Upgrade for my March 2003 1150 GS

Chev.

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Looking for a bit of upgrade for my March 2003 1150 GS (non-adventure, twin-spark, Servo/ABS,) with 25 K on the clock.

I’m after a bit more power, lower weight and even some more reliancy (preparation for longer trips).

  • Lower weight
    Remove servo/abs (please folks: Not another servo/abs-thread)
    Change of exhaust
  • More power (acceleration)
    Change of exhaust
    Powercommander(?)
    Anything else without going into the extremes as I’m not fanatic about the power?
  • Lower first speed
    What is the best way of doing that without lowering the gearing all over?
    If no good solution for lowering first speed only I would consider lowering it all, but I’m quite happy about the high 5th and 6th for riding on the autobahn.
  • Better clutch
    Want a more lasting clutch than stock.
I’m very happy with this bike, seems working absolute perfect, hence reluctant to trade it for a 1200. :clap
Believe I’ve read most of the relevant threads on this and a few other forums.

would be extremely thankful if anyone could provide some simple advice as to:
  • What to buy
  • Where to buy
  • How to do (easy rules of thumb)
Thanks and cheers :beerjug:
Chev.
 
You want reliability for a long trip - leave it as standard.
 
You want reliability for a long trip - leave it as standard.

Yeah, surely an option. But still I'd like some more power. The clutch smells, and lack some bite. Allso, don't think I could fix the servo/abs by myself in the middle of nowhere.

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Chev.
 
u can get a ceramic clutch, bit harsh though, a techtronic is a plug in power commander with adjusters instead, (i got good results),y piece/remus
gsa gearbox,
motorworks wont recomend the ceramic clutches thou, that says summat ?

servo? never had one so dont miss it, rode on bikes with them though,
clutch lacks bite? i do biiiig wheelys on mine, never a prob?are you slipping it too much? its not an r1, u dnt need to
 
motorworks wont recomend the ceramic clutches thou, that says summat ?

because the splines can still fail on the gearbox input shaft no matter what clutch friction plate you fit.
 
Yeah, surely an option. But still I'd like some more power. The clutch smells, and lack some bite. Allso, don't think I could fix the servo/abs by myself in the middle of nowhere.

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Chev.

Your not going to get any noticable power unless you go extreme. And thats not what you want for comfort on a long trip.

You don't need to fix the servo/abs, just learn how to bypass it. Even if you don't know how to bypass it it still won't leave you stranded anywhere, the bike is still rideable. And thats more important then getting anywhere a bit faster.
 
Your not going to get any noticable power unless you go extreme. And thats not what you want for comfort on a long trip.

You don't need to fix the servo/abs, just learn how to bypass it.

OK, probably fair enough.... (The boring truth??)

I did hope for the combination of 10 kilos less and 10 hp plus - without going to any extremes and withouth having the bike less reliable for longer trips.

Not realistic?

Anyway big thank you for yuor quick comments.
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Chev.
 
OK then,

Sounds like best solution for more power would be trading in for 1200 all the same. :aidan

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Chev.
 
Clutch

You sound as though your clutch is on the way out mines done 79000 and still going strong no sign of probs. (including a lot of of road),
dave gs.
 
stick with the 1150 and go on a diet....:hide


:) Yeah, but unlike many GS-riders I wouldn't benefit (personally) from loosing weight. I'm skinny enough, and i wouldn't wish for my legs to be any shorter.

Nevertheless, thanks for thinking about it :)

Would certainly prefer to keep the 1150, but I will have some more power to it. Can't really understand it should be that impossible taking into account the tiny difference in deplacement compeared to the 1200.

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Chev.
 
the 1200 is completely different to the previous generation bikes. displacement is only a tiny part of the reason it produces more power.

you can choose to ignore what steptoe said.

Your not going to get any noticable power unless you go extreme. And thats not what you want for comfort on a long trip.

but frankly I think you'll be making a big mistake.
 
RS/RT Top ends run higher compression,on paper with the right mapping +10 BHP?
 
the 1200 is completely different to the previous generation bikes. displacement is only a tiny part of the reason it produces more power.

you can choose to ignore what steptoe said.

Quote Steptoe:
Your not going to get any noticable power unless you go extreme. And thats not what you want for comfort on a long trip.

but frankly I think you'll be making a big mistake.

OK. You (and Steptoe) are probably right.

Remember, question in my first post in this thread relates to BOTH power and reliancy. If the answer to that combined question isn't to be found within the GS series I'd simply go for an all other bike.

Nevertheless thanks for helping me clarifying.

________
Chev.
 
RS/RT Top ends run higher compression,on paper with the right mapping +10 BHP?

Right, how much do want to spend - for a start without even giving it much thought the RT top end has a different exhaust ports requiring different exhaust downpipes or modified Rt pipes, a lot easier said than done, especially as if you don't do it right any theoretical BHP gained will be lost with a badly breathing exhaust system.

10 BHP is huge percentage gain for an 1150GS engine. Changing exhausts and altering things usually only alters the engine charateristics rather than out and out HP gain.
 
A changed exhaust (for power gain) is usually a noisier exhaust.

Ever done a REALLY long ride with a noisy exhaust??

:eek:

PG
 
Lose the cat. put a y piece in. Save weight. get new cat code plug to suit new setup. My bike has a bit of wire doing the same job:D
 


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