Valve clearance's ?

oblertone

Strawberry fields ... forever
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I have just read the information on the 'link' regarding setting valves on the GS. Very informative and appears to be a good 'step by step' guide which I will surely follow. However there appears to be one vital bit of information missing i.e. the clearances themselves. I can only assume these will be contained in the relevant bit of the Haynes manual ? The bike is a '97 1100GS.
 
Numpty !

Realised i've misread the tool list and that the required feelers are 0.15mm and 0.30mm.
 
Atempted to do this on my GS this morning, if you have H&B bars it's a mission. You need to take them off completely to get the covers out of your way or work with them in your face.

Second problem is if your'e alone and thinking of turning the motor with the back wheel good luck. Turn walk back to the inspection hole, turn walk back to inspection hole......eventually just reassembled everthing again and will leave it for a warm sunny day. It is probably easier taking the front cover off and turning the motor with a spanner while looking at the flywheel go past untill you find the OT mark. I could only find a S mark on mine and stopped before finding out whether there is OT or TDC or X marks on the wheel.

Think the flu is gone to me head.......:eek:
 
Single feelers

Does anyone konw of a source for single feeler gauges ? can't seem to find anywhere who does them other than in sets.
 
did my valve clearances 3 months ago - here's how.

1.whip the lhs valve cover off
2.do the inlets first - turn on ignition - 'tap' starter button so engine moves incrementally till exhaust pair are fully down.
3. set inlets to recommended minus 1 thou
4. repeat for exhausts
5.stick valve cover on
6. repeat for other side.

and i do know all about quietening ramps etc etc.

why minus 1 thou ? cos i like them quiet and i know nothing's going to happen to them.
used to run the 'guzzi's at minus 4 thou ! they literally rattled at std settings.

no need to remove covers or rotate back wheel or check timing marks - works every time.

Phil
 
maverick said:
Atempted to do this on my GS this morning, if you have H&B bars it's a mission. You need to take them off completely to get the covers out of your way or work with them in your face.

Second problem is if your'e alone and thinking of turning the motor with the back wheel good luck. Turn walk back to the inspection hole, turn walk back to inspection hole......eventually just reassembled everthing again and will leave it for a warm sunny day. It is probably easier taking the front cover off and turning the motor with a spanner while looking at the flywheel go past untill you find the OT mark. I could only find a S mark on mine and stopped before finding out whether there is OT or TDC or X marks on the wheel.

Think the flu is gone to me head.......:eek:

I managed to do mine (1999 R1100GS) without removing the bars but I did need to loosen them all round so it meant taking the tank off . With the quick release fuel line connectors the tank is off in a moment and loosening the bars only take a couple of minutes so it wasn't too bad. I did remove the front engine cover and used the lower pulley to find TDC . That was the tightest part because the H&B bars are quite close to the front cover but with a bit of creative swearing and cursing it went OK.
 
maverick said:
.

Second problem is if your'e alone and thinking of turning the motor with the back wheel good luck. Turn walk back to the inspection hole, turn walk back to inspection hole......

I took the spark plugs out first and stuck bike in high gear and the back wheel turned the engine over quite easily with one hand, without taking my eyes off the inspection hole. Mine's an 1150 but I can't imagine it'd be any different on an 1100.
 
You're supposed to......

maverick said:
Atempted to do this on my GS this morning, if you have H&B bars it's a mission. You need to take them off completely to get the covers out of your way or work with them in your face.

Second problem is if your'e alone and thinking of turning the motor with the back wheel good luck. Turn walk back to the inspection hole, turn walk back to inspection hole......eventually just reassembled everthing again and will leave it for a warm sunny day. It is probably easier taking the front cover off and turning the motor with a spanner while looking at the flywheel go past untill you find the OT mark. I could only find a S mark on mine and stopped before finding out whether there is OT or TDC or X marks on the wheel.

Think the flu is gone to me head.......:eek:
REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS......! Its easy to turn the motor then, or if you prefer to leave the plugs in then select third gear and you should be able to turn then....be careful to not force the bike off its stand.:)
 
Just done the tappets on a Rotax engined 604 CCM with 0.05mm gap. That was patience sapping! Any tips for the next time Mechanic?

(Apart from the usual throw it away, or get someone else to do it!):)
 
H&B Bars etc

Guys

I did my valve clearances during the week. I have H&B bars but did not have to remove them to get the rocker covers off. All I needed to do was loosen the two rearmost bolts on the bars - this was enough to give me enough clearance to remove the covers. No need to remove the tank at all.
Only problem with the H&Bs is that it is impossible to remove the alternator cover with the bars in place. Instead of using the ratchet on the flywheel pulley technique, I put the bike in 5th gear, removed the sparkplugs and got my missus to turn the rear wheel until the 'OT' symbol for TDC was seen in the inspection cover.
Job is really straightforward. Made a huge difference to my bike. The valves clearances were very very tight on both sides. Bike now sounds much sweeter and it drives much cleaner, with no more blurry mirrors !

Highly recommended.

Ferg
 


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