Trip Report - Routes des grandes Alpes, Route napoleon, Parc vercors

Bateman

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I have just spent a few days in the Alps and thought I'd share some of the photos and highlights/lowlights/lessons learned with you. At some point in the next few weeks i'll pull together mapsource files etc for anyone who is interested. Thanks to all who gave me lots of advice beforehand to help me get the most out of the few days i had down there (especially Franco :thumb ). Every pass/road mentioned below was fantastic - there isn't a single one I wouldn't do again. Favourite of the whole trip was the Col D'Izoard, followed closely by the Col De Cayolle - Izoard was superb to ride, with a newly tarmaced south side, and cayolle was just a stunning, narrow, bumpy ride surrounded by stunning scenery.

Overview
I had 'permission' to take 5 days away, wherever I wanted, as long as I let my wife have, in return, 5 days away herself and spend the same amount of money. Having been to the Alps last year for a similar length of time on my own, I decided to return again this year and see some different areas. This time I would be joined by two friends and we would be going in the last week of May. Budget for the whole trip was £500 and I wanted to to see as much of the Routes Des Grandes Alpes, the Route Napoleon and the Parc Vercors as time would allow - which was only 3 days by the time I took out a day each way to get there. So with only an Oxford Humpback and bumbag, sheepskin rug, Satnav and prayers for good weather, we set off on friday Night on the overnight LDLINES ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre....

Day 1

The LD Lines ferry was cheap - much cheaper than Brittany. A 5 day return with bike, in Club Class was only £60. However, everything on board is very expensive (£1.75 for a can of coke) and Club class is not woth the extra tenner - the chairs are no more comfortable than standard. I'll get a cabin next time.. We arrived in le havre at around 8am and headed straight off via the A6 towards Geneva, arriving at the Annecy turn off just after 2.30pm. It was pretty much 100mph all the way with short stops for fags and coffee. From Annecy we headed up to Thones and up the Col des Aravis to our first hotel. This was an absolutely superb place just over the Col, called l'Escale. The owner rides one of the Media Bikes for the Tour De France and is very amicable - he also runs motorbike tours through the Alps. We got a triple room, with breakfast, for 80 euros - less than £20 each. Highly recommended - there is a garage that the owner locks the bikes in, the views are tremendous and the waitress at the village bar was the most attractive girl I've seen in a long time.

View from the hotel window:
DSC00918w.jpg


The hotel website (http://www.escale-des-aravis.com/us/index.html)is not great but it is definitely worth a stopver if you are in that area. There is not much to do there if you are after nightlife, but if you want clean, comfortable, alpine lodging at a great price, then you can't go wrong.

Day 2

A long day planned, taking in a number of passes and ending up in Barcolenette. From the hotel, we headed down to Flumet but the Gorge D'Arly was closed, so we took a great little detour over to Ugine, topped up with Petrol then headed up to the Cormet De Roselend. After a quick stop at the dam, we headed up to the top where the abundance of snow added to scenery:

roseland.jpg


From Roselend, we headed into Bourg St Maurice and down the nice twisty road to Moutiers. just north of Moutiers is the turn off for the Col De la Madeleine, which AlpineRoads.com had said was closed. We thought we'd take a look anyway, and after a fun, twisty ascent on a narrow road, we arrived at the..Route Barre signs....

mad_closed.jpg


We managed to ride past the barrier and after a short stop headed up to the top. There was a fair amount of snow but the roads were clear and smooth, with the occasional bit of excitement....

mad_ice.jpg


From here, things get a bit hazy...I can't remember which photos go with which passes, but we took in Galibier, Vars, Izoard and Bonette, all of which were superb. In no particular order here are some pictures of those passes..I haven't had time to sit down and figure out which are which but I will soon.

izoard.jpg


galibier1.jpg


This next photo is of the Cime De La Bonette - the highest road in Europe. We arrived in jausiers at about 6pm and decided to head up to Bonette and back down again, and then find a hotel. The road was great - very narrow near the top and freshly tarmaced. there were also lots of marmots running around, which was quite amusing.

bonette_view.jpg


We didn't get right to the very top as the road was blocked and, given the steep drop to the side, I wasn't prepared to try the 4 inch gap....

bonette_blocked.jpg


So after a 20 minute struggle to turn the bikes round, we headed back down to barcolenette and found a small hotel for the night - nothing fancy but at that time of the night we just wanted food, showers and beds.

