underseat power socket

[VAL. H.]

I'm thinking about removing the can-bus wires from the under seat power socket and replacing them with wires direct from the battery. I'm fed up not being able to charge my blue tooth because the can-bus decides there's too much current draw and switches off the socket.

If I just cover the removed wires and leave them disconnected, is this going to cause a problem with the can-bus system?

Val.

 

[bustupbiker]

I'm thinking about removing the can-bus wires from the under seat power socket and replacing them with wires direct from the battery. I'm fed up not being able to charge my blue tooth because the can-bus decides there's too much current draw and switches off the socket.

If I just cover the removed wires and leave them disconnected, is this going to cause a problem with the can-bus system?

Val.

I would not think so Val, i mean the socket sits on the bike with nothing plugged into it and no problems. I think as long as you insulate the wires
then all should be ok. Will you remove the wires from the plug and reuse it
or try for a new plug?

 

[John Armstrong]

If I was you I'd use one of these: http://www.nippynormans.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BAS-SD14&variation=&aitem=8&mitem=15

Backwards compatible and seperate from the canbus

 

[Wapping]

I'm thinking about removing the can-bus wires from the under seat power socket and replacing them with wires direct from the battery. I'm fed up not being able to charge my blue tooth because the can-bus decides there's too much current draw and switches off the socket.

If I just cover the removed wires and leave them disconnected, is this going to cause a problem with the can-bus system?

Val.

There will be no problem at all. However:

(1) Don't forget to put a fuse in-line, as close as possible to the battery. 5 amp should do.

(2) Don't forget that the socket will be unswitched, permanently live. If you leave something connected to it that is itself permanently on (some blue tooth devices are, as they keep 'hunting' for partners) you will flatten the battery.

(3) I am surprised that the original socket is shutting down. It is rated at 5 amps, comfortably enough to drive a simple blue tooth charger. Are you sure the wires on the back of the socket are not corroded, leading to the problem, or that the lead to the charger (or the charger itself) is not damaged?

 

[Happyhenry]

Val,
there are loads of threads on this subject. I made a small bracket and put a second socket under the seat next to the CanBus one.
You need to be aware that the BuMW socket is a lightweight affair and can't physically take much load.
You are better off either ditching it, taping up the end of the wiring loom and putting a new (Nippy-sourced) socket in its place - wired to the battery via a fuse rated to allow you to use it usefully - you need about a 10A fuse as the problem with the current set up is that it won't allow more than 5A draw - so why replace it with the same limit? Lots of heated jackets etc run about 6-8A. You can also plug a non-BuMW charger into it.
Or put a second socket in place - which is what I did.

Hope that helps - Linky here with photos:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125673&referrerid=1012309

 

[John Armstrong]

Hope that helps - Linky here with photo's:

 

[Happyhenry]

..............and with acknowledgements to John Armstrong, whose photos also appear in said thread......................

 

[ExpatinIstanbul]

I fitted a cigarette lighter, from Nippy Norman's, so I could easily run my compressor. Connected it directly to the battery with an inline 15amp fuse (the supplied 10amp caused it to cut out constantly). No probs so far.

 

[VAL. H.]

Gentlemen, Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to cause any problems by disconnecting the socket.

Val,
there are loads of threads on this subject. I made a small bracket and put a second socket under the seat next to the CanBus one.
You need to be aware that the BuMW socket is a lightweight affair and can't physically take much load.
You are better off either ditching it, taping up the end of the wiring loom and putting a new (Nippy-sourced) socket in its place - wired to the battery via a fuse rated to allow you to use it usefully - you need about a 10A fuse as the problem with the current set up is that it won't allow more than 5A draw - so why replace it with the same limit? Lots of heated jackets etc run about 6-8A. You can also plug a non-BuMW charger into it.
Or put a second socket in place - which is what I did.

Hope that helps - Linky here with photos:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125673&referrerid=1012309

Henry,

Thanks for your link. Do you have a web address for the 'Powerlet Kit' people? I haven't seen the rear cover for the socket before, is it only available from the States, or can I get one here?

Val.

 

[Wapping]

Gentlemen, Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to cause any problems by disconnecting the socket.


Henry,

Thanks for your link. Do you have a web address for the 'Powerlet Kit' people? I haven't seen the rear cover for the socket before, is it only available from the States, or can I get one here?

Val.

http://www.powerlet.net/products/ptb.php

 

[Happyhenry]

http://www.powerlet.net/products/ptb.php

or same thing from the UK importer 'Woody's' at:

http://www.staintune.co.uk/index.php look under 'lighting & power'

if they have it in stock it's a bit quicker, but I've had several items direct from Powerlet in the U.S. and they give excellent service - normally arrives within a week. Buy the bits or they do kits for various bikes with all the parts.

 

[VAL. H.]

http://www.powerlet.net/products/ptb.php

or same thing from the UK importer 'Woody's' at:

http://www.staintune.co.uk/index.php look under 'lighting & power'

if they have it in stock it's a bit quicker, but I've had several items direct from Powerlet in the U.S. and they give excellent service - normally arrives within a week. Buy the bits or they do kits for various bikes with all the parts.

Thanks guys

 

[MacJ]

Power Socket

IMHO you should consider running the socket through a relay. Why not use the feed to the existing socket to drive the relay with a fused supply direct from the battery? In that way the supply would switch off shortly after the ignition is switched off. I would not trust myself to remember to disconnect accessories and end up with a flat battery - been there, done that not good!
Nippy Norman do a nice line in sockets for a tenner as well.
Mac J
<< I want to die like my father - peacefully in his sleep. Unlike his passengers who died screaming!>>

 

[VAL. H.]

IMHO you should consider running the socket through a relay. Why not use the feed to the existing socket to drive the relay with a fused supply direct from the battery? In that way the supply would switch off shortly after the ignition is switched off. I would not trust myself to remember to disconnect accessories and end up with a flat battery - been there, done that not good!
Nippy Norman do a nice line in sockets for a tenner as well.
Mac J
<< I want to die like my father - peacefully in his sleep. Unlike his passengers who died screaming!>>

Hmm interesting thought. I already have a spare socket that I intend putting in the beak to power the sat nav etc.
At the back I'm planning to have a removable charging facility, for radio batteries, phone etc, an off bike power supply box type device containing a compressor and power outlets for various electrical things like phone and lap top. This would then be connected to the bike to recharge whilst on the move.
Hooking the sockets up to a relay sounds like just the job. But; is a relay likely to take more that 4/5 amps? (the point at which the can-bus socket cuts out) I guess not. But what does a relay really need to power it's self up, and would it need a greater draw to supply two sockets?

 

[MacJ]

Relay

The current for the relay is minimal and well within the load on the auxilliary power socket supply from the CAN BUS. The number of additional sockets you fit to the load on the relay will not affect the power drawn from the CAN BUS but you will need some protection i.e. suitable fuses between the battery and the relay. You could if you wished also add further fuses after the relay to protect individual sockets.
I have connected the original socket under the saddle directly to the battery via a 20 amp fuse. This allows me to charge the battery directly from a non BMW charger (I use an Acumen) plus I have an independant supply when the bike's switched off. I've then used the original supply to the socket (red/green is positive) to drive a relay which powers a new socket at the front of the bike for accessories. The relay sits under the tool tray next to the existing relay.
I've now got the best of both worlds - a switched supply I don't have worry about leaving connected and an unswitched supply for occasional use and battery charging.
Mac J