Traffic, claw gloves and overheating

[daytripper!]

Spending a lot of time commuting in heavy evening traffic in big cities at the mo and a few observations / thoughts occur. When stationery at traffic lights etc I leave engine running (cos I need lights and battery needs TLC), put the bike in neutral and use rear brake to stop the bike rolling on slopes. But is engine overheating (temperature gauge reads ok but then it’s not connected to valves / valve seats which appear to be the most affected bits) and is the ABS brake servo running continuously and wearing out? When finally moving off I notice my winter claw gloves mean clutch lever only gets partly pulled in (towards the handlebars) as lever comes up against other half of claw glove which is holding the handlebar; so is bad for the clutch (tho bike seems happy to snick in / out of gear ok with lever only partly pulled when stationery or moving)? I need this bike to last so any comments appreciated. For the record yes I do filter etc to min waiting around!

 

[Decster]

Spending a lot of time commuting in heavy evening traffic in big cities at the mo and a few observations / thoughts occur. When stationery at traffic lights etc I leave engine running (cos I need lights and battery needs TLC), put the bike in neutral and use rear brake to stop the bike rolling on slopes. But is engine overheating (temperature gauge reads ok but then it’s not connected to valves / valve seats which appear to be the most affected bits) and is the ABS brake servo running continuously and wearing out? When finally moving off I notice my winter claw gloves mean clutch lever only gets partly pulled in (towards the handlebars) as lever comes up against other half of claw glove which is holding the handlebar; so is bad for the clutch (tho bike seems happy to snick in / out of gear ok with lever only partly pulled when stationery or moving)? I need this bike to last so any comments appreciated. For the record yes I do filter etc to min waiting around!

Get muffs to negate the need for claw gloves.

 

[(RIP) Miff]

If using the rear brake, the servo stops running after a few seconds.

 

[Nutty]

You don't need to pull the clutch all the way in, to get a smooth gear change. It won't do any damage either.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Muffs and summer gloves are my preferred route.

As Miff says re the servo.

Overheating, especially in this weather, no way - don't worry. You'll hear the cam chain slap around (hydraulic tensioner, hot/thin oil) long before it gets too hot and it has to be very hot to do that.

Andres

 

[Bendy toy]

The oil temperature display will tell you when it's too hot
Mine did get uncomfortably warm in Cheltenham heavy rush hour. But that was the height of summer.

 

[birdseye]

Spending a lot of time commuting in heavy evening traffic in big cities at the mo and a few observations / thoughts occur. When stationery at traffic lights etc I leave engine running (cos I need lights and battery needs TLC), put the bike in neutral and use rear brake to stop the bike rolling on slopes. But is engine overheating (temperature gauge reads ok but then it’s not connected to valves / valve seats which appear to be the most affected bits) and is the ABS brake servo running continuously and wearing out? When finally moving off I notice my winter claw gloves mean clutch lever only gets partly pulled in (towards the handlebars) as lever comes up against other half of claw glove which is holding the handlebar; so is bad for the clutch (tho bike seems happy to snick in / out of gear ok with lever only partly pulled when stationery or moving)? I need this bike to last so any comments appreciated. For the record yes I do filter etc to min waiting around!

The answer to the claw glove is simple - muffs. I wish I had discovered them years ago. The pleasure of riding through winter with bone dry hands in summer gloves rather than horrible bulky winter gloves.

 

[VAL. H.]

If using the rear brake, the servo stops running after a few seconds.

Well I didn't know that! Something new every day eh!

Muffs and summer gloves are my preferred route.

As Miff says re the servo.

Overheating, especially in this weather, no way - don't worry. You'll hear the cam chain slap around (hydraulic tensioner, hot/thin oil) long before it gets too hot and it has to be very hot to do that.

Andres

We where in London a couple of weeks ago (Sunday the 9th, wet and not exactly summer. Though not cold for time of year either) caught in some pretty heavy rush hour traffic. Never mind trying not to use too much servo power, I was getting quite worried about over heating. The gauge was just one bar off the limit, the oil light coming on at tick over (guessing hot thin oil causing pressure to be too low), and my feet starting to get poached in my boots. Trying to keep moving to get air flow over the heads was flipping difficult.

Have you noticed that the modern car is so much wider these days, that filtering is almost impossible on the big bikes. My courier bike in the early nineties was only about two or three inches narrower than my 1200. Back then I used to say traffic jams didn't exist. Not now.

Get muffs to negate the need for claw gloves.

Never one to miss an opportunity I do have a few pairs left.


Val.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

............

We where in London a couple of weeks ago (Sunday the 9th, wet and not exactly summer. Though not cold for time of year either) caught in some pretty heavy rush hour traffic. Never mind trying not to use too much servo power, I was getting quite worried about over heating. The gauge was just one bar off the limit, the oil light coming on at tick over (guessing hot thin oil causing pressure to be too low), and my feet starting to get poached in my boots. Trying to keep moving to get air flow over the heads was flipping difficult.

........

While not wishing to get into a 'what oil' discussion after a cam chain slapping episode in Paris, summer, traffic I switched to decent 20/50 and never had the problem again. They do get fecking hot though don't they!

Andres

 

[Bendy toy]

Well I didn't know that! Something new every day eh!





