Twin spark valve adjustment

MarkShelley

Very similar to Paolo Maldini
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I have done the valves on my 1100GS plenty of times. At the weekend I am doing them on my 1150R twinspark
I suspect it is a similar procedure, but what are the differences?
 
Top coils are stick coils and the original coil has extra long leads to go to the lower plugs N.B. very careful when removing stick coils do NOT pull the connectors or you may need a repair kit!!!

Same clearances Same rocker end float

Do you use 2 feeler gauges simultaneously?

DO NOT PRESS STARTER with lower plugs left in to "bump" the engine over Even you unplug the tank there is some pressure in the fuel rail enough for a couple of spurts and bangs!

Nope not a DAMHIK I saw foreman do it on first twinspark service :aidan
 
So you don`t even need touch the lower plug at all during the procedure then?
I always turn the engine over after removing the alternator pulley cover as I check the belt at the same time.
 
All sorted. End floats were all over the place. Now all set at the minimum 0.05 gap.:thumb2
 
All sorted. End floats were all over the place. Now all set at the minimum 0.05 gap.:thumb2

Did you measure them before you made the adjustment ? What's the noticeable difference then and did you set the end flat before you did the valves ?
 
Did you measure them before you made the adjustment ? What's the noticeable difference then and did you set the end flat before you did the valves ?

All were greater than 0.05, the worst was 0.4, and yes, I did do the end float before the valves
 
I forgot to ask.........when I was putting the timing mark `bung` back in place it dropped into the little crevice between the casing and the barrel and I couldn`t get it out. I have ordered a few as the are only a quid, but what would happen if you rode without one for a while? I have put some really sticky 3M tape over it when I took the bike out to warm it up so I could do the TB balancing but I may want to use it on a longer trip tomorrow.
 
It'll be fine with the tape I have a mate with some on for the last 5 years it just keeps dirt and moisture out of the clutch area

5 years because we never realise it's still there until service time and its here and I only spot it on the ramp, but its still there :aidan
 
Don't worry about it, most of us have pushed the bung through at some point:D

The simple way of setting the engine for valve clearance is to remove the 2 cam sprocket covers and turn the rear wheel (in gear) until the 2 arrows on the sprocket are horizontal, obviously checking its on the right stroke, so as long as the inlet was last to close, it's right.

That's the way I've been doing it :)
 
Don't worry about it, most of us have pushed the bung through at some point:D

The simple way of setting the engine for valve clearance is to remove the 2 cam sprocket covers and turn the rear wheel (in gear) until the 2 arrows on the sprocket are horizontal, obviously checking its on the right stroke, so as long as the inlet was last to close, it's right.

That's the way I've been doing it :)

I like to do it my way as it means I can check the alternator belt at the same time. Putting the rubber bung back is the hardest thing about doing the whole procedure:D
 
I like to do it my way as it means I can check the alternator belt at the same time. Putting the rubber bung back is the hardest thing about doing the whole procedure:D

I have never ever removed the rubber bung from an engine.

I just stick a pencil down the spark plug hole to tell me when i'm at TDC. :D
 
I have never ever removed the rubber bung from an engine.

I just stick a pencil down the spark plug hole to tell me when i'm at TDC. :D

I use a cable tie, someone I know put the pencil in at BDC turned the engine and 'snap' half a Derwent HB resting on top of the piston:blast:D
 


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