TPS unit

[Pale Rider]

Ok been away on the bike for an extended weekend, Saturday afternoon the bike started hunting badly at tick over spluttering and stalling, absolutely fine everywhere else just problematic at tick over, proper bastard in traffic two up but we got back home without any major dramas.

So im thinking TPS or coil packs after reading about the symptoms on here but before setting off for home from the hotel this morning I fiddled with the plug that connects to the TPS and it quickly became apparent that the little plastic wedge part was loose (think it’s proper name is a woodruff key even though it isn’t a woodruff key and bears no resemblance to one!) anyway I pushed this back to where it appeared it should be and the bike has run faultlessly for the rest of the day!

What I would like is to get a new TPS unit in stock in case the unit goes bad all of a sudden, I’ve read posts saying the Motorworks one is pants and doesn’t work properly, Hella ones are ok and get a genuine BMW unit off a BMW 316 or 318 car so I’d like to know for certain which unit to get.

I do have the GS911 unit to reset the adaptations once fitted.

Thanks guys.

 

[seahorse]

This from another recent post.

The replacement throttle position sensor supplied is marked Delphi SS10562 in case anyone else is looking for one, they're available around twenty quid online.

 

[botus]

Ok been away on the bike for an extended weekend, Saturday afternoon the bike started hunting badly at tick over spluttering and stalling, absolutely fine everywhere else just problematic at tick over, proper bastard in traffic two up but we got back home without any major dramas.

was it hot - air cooled bike's in heavy traffic overheat - one symptom is just as you describe

take a read from here re TPS fun

Post in thread 'Help! Two specialists unable to find splutter / stall ‘07 GS'

Mar 22, 2026

Evening all. So, update time. I fitted the Motorworks TPS (throttle position sensor) to my 2007 model, as you suggested, isn’t compatible … but I’ve got to follow up with Motorworks. In the end I reinstalled the old throttle position sensor having had a right old time with the throttle slider box. And hey presto, bike back to normal.

QUESTION: What am I doing wrong here with these fuel tank cap/flap rubbers - every time I try to refit the rubbers seem to pop out, or it won’t line up. Advice for this numpty appreciated! …. Photo below:
R1200GS fuel tank cap reinstall

I was...

• botus

and check values of multiple TPS sensors in post #26 if need to know more

 

[Pale Rider]

was it hot - air cooled bike's in heavy traffic overheat - one symptom is just as you describe

take a read from here re TPS fun

Post in thread 'Help! Two specialists unable to find splutter / stall ‘07 GS'

Mar 22, 2026

Evening all. So, update time. I fitted the Motorworks TPS (throttle position sensor) to my 2007 model, as you suggested, isn’t compatible … but I’ve got to follow up with Motorworks. In the end I reinstalled the old throttle position sensor having had a right old time with the throttle slider box. And hey presto, bike back to normal.

QUESTION: What am I doing wrong here with these fuel tank cap/flap rubbers - every time I try to refit the rubbers seem to pop out, or it won’t line up. Advice for this numpty appreciated! …. Photo below:
R1200GS fuel tank cap reinstall

I was...

• botus

and check values of multiple TPS sensors in post #26 if need to know more

No hotter than usual and began when I first started the bike in the morning.

 

[botus]

check the adaption values and CAT voltages in live data - when a CAT sensor gives up the bike goes stupid

CAT sensors when the engine is running jump between 200mv to 900mv - up and down for each pot, both cycling (diff to each other) every few seconds - if one is stuck on stable volts, its dead - and then the bike's adaptions were then designed to turn inside out and it runs worse and worse

 

[Pale Rider]

check the adaption values and CAT voltages in live data - when a CAT sensor gives up the bike goes stupid

CAT sensors when the engine is running jump between 200mv to 900mv - up and down for each pot, both cycling (diff to each other) every few seconds - if one is stuck on stable volts, its dead - and then the bike's adaptions were then designed to turn inside out and it runs worse and worse

Thing on the plug now pushed up properly, probably caught it with ma boot all seems ok now.

 

[TLSgazza]

Thing on the plug now pushed up properly, probably caught it with ma boot all seems ok now.

I do wonder why people come up with loads of suggestions unrelated after you stated that in the opening post.

 

[botus]

So im thinking TPS or coil packs after reading about the symptoms on here but before setting off for home from the hotel this morning I fiddled with the plug that connects to the TPS and it quickly became apparent that the little plastic wedge part was loose (think it’s proper name is a woodruff key even though it isn’t a woodruff key and bears no resemblance to one!) anyway I pushed this back to where it appeared it should be and the bike has run faultlessly for the rest of the day!

I do wonder why people come up with loads of suggestions unrelated after you stated that in the opening post.

I note you say you found the locking device misplaced in your first post - you did not say if the bike ran OK afterwards and indeed it shouldn't make a difference

I have not had the plastic wedge / BMW drivel woodruff key / AKA locking device, on my bike for 15 years - the multi-plug is fully retained by its sprung wire clip - the locking device is only to stop fiddly fingers casually disconnecting the plug and in all that time not once has it ever moved or been dislodged - I read people manage it not sure how ?

 

[Pale Rider]

I note you say you found the locking device misplaced in your first post - you did not say if the bike ran OK afterwards and indeed it shouldn't make a difference

I have not had the plastic wedge / BMW drivel woodruff key / AKA locking device, on my bike for 15 years - the multi-plug is fully retained by its sprung wire clip - the locking device is only to stop fiddly fingers casually disconnecting the plug and in all that time not once has it ever moved or been dislodged - I read people manage it not sure how ?

No I realise it should make no difference but pushing it back in sorted the issue out (and I have no idea why!) BUT after trying to balance the throttle bodies it has gone again and showing up as faulty on my GS-911wifi so after trying to be clever and saving some money by ordering a new one for £25 from Autodoc I’ve now ordered from Motorworks as I need the bike on Saturday