible washers as seen on spark plugs and some sump plug washers. Go try the feel of a brand new spark plug. It's scary at first.

The regular GS sump plug washer is a normal copper or aluminium washer that can be tighten in one go. Finger tight. Then a tweak with a spanner. You'll know it's right if the oil doesn't leak

Seriously, a torque wrench is a liability in the hands of one who has no "feel".

ps - bolt extension is the true measure of tightness. Torque gets all confused by lubricated threads or dirty threads and uncalibrated wrenches. Been there, got that T shirt.

Never a truer word said.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

At the risk of preaching to the choir, be aware that "torque" is not the be-all and end-all for putting things together. Use of a torque wrench is normally recommended for more important fastenings like rear wheel bolts and cylinder head bolts where it more important that (a) the bolts are tight enough so they won't come out and (b) the set of bolts is tightened evenly to ensure a leak tight joint.

For smaller fastenings, you really ought to develop a "feel" for the fastening. The possible error in relying on torque alone at lower settings is very likely to have you over tighten and/or shear off a smaller fastening.

A 2 stage tightening as mentioned above would be good approach when using compressible washers as seen on spark plugs and some sump plug washers. Go try the feel of a brand new spark plug. It's scary at first.

The regular GS sump plug washer is a normal copper or aluminium washer that can be tighten in one go. Finger tight. Then a tweak with a spanner. You'll know it's right if the oil doesn't leak

Seriously, a torque wrench is a liability in the hands of one who has no "feel".

ps - bolt extension is the true measure of tightness. Torque gets all confused by lubricated threads or dirty threads and uncalibrated wrenches. Been there, got that T shirt.

Well said, that man

 

[Boxerboy55]

I posted this on the site a while back , hope it helps...

regards

Tony

Sorry Tony. I'm not trying to piss on anyone's parade, but I just glanced at the 24 page document via your link. Most of it is a list of small fastenings. Very time consuming to complete. And very dangerous in the wrong hands. And very pointless for small fastenings, i.e. less than 10 mm.

Again, I wouldn't lift a torque wrench for anything less than a rear wheel bolt. And that's only for even tightening. If I've just cleaned the bolts and threaded holes with WD40 and got the bolts spinning all the way with my fingers before fitting the wheel, then I would only use maybe 80% of the recommended torque figure in the book.

Go compare trying to undo or tighten the rear wheel bolts with a standard 50 Torx L shaped wrench and xx Nm with a torky wrench. If I was changing a wheel at the roadside I might struggle to undo the wheel bolt without an extension on the Torx key. But I would have no qualms about tightening the wheel bolts with a normal Torx key - and giving each one a good kick for luck Then carry on my merry way.

I recently changed winter / summer wheels on 2 cars and one needed a HUGE extension on my socket wrench to undo the bolts. But they were all torqued up - again reducing the book figure because I had greased all the bolts.

Can you guess I work in maintenance?