Tyre hitting Paralever arm

[Shep]

Had some new TKC's fitted to the R100GS at the Hograost last weekend and the tyre just touches the arm, it is only a little bit and I could easily cut the offending knobblies back a bit. So no real problem.

What I was thinking is that I am going to restring the wheels soon and was thinking of getting the rear wheel offset by 3mm (this would give me 2mm clearance)

Can any one envisage any problems?

Also, and I know it's unlikey, but would there be any advantage to moving it further perhaps to fit a bigger tyre?

Shep

 

[John Armstrong]

Seen this: http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/...=4480&osCsid=f82ed99e9935305f38665f536059bce6

 

[Voyager]

Seen this: http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/...=4480&osCsid=f82ed99e9935305f38665f536059bce6

The larger 'K-Series' bikes have spacers - but they have disk rear brakes that remain unaffected by wheel alignment.

This will move the rear brake drum in relation to the shoes. If the drum is worn the shoes won't make proper contact (until they bed-in again).

I haven't measured the drum width in relation to shoe width, but you may find the brake is only working on part of the shoe.

I can't imagine Touratech would sell something that is not right - so I might be typing bollix - but I'd check the alignment before buying.

The "Not for road use" warning may be relevant here .

Bob.

 

[Shep]

Seen this: http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/...=4480&osCsid=f82ed99e9935305f38665f536059bce6

Much as i appreciate your link, have a heart, i'm trying not to spend on bling for this bike the spacer is ok, but there is a whole host of other bits in there that are interesting

How does that spacer work then regarding the back brake?, they must assume, i would guess that the rear drum is in excellent condition with no ridge?

I think if I wasn't going to respoke the wheels anyway I would go for the spacer as its a far cheaper option, but as the work is going to be done anyway I think I may just shift it over a little?

 

[John Armstrong]

Much as i appreciate your link, have a heart, i'm trying not to spend on bling for this bike the spacer is ok, but there is a whole host of other bits in there that are interesting

I don't know how it works, but I will make a guess that the spacer on the front wheel is very similar to the TT one. If it is, then getting a BM / Motorworks one might work out cheaper.

 

[Rob Farmer]

The spacer for the 1150 rear wheel fits as well - part 3 here Link

If your real drum has a lip worn in it it will cause peroblems with the rear brake.

 

[Redboots]

3 mm spacer here.

John

 

[MickDB1]

If it only just touches why not get a electic planer on the outside of the tyre and just shave a tadge off it
Not many ride on the outside of the outside knobbly do they

I may add a disclaimer of nowt to do with me and all that -
bet it aint 1 mm -
thats what I would do - and I know of one other famous airheader on this site that has done it !!!!!

 

[Solo Lobo]

The spacer used on the K75's is 2mm and in the US is less than $8.... I ran the K75 spacer, TKC's and an Ohlins for years with no issues...

I think the R11xxGS spacer is 1mm

 

[Rob Farmer]

I think the R11xxGS spacer is 1mm

I've got one here. It's 2mm. I had it on my R80GS when it had TKC's fitted.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I don;t quite get this Guys If you move the wheel centreline offset by X mm

you will screw some of the handling aspects

Grinder arefully set on swingarm and buff Rubber baby!

Surely it can;t be that much of the Knobbley bits need removed?

 

[Shep]

I don;t quite get this Guys If you move the wheel centreline offset by X mm

you will screw some of the handling aspects

Grinder arefully set on swingarm and buff Rubber baby!

Surely it can;t be that much of the Knobbley bits need removed?

It's a tiny little bit right on the tips of the knobbles, but seeing as I was going to get the wheels restrung anyway I thought I would offset it a little

As long as the wheels are paralell a slight out of line will make no difference to most riders, in fact alot of specials have real differences in wheel track with no apparant ill effects, both wheels do need to be pointing in the same direction though

Shep

 

[MattW]

It's a tiny little bit right on the tips of the knobbles, but seeing as I was going to get the wheels restrung anyway I thought I would offset it a little

As long as the wheels are paralell a slight out of line will make no difference to most riders, in fact alot of specials have real differences in wheel track with no apparant ill effects, both wheels do need to be pointing in the same direction though

Shep

I've also heard that offsets are just about unnoticeable - apparently the boxer cup racers ran quite large offsets on the rear wheels so that they could fit in wider rubber.

 

[mikyh]

Not for the road

Moving the rear wheel out of line a little in off road situations is OK, but not so OK on the road.
Unless you use your bike for offroad only, I wouldnt do it. What's more, why does anyone need more tyre than the 130/80 for off road is beyond my understanding.

When I had the same tyre (TKC) I also cliped some knobs to clear the arm.
As I hardly go off road anymore, I'm back on Sahara 3, much nicer on road, still acceptable on the dirt.
And the wheels are aligned..

 

[Redboots]

I don;t quite get this Guys If you move the wheel centreline offset by X mm you will screw some of the handling aspects

Some say its only the Korean made TKC's that foul the para arm. First time I noticed it, I cut a sliver off every other block on the right side with a Stanley knife and it was fine.
The 3mm spacer I fitted with the next set made no difference at all to the handling - that I noticed, TKC's not being the pinnacle of road tyre handling

John