Trigger power

X21ekx

Registered user
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
182
Reaction score
0
Location
North Yorkshire,England
Just fitted some tasty spot lights to my 06 gsa I was wanting to tap into the highbeam power just wanted to know what colour live is?
Any ideas
Cheers in advance
 
Stating the obvious !.
You will only be using the high beam feed wire to trigger a relay, which will have its fused power feed directly from the Battery.
 
If you try to connect directly the Canbus is likely to get upset so even if the power levels are within range you will still need a relay.
 
Definitely wire in via relay, think longterm, if you're looking to fit other accessories in the future easier to go for an external fuse box now.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
I'd wire it through a relay, you can get fused one's; in the good old day's a 2•8i Capri or XR3i used them and could be picked up cheaply.

Personally, I'd take a live feed via a fusebox to relay. A burning bike is no fun.

People who would never take a short cut mechanically will happily bodge electrically.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
The fuse panel has a relay built into it,but if I take feed from there, the spots will be permanently in then wont they?
I only want the spot to come on with the high beam via the high beam rocker switch on the left handlebar
 
The fuse panel has a relay built into it,but if I take feed from there, the spots will be permanently in then wont they?
I only want the spot to come on with the high beam via the high beam rocker switch on the left handlebar

Yes but you only use the link to the main beam as a trigger for the relay, NOT the spots directly.
 
There are say four pins on the relay

For the sake of discussion;

One is earth or ground

Two is +ve feed (from battery or something live with ignition) this will require thicker wire.

Three is feed from source, in this case the main beam circuit.

Four is +ve feed from relay to spotlights which again requires thicker wire due to the current flow.

You can get a five pin relay which gives you a twin fed output, meaning you can run the seperatly to each spotlight, and would be my preference. Also you can get relays with inbuilt fusing, fail safe is always way to design.

Hope this is of help, it also makes life easier for fault finding, and future owner's to use existing colour coding to any circuit extension.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
There are say four pins on the relay

For the sake of discussion;

One is earth or ground

Two is +ve feed (from battery or something live with ignition) this will require thicker wire.

Three is feed from source, in this case the main beam circuit.

Four is +ve feed from relay to spotlights which again requires thicker wire due to the current flow.

You can get a five pin relay which gives you a twin fed output, meaning you can run the seperatly to each spotlight, and would be my preference. Also you can get relays with inbuilt fusing, fail safe is always way to design.

Hope this is of help, it also makes life easier for fault finding, and future owner's to use existing colour coding to any circuit extension.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Not all five pin relays have ganged / twin make & brake outputs, many use a common to normally open and normally closed contacts (change over relay).
Did not want the op wondering why one spot was switching on while the other switched off.
Either use a fused relay, fuse block or inline fuse connected to the battery, connect the output to pin 30 on a four pin relay.
Connect the spotlights to pin 87.
connect pin 86 to ground or -ve on battery.
Connect a wire to the main beam (trigger wire) to pin 85.
 


Back
Top Bottom