Day 3

To be added tomorrow.....
 
Now thats spookie :eek: Same spot June last year. Phone camera though. Looking forwards to more, :D
 

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Brilliant pics,

and good write-up. Really glad you enjoyed it. The Izoard is probably my favourite too. The rocks at the top on the south side are like nothing else...Superb. Can't wait to see the rest. You're a master of understatement too. That picture at the top of the Madeleine, and the quote "Fair amount of snow" absolutely spectacular!! :eek:

Can't wait to see the rest of the photies.

Cheers.../Rob
 
Great write up. :clap

Getting very excited about going down there in a few weeks. Looking forward to next instalment - especially about the Vercors.
 
Day 3

We awoke at about 7am to glorious sunshine - a far cry from the weather forecast which had predicted snow above 1800m. The plan for today was to head across the Col De Cayolle, cut across to castellan, ride the Gorges Du Verdon then head up and stop off at Digne Les Bains for the night. After a top up of coffee and croissants, we filled up at the pump on the hotel forecourt and rode through barclonnette, following the signs to the Col de La Cayolle. I think this was my favourite run of the whole trip. The road leading up the valley is fairly narrow and quite bumpy and great for just pottering along at 30mph and taking in the stunning views:

cayolle_river.jpg


A little further up the road was a small bridge with a cracking view up the valley to another small bridge - if you look very closely you can see my two friends on the bridge....

cayolle_bridge.jpg


As we'd come to expect, the views from the top were again superb.

cayolle_view.jpg


I don't think you can tire of alpine scenery. The ride down was fairly quick, with a short stop at a little town for coffee and then continuing on a sweeping ride down to castellane, for a short section of the route napoleon and the loop of the gorges du verdon - which i will continue with later as the wife is getting fed up with me taking forever trying to convert my pictures into smaller sizes.... If I had to choose between Bonette and cayolle (as they seem to run parallel), I'd choose the latter. Fortunately, we were able to do both by blasting up to Bonette and back down again the night before. I have never taken my GS off road so can't comment but the little bumpy, twisty lane up the cayolle was exactly the type of experience I had bought my GS for. More to come.
 
.

Ach c'mon ya big tease, just get the photies oot in one go. I really must get my arse into gear and get round the Gorges du Verdon again. It's only 40 minutes from here and I haven't seen it for a couple of years....:-O
If you hurry up and get your piccies on, it might inspire me to get up at 6am and get out there...
 
:bounce1 Excellent
Am out that way in 3 weeks - pictures are great and have made me look forward to trip even more.
Le Havre to Annecy in 6 1/2 hours - respect man!

S
 
bladerunner said:
:bounce1
Le Havre to Annecy in 6 1/2 hours - respect man!

S

It was a combination of only stopping for a smoke and a drink at every fuel stop, maintaining 95mph on the GPS most of the way (trying to stay with a friend on a sportsbike who obviously suffered no effects of wind noise/buffeting) and surprisingly quiet traffic whilst circling Paris. Fuel economy wasn't great though - I was seeing the reserve light come on every 130 miles or so. And possibly some slight unintended exageration on the timings, though I don't think they are too far out.
 
Day 3 After Lunch

The ride down to castellane after the Cayolle was great - a real twisy road through a large gorge, with great views. I took a couple of photos but as with most of the photos i take, they don't capture the scale or magnificence of the view so I won't post them. From Castellane we had our first experience of the Route Napoleon - or rather the local drivers who obviously know the roads well. Traffic had stopped at some temporary roadworks lights and i filtered to the front, and pulled alongside a peugeot 406. When the lights turned green, I pulled away and the Peugeot accelerated alongside me. A quick blip of the throttle put me far enough ahead to let him then overtake and then he was off - tyres screeching on the bends and before i knew it he was out of sight. We stuck on the route Napoleon for 10 or so miles then turned off for the Gorges Du Verdon. I had read that this was the second largest canyon in the world after the grand canyon but thought that must be an exageration as I'd never heard of it until I started planning this trip. We rode the full loop of the canyon, doing the south side first, alongside the lake, then down the north side back to castellane. That probably took most of the afternoon as we stopped every few minutes to take photos. The traffic was also quite busy. Lots of fast cars racing around - I did try and stick with two porsche 911s who were having a race but there was no way i could stay with them - it was like watching two scalextric cars the way they stuck to the road and accelerated out. I have attached some pictures below but they really don't reflect the size of this canyon - it really is huge and the roads are great. i did get caught out a couple of times peering over the edge of the cliff and not noticing a coach or camper van coming down the other way.

