Triple ...........

[steadysteve]

Brilliant thread , really enjoyed it from the start.
Won't it be nearly impossible to steer if your arms are straight out in front? Those bars remind me of when I used to do a lot of BMX bike racing and the angle of the bars relative to the forks (i.e bars tilted forward of the forks) made the steering unstable due to the way you had to push your body forward to make the bars turn. Also when hitting a bump it was easy for the bars to be wrenched from one hand or the other because your arms are at full stretch already. No doubt somebody could explain the physics and instability side of things better than this but i know it just used to feel 'wrong' with the bars forward. With the bars tilted back it made the bike a lot more stable.
Just a thought, would hate for it to be dropped...

 

[Roberto]

A joy to read this thread. Lovely..!

 

[(RIP) 163phil]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread having seen the bike in the flesh today. Most impressive, and a credit to your skills and patience Chris. I too don't particularly like the bars (but was too polite to say, especially in front of Paul!), but I can certainly appreciate a work of art. It would be a dull World indeed if we all had the same tastes.

I hope you sorted the electrickery out without frying the CDI, and I look forward to seeing the finished article in these pages or even one of the magazines.

 

[Fluffmeister]

Just to.echo what's been.said, a.great thread, a great build, you.are.a.true craftsman.

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread having seen the bike in the flesh today. Most impressive, and a credit to your skills and patience Chris. I too don't particularly like the bars (but was too polite to say, especially in front of Paul!), but I can certainly appreciate a work of art. It would be a dull World indeed if we all had the same tastes.

I hope you sorted the electrickery out without frying the CDI, and I look forward to seeing the finished article in these pages or even one of the magazines.

Cheers Phil,

You wouldn't have offended Paul by telling him what you thought about the bars, he's used to hearing it! Even his wife dislikes them

The Cdi saga is still ongoing, went into Triumph to chat to a technician and came out having spent an hour with everyone very confused, did another couple of hours diagnostics about with one of the Kart racing from the top of the yard and made a small amount of progress not none that produced a spark
I'm day off tomorrow so I'll continue on Thursday with a clear mind!

 

[Ogmios]

Personally - I think the entire Bike looks shite - but i love those handlebars.






~~

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Anyone got a box of sparks?

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Chris

I bet if you put the entire bike back to original it would fire up

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Chris

I bet if you put the entire bike back to original it would fire up

I'll mention it to Paul .........

 

[lewisjohn]

Cheers Phil,

You wouldn't have offended Paul by telling him what you thought about the bars, he's used to hearing it! Even his wife dislikes them

The Cdi saga is still ongoing, went into Triumph to chat to a technician and came out having spent an hour with everyone very confused, did another couple of hours diagnostics about with one of the Kart racing from the top of the yard and made a small amount of progress not none that produced a spark
I'm day off tomorrow so I'll continue on Thursday with a clear mind!

Have you checked the air gap on the ignition igniter located under the small oval cover on the clutch side of the engine.I think it should be 5 thou,if it has closed then it can give the symptoms you have mentioned .

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Have you checked the air gap on the ignition igniter located under the small oval cover on the clutch side of the engine.I think it should be 5 thou,if it has closed then it can give the symptoms you have mentioned .

Yeah I've checked absolutely everything several times. The book states that the air gap is 0.6-0.8mm 25-30 thou which seems large to me. It's currently set at 0.7mm.
It's frustrating because the rest of the loom is built so aside from the ignition wiring it's just about finished!
I'm currently looking for a resistance figure for the pickup so I can run the meter across it tomorrow!

 

[Leasouth]

Great bike, and a great insight on the prep

The bars or OK.........ish

Propane blow heater in the workshop was a surprise. The amount of bloody moisture they create is a bit of a no no with restoration work, metalwork and paintwork

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Great bike, and a great insight on the prep

The bars or OK.........ish

Propane blow heater in the workshop was a surprise. The amount of bloody moisture they create is a bit of a no no with restoration work, metalwork and paintwork

Cheers fella,

I yeah the propane heater isn't ideal but fortunately my paint booth, prep areas and blast room are in complete isolation (within a giant walk in freezer that I've converted)

 

[Leasouth]

Cheers fella,

I yeah the propane heater isn't ideal but fortunately my paint booth, prep areas and blast room are in complete isolation (within a giant walk in freezer that I've converted)

Paint shop looks great.

Propane blow heaters give great fast heat but produce masses of moisture (30% or something silly). If you're working for yourself and putting in long hours find a good dry heat commercial space heater and you'll save a small fortune and your cars/bikes and gear will stay dryer and suffer far less corrosion and you'll breathe better ;-)

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Paint shop looks great.

Propane blow heaters give great fast heat but produce masses of moisture (30% or something silly). If you're working for yourself and putting in long hours find a good dry heat commercial space heater and you'll save a small fortune and your cars/bikes and gear will stay dryer and suffer far less corrosion and you'll breathe better ;-)

In all honesty mate, I hardly use it!

 

[Nick591]

If its the same as my 97 trophy 900 triple your ignition sensor pick up resistancebshould read 530 ohms +/- 10%. They are a knoown point of failure on Trophy's up to 2003 especially when they get hot - use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat it up and check it. I guess you know the igniter box grounds the coils to create the spark? Fantastic work by the way, having beadlasted and repainted parts of the engine on my Trophy I can glimpse slightly the amount of time you have spent. Incredible effort, great job, Paul is a lucky guy.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

If its the same as my 97 trophy 900 triple your ignition sensor pick up resistancebshould read 530 ohms +/- 10%. They are a knoown point of failure on Trophy's up to 2003 especially when they get hot - use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat it up and check it. I guess you know the igniter box grounds the coils to create the spark? Fantastic work by the way, having beadlasted and repainted parts of the engine on my Trophy I can glimpse slightly the amount of time you have spent. Incredible effort, great job, Paul is a lucky guy.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Hi Nick,

I do indeed have 530 ohms (give or take) at the sensor. I've not tried heating it up as it's not sparking from cold. The coils have all got 12v up to them. Everything points to the Cdi 'igniter' box not triggering the coils to spark. Trouble is, being an electronic box there's no tellings what's going on inside!!

 

[Nick591]

Looking at the Haynes manual wiring diagram you may need to ground the green wire off the igniter which may be a safety interlock? The white wire also should be connected to ground, red wire to 12v with coil positives. There is also a loop through the plug for the sounder connection for the optional alarm and on to the side stand switch (grey wire). On Trophies there is a jumper plug if the alarm is not fitted which is a known problem if not connected properly or corroded etc.

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Looking at the Haynes manual wiring diagram you may need to ground the green wire off the igniter which may be a safety interlock? The white wire also should be connected to ground, red wire to 12v with coil positives. There is also a loop through the plug for the sounder connection for the optional alarm and on to the side stand switch (grey wire). On Trophies there is a jumper plug if the alarm is not fitted which is a known problem if not connected properly or corroded etc.

Here's the trouble I have.

I'm currently in possession of THREE wiring diagrams. One from a Haynes Manual, one from a Triumph forum and one from the technical database that Triumph technicians use at the main dealers. ALL of which are different and NONE of which match the wiring harness from the igniter box. I've got three 'spare' feeds on the igniter harness which were part of the side stand, neutral light and clutch switch circuitry. Two of them are positive at 4.5v and one of them is positive at 9v. But, without a wiring diagram to follow I'm a bit in the dark as to what the igniter box is expecting them to do. I've been through a few permutations but none of which have yielded a positive outcome.

You gotta love Triumphs!

 

[Packer]

Throw it all away and fit a magneto

You have my sympathy on this, electronics are great when they work!