Under seat power socket not working

[motor_mad_man]

Hi, just quickie. While stripping my 2014 gsa to fit some new beak and right hand side panels l thought l would test out the power sockets and sat nav as l had the wiring disconnected.

Anyway the dealer fitted rear socket under the engine ecu doesn't seem to be working. Any Ideas? Where's the fuse?

 

[MikeO]

If it is fitted into the canbus then I think it auto-disconnects a few minutes after you switch the ignition off, have you tried it with the ignition on and off? If it's wired into the canbus it won't have a fuse...

 

[motor_mad_man]

I've tried it with the ignition off and on and with the bike running for a minute or two

 

[(RIP) Miff]

Depends on what you plugged into it for testing. They trip out at 5amps IIRC.

 

[motor_mad_man]

plugged in an interphone usb adapter that's all and the power light didn't light up. So assume it's not getting power.

 

[motor_mad_man]

Finally got round to checking out and using a multimeter. I took the plug off the back of the socket and there is no feed to it so it's either a fuse blown or its not coded in.

 

[Grums3]

I fitted the AUX socket myself which is located under the rider seat.

No extra programming is required. The additional cable connects directly to the AUX sockets beside the dash/clocks. My socket was working fine after I fitted it. But just noticed now that my AUX sockets wont switch off after shutting down the bike.

It should power down MIN 1min - Max 13min. Mine doesn't shut down but you can here the control unit trying every minute. There is an audible click. This is the control unit behind the battery.

Going to have to get mine booked in to my Motorrad dealer to get this sorted and also my spot lamps have condensation with the right unit now not working!!

 

[trebor]

No extra programming is required. The additional cable connects directly to the AUX sockets beside the dash/clocks. My socket was working fine after I fitted it. But just noticed now that my AUX sockets wont switch off after shutting down the bike.

It should power down MIN 1min - Max 13min. Mine doesn't shut down but you can here the control unit trying every minute. There is an audible click. This is the control unit behind the battery.

You haven't left anything plugged into either Aux socket have you?
I accidently left an Autocom BTM-02 Bluetooth device plugged into mine and this stopped the Can bus shutting down the socket with exactly the same symptoms you describe.

 

[Grums3]

trebor,

Thanks for the heads up buddy. I have just fitted my Autocom to the bike and I bet this is the problem.

So basically if you leave anything plugged into the AUX socket it wont shut it down? That is retarded really eh...

I guess Id be better off using my PDM60 direct off the battery and use the trigger from the AUX socket. Anyone tried that?

 

[trebor]

trebor,

Thanks for the heads up buddy. I have just fitted my Autocom to the bike and I bet this is the problem.

So basically if you leave anything plugged into the AUX socket it wont shut it down? That is retarded really eh...

I found it was just the BTM-02 that was keeping the Can bus open, the Autocom on it's own was fine. It was a temporary hook up whilst I sorted something more permanent. I tested it right from the start and knew of the problem with the BTM-02, so I used to unplug it when not in use. Then one day I forgot, and several days later the battery was flat as a fart!

I guess Id be better off using my PDM60 direct off the battery and use the trigger from the AUX socket. Anyone tried that?

That is exactly what I've done as a permanent solution. The PDM60 is triggered from the back of the Aux socket and everything else powered from the PDM60, including the socket for my heated jacket and my Autocom/radio kit. Works a treat, although the cheaper Fuzeblock units (sold by NippyNorman's) should work just as well.

One tip if you use the PDM60 - The instructions say you don't need a fuse in the feed from the battery. Personally, I don't like this idea, a fuse should be used to protect the battery, I would suggest putting one in this feed as close to the battery as possible.
Connect the feed to the Positive post behind the panel on the RHS of the bike (as you sit on it), the battery is connected directly to this post.

HTH

Bob

 

[Grums3]

I found it was just the BTM-02 that was keeping the Can bus open, the Autocom on it's own was fine. It was a temporary hook up whilst I sorted something more permanent. I tested it right from the start and knew of the problem with the BTM-02, so I used to unplug it when not in use. Then one day I forgot, and several days later the battery was flat as a fart!


That is exactly what I've done as a permanent solution. The PDM60 is triggered from the back of the Aux socket and everything else powered from the PDM60, including the socket for my heated jacket and my Autocom/radio kit. Works a treat, although the cheaper Fuzeblock units (sold by NippyNorman's) should work just as well.

One tip if you use the PDM60 - The instructions say you don't need a fuse in the feed from the battery. Personally, I don't like this idea, a fuse should be used to protect the battery, I would suggest putting one in this feed as close to the battery as possible.
Connect the feed to the Positive post behind the panel on the RHS of the bike (as you sit on it), the battery is connected directly to this post.

HTH

Bob

Bob,
Cheers for the info, really really appreciated. I'm away working just now but when I get home in a few weeks I'll get it all sorted. I have a PDM60 from my previous bike, so I'll get that fitted in and hopefully that will be the end of my troubles.

Just got to get the spot lamps sorted and I'm good to go, seems like the spot lamps are an issue with a few of the bikes on here.

Thanks again.
Graham

 

[motor_mad_man]

I've sorted it out last night. I found the plugs on the right hand side just below the clocks.

I had to rebuild the front right hand side due to Wheel Barrow falling off the back of the truck and hitting that side. The plugs for the front and rear sockets are the same and l had wired them up the wrong way.

So what I've found found out is that if you plug them up the wrong way the front socket still works but the rear socket won't.