We where in London a couple of weeks ago (Sunday the 9th, wet and not exactly summer. Though not cold for time of year either) caught in some pretty heavy rush hour traffic. Never mind trying not to use too much servo power, I was getting quite worried about over heating. The gauge was just one bar off the limit, the oil light coming on at tick over (guessing hot thin oil causing pressure to be too low), and my feet starting to get poached in my boots. Trying to keep moving to get air flow over the heads was flipping difficult.

Have you noticed that the modern car is so much wider these days, that filtering is almost impossible on the big bikes. My courier bike in the early nineties was only about two or three inches narrower than my 1200. Back then I used to say traffic jams didn't exist. Not now.

I had similar experience on a dual carriageway with narrow lanes moving at sub walking speed for miles. Bike was an air cooled Yamaha. Even a pedal bike could not have filtered. I eventually took to the closed off lane. A potential fine being cheaper than a new engine.

The GSA road presence is good for "making space". Certainly better than the similar weight but anonymous Yammie.

 

[(RIP) Miff]

Well I didn't know that! Something new every day eh!

I learnt it off this very forum. I then tried it myself. You can hear the servo stop whining, and you can also feel it slightly through the rear brake pedal. It may (or may not) help to prevent shortening the life of the servo.

We where in London a couple of weeks ago (Sunday the 9th, wet and not exactly summer. Though not cold for time of year either) caught in some pretty heavy rush hour traffic. Never mind trying not to use too much servo power, I was getting quite worried about over heating. The gauge was just one bar off the limit, the oil light coming on at tick over (guessing hot thin oil causing pressure to be too low), and my feet starting to get poached in my boots. Trying to keep moving to get air flow over the heads was flipping difficult.

If I'm in traffic that isn't moving for a while, I stop the engine and make sure the bike is in 1st gear if on a hill. Hills and traffic jams aren't part of normal life in Norfolk.

Have you noticed that the modern car is so much wider these days, that filtering is almost impossible on the big bikes. My courier bike in the early nineties was only about two or three inches narrower than my 1200. Back then I used to say traffic jams didn't exist. Not now.

I struggle to filter on my 1200GS. I don't struggle on my Kawasaki ZZR600. The GS isn't much wider than the ZZR, but I think it feels wider. It's also wider at different point of the bike.

Never one to miss an opportunity I do have a few pairs left.
Val.

That reminds me, it's time to fit my muffs. Warm toasty dry hands while wearing summer gloves. You really can't beat it.
Forget loud cans and a plethora of lights. The best mod for cold weather riding are a pair of muffs.

 

[Bendy toy]

I find the GS is easier to filter than the old Yammie 900. Riding position and visibility are better for precision stuff.

 

[daytripper!]

Several recent references on this site discussing damage to gs engine due to overheating (inc Steptoe's thread on valve seats). Obviously if stuck in traffic lack of air flow will be a prob but using the temp gauge, which is monitoring oil, could give misleading info as valve mechanism / seats / guides maybe cooked by the time oil temp starts to look high? Pain in winter traffic is not being able to turn off engine as lights are lost. Hmmmm, unless its safe to stop engine then turn ignition back on to provide lights with engine off (bit of a drain on the battery but does having ignition left on do any harm to the bike???

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Several recent references on this site discussing damage to gs engine due to overheating (inc Steptoe's thread on valve seats).

That's not strictly true, they are talking about the engine running hot due to these engines running quite lean.

You're talking about overheating due to little cooling effect due to little airflow over the engine/oil cooler.

You won't burn a valve out whilst running hot in stationary traffic. You will burn a valve out at speed (with plenty of airflow) if the mixture is too weak.

Andres

 

[daytripper!]

That's not strictly true, they are talking about the engine running hot due to these engines running quite lean.

You're talking about overheating due to little cooling effect due to little airflow over the engine/oil cooler.

You won't burn a valve out whilst running hot in stationary traffic. You will burn a valve out at speed (with plenty of airflow) if the mixture is too weak.

Andres

Ok, i see the difference and thanks for all the informative replies! Now if any one can just explain why someone with a 10 yr old gs needs to keep checking the WC threads for the latest episode of mechanical woe...... i guess it's always reassuring to check there's somebody worse off than you!

 

[Bendy toy]

Probably the Tapatalk feed.

 

[Bendy toy]

Overheating will eventually seize the pistons.
Running too weak air/fuel ratio (especially with a retarded spark as with cheap petrol) will burn the exhaust valves.
No symptoms until a valve fails.

 

[Packer]

Steppers thread was about a valve seat coming loose and shifting on the cylinder head.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Several recent references on this site discussing damage to gs engine due to overheating (inc Steptoe's thread on valve seats). Obviously if stuck in traffic lack of air flow will be a prob but using the temp gauge, which is monitoring oil, could give misleading info as valve mechanism / seats / guides maybe cooked by the time oil temp starts to look high? Pain in winter traffic is not being able to turn off engine as lights are lost. Hmmmm, unless its safe to stop engine then turn ignition back on to provide lights with engine off (bit of a drain on the battery but does having ignition left on do any harm to the bike???

Don't over think the situation. There is not a hope in hell your bike will overheat in this country unless you leave it ticking over for an hour in the midday sun. I've never ever heard of a boxer engine overheating and getting damaged in normal use.

I've ridden mine in 40 + degrees C with no issues even in traffic. Keeping myself cool however is a different story!!

Make sure you use good oil and you will be good to go.

 

[Bendy toy]

Steppers thread was about a valve seat coming loose and shifting on the cylinder head.

It could be a manufacturing fault but weak mixture and low grade petrol can overheat the exhaust valve and seat.