First glimpses of the Gorge...

verdon1.jpg


verdon2.jpg



Most of the roads around the gorge are like this - steep cliff faces, big drop offs and tight bends separated by short straights. Note the nets on the side of the cliff - at one point we were stopped for 30 minutes when there was a big rockfall onto the road and the debris had to be cleared and the cliff netted.

verdon3.jpg


The next photo is taken from the south side of the river where the road stays quite high up until a steep descent towards the lake. the north side runs much lower - you can see the road on the other side of the river in the background.

verdon4.jpg


After stopping for drinks back at castellane, we had a 35 mile ride up to Digne Les bains, where we would stop for the night. This section of the route Napoleon was very fast and twisty but also quite nerve-wracking. There were fast cars everywhere (possibly coming back from the Monaco formula 1) who really seemed to be putting their skills to the limit. An incredible road but obviously a bit of a racetrack for the locals.

Once at Digne Les bains, we found a small hotle for the night - 90 euros for a triple room including breakfast and got some rest before our trip up to vercors the next day. i'll post those pictures tomorrow.

digne_hotel.jpg
 
Heading down that way with a bunch of friends on the 20th, going to WSB in San Marino, via cap & Briancon, I think we will be able to do the Col de Izoard on our way to Briancon. But would apreciate seeing your Mapsource files of your trip. we have spent a lot of time planning our trip down over the Alps and we havent yet settled on a route back home. so any advice would be gladly helpfull, I have asked for advice for our return on other forums on this site, but have not been able to generate any suggestions.

smashing report by the way.
 
me also

maps for me also leaving in 4 weeks,germany,swiss alps,italy,south france,good route home from south france to amsterdam would be apprecited off anybody got any :thumb
 
Great pics. We just did the trip down to Mugello GP and also stopped outside Annecy (nr Albertville Gt Western hotel highly recommended). Did the Col du Roseland , San Bernadino and on the way back the Col Du Cenis. We found snow and ice at the top of Roseland and slithered thru it. Highly recommend all three passes , tho Cenis on the French side was pure class!

Keep the pics coming!

Stu

PS
LeHavre - Annecy 6 1/2 hours! We managed Calais - Annecy in 8 with the passes thrown in and that was better than 'making progress'.
 
Gorge Du Verdon

Have spent two family holidays there in Castellane. The "camp du verdon" is a great site we stayed with eurocamp. Real bike country.
 
Bateman said:
I have just spent a few days in the Alps and thought I'd share some of the photos and highlights/lowlights/lessons learned with you. At some point in the next few weeks i'll pull together mapsource files etc for anyone who is interested. ....

Some fantastic photos and an excellent commentary to boot - sounds like you had a great time. I'm also off to the same region for 7 days, leaving next week and can't wait. Therefore would be very interested to see your mapsource files - any chance of posting as you mentioned earlier? :)

Thanks :thumb

Peter
 
Peter
We'll be going through the Gorges du Verdon Wednesday 28th June. If you are down then and see a silver GSA and silver R1100RT - gissa wave.

Simon
 
Noddy said:
Now thats spookie :eek: Same spot June last year. Phone camera though. Looking forwards to more, :D

Now that's spookie......... :D
 

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bladerunner said:
Peter
We'll be going through the Gorges du Verdon Wednesday 28th June. If you are down then and see a silver GSA and silver R1100RT - gissa wave.

Simon


My wedding anniversary... and Castellane you are a lucky git. If you are looking for a great camp site in castellane the try
www.camp-du-verdon.com you need to book but its right on the gorge and the river.
 
bladerunner said:
Peter
We'll be going through the Gorges du Verdon Wednesday 28th June. If you are down then and see a silver GSA and silver R1100RT - gissa wave.

Simon

Hey if YOU see a silver GS with a large man wearing a Joey Dunlop lid. Give ME a wave :thumb
 


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