Unsteady revs

RickSkye

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Hi
Can anyone with a LC hold the throttle at 2.5k revs without it missing at all?
On mine its just not smooth, but I wonder if its the digital throttle.
 
I think that you will need a magician to successfully do that trick.
 
I can't say I've particularly tried 2500 RPM, but my LC seems perfectly happy to cruise at whatever speed I engage cruise control at. Next time I get the opportunity I'll give it a go at 2500rpm and repost if it turns out that there's an issue (since I'm not a magician, its rather thoughtful of BMW to fit cruise control to do that 'trick' for me)!
 
Sorry, I should have said, just in neutral, not riding.
Though it does hunt a bit when holding steady throttle and riding.
 
Not holding a steady rpm is normal for a GS, my last 2 LC gs's have done it even when riding. I thought it was me not being able to be smooth with the throttle, then when I found that it did it even with the cruise control on, so it wasn't me. It is unfortuately BMW's super lean fuel setup, this can be fixed with a remap. Mine as done by Hilltop tuning, now a completely different bike.
 
Not holding a steady rpm is normal for a GS, my last 2 LC gs's have done it even when riding. I thought it was me not being able to be smooth with the throttle, then when I found that it did it even with the cruise control on, so it wasn't me. It is unfortuately BMW's super lean fuel setup, this can be fixed with a remap. Mine as done by Hilltop tuning, now a completely different bike.
Does it effect the warantee if you get it tuned I wonder?
As the tune up is so good, it would be blindingly obvious that it had been done. :-)
 
Does it effect the warantee if you get it tuned I wonder?
As the tune up is so good, it would be blindingly obvious that it had been done. :-)
If you had a problem that was caused by the remap I suppose it could. Many bikes have had their fuelling fixed by various methods, I have yet to hear of anyone having a problem.
My bikes have had warranty work done and BMW technicians have ridden both bikes, no problems.
 
damaging to rev / hold an unloaded engine at moderate / high revs warm or not.

I thought this was only relevant if you were hitting the rev limiter on an unloaded engine as this could actually exceed the limiter potentially causing damage. I can't see how holding a bike at 2.5k rpm on a constant throttle under no load would damage the engine (cold or warm)?
 
I thought this was only relevant if you were hitting the rev limiter on an unloaded engine as this could actually exceed the limiter potentially causing damage. I can't see how holding a bike at 2.5k rpm on a constant throttle under no load would damage the engine (cold or warm)?

I can't imagine why you would want or need to hold a bike at 2.5K RPM with no load.
 
I can't imagine why you would want or need to hold a bike at 2.5K RPM with no load.

Totally agree but I'm still curious why you think it would damage the engine? FWIW I've not bothered warming up a bikes for years. I always going easy for the first few miles anyway.
 
I thought this was only relevant if you were hitting the rev limiter on an unloaded engine as this could actually exceed the limiter potentially causing damage. I can't see how holding a bike at 2.5k rpm on a constant throttle under no load would damage the engine (cold or warm)?

Nope engine components designed to run against load 'free reving' them can cause damage to various components so best avioded, same goes for holding a bike, especially a big twin at high revs in low gear - always better to load the engine just advice - take it or leave it ;)
 
Went to dealer and tried out the demonstator today. Its the same as mine, in fact mine was a little better. :-)
 
Nope engine components designed to run against load 'free reving' them can cause damage to various components so best avioded, same goes for holding a bike, especially a big twin at high revs in low gear - always better to load the engine just advice - take it or leave it ;)

Seems reasonable, I'm no expert mechanic. I often just wonder though how many of these "best practices" are still relevant for modern engine design and manufacture.
 
Seems reasonable, I'm no expert mechanic. I often just wonder though how many of these "best practices" are still relevant for modern engine design and manufacture.

More relevant with newer engines, much better oil formultion helps but higher stressed engines, more over square piston strokes, near non existant piston skirts more complexity. Just best to run from cold start without reving hard until warm & not 'free reving' unnescisarily
 


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