Very stiff clutch lever?

[NickC]

Hi

Recently had to change the clutch cable (as old one started fraying at lever) on my '88 R100GS. Since putting the new cable on the lever has become ridiculously stiff to 'pull in' and when I release it it seems much slower in 'springing back' and the whole action is no longer smooth - resulting in a jerkiness when disingaging and difficulty with slow speed control.

I have checked the new cable is moving freely within its sheath (which it is) and have also had the mechenism behind the clutch housing out and all seems to be moving freely.

Has anybody had a similar experience and/or know of a solution.

Many thanks

Nick

 

[Kenny]

Hi

Recently had to change the clutch cable (as old one started fraying at lever) on my '88 R100GS. Since putting the new cable on the lever has become ridiculously stiff to 'pull in' and when I release it it seems much slower in 'springing back' and the whole action is no longer smooth - resulting in a jerkiness when disingaging and difficulty with slow speed control.

I have checked the new cable is moving freely within its sheath (which it is) and have also had the mechenism behind the clutch housing out and all seems to be moving freely.

Has anybody had a similar experience and/or know of a solution.

Many thanks

Nick

Yup had it on my bike....faulty ( brand new ) cable inner that fails under load but feels free when off the bike. I ended up ( Vern was going to kill me ) taking the gearbox and clutch out before trying a cable off my other g/s. If I didn't have that spare cable I'd had been down to the crank by now. Motorw**s replaced mine under duress

More and more crap parts being sold by companies these days, they need to get their act together

 

[Rob Farmer]

I get through three or four cables a year on my PD. Just swapped a cable that's been on for 5 or 6 weeks, it's really free if you disconnect the cable and slide it through the outer but as soon as it's attached it creaks and is very stiff.

 

[electric_monk]

Don't take me the wrong way Rob, but I am so glad to hear that. It has been happening to me on both the GS and the K100 for the last couple of years. I always carry a spare on the bike because it eventually pulls the nipple off at the handlebar end.

I get through three or four cables a year on my PD. Just swapped a cable that's been on for 5 or 6 weeks, it's really free if you disconnect the cable and slide it through the outer but as soon as it's attached it creaks and is very stiff.

 

[MickDB1]

Without being sounding daft
You have routed the cable the right way havent yer
I too have had a inner come adrift and stiffen it all up - that were from Motobins - they swapped it mind
Why not swap it all for the hydraulic conversion that Wudo dooooooooo
I did try a prototype set up at Garmish a couple of year ago
light as a hydraulic aught to be

 

[cookie]

i find i have to ignore the bit about not oiling nylon lined cables quite frequently.

usually works a treat and never caused me any grief. dunno why you're not supposed to do it

 

[Vern]

Duff cable,Kenny had the same problem,but suffered a lot more having the gearbox removed from his person

 

[Thunder]

Experienced the same thing when I replaced the clutch cable on the Storm with a brand new one, cable felt fine off the bike but once fitted got progressively stiffer.

Ended up oiling and refitting the original cable which is smooth as silk. Faulty cable went back and was replaced, I'm keeping it as a spare just in case.

 

[Rob Farmer]

i find i have to ignore the bit about not oiling nylon lined cables quite frequently.

usually works a treat and never caused me any grief. dunno why you're not supposed to do it

Mineral oil will attack the nylon liner. I knew I chap who used a non setting silicone grease and a hydraulic cable oiler to keep his cables smooth but I've never been able to find a non setting grease that was viscous enough to use.

 

[Garry H]

I would not even consider putting a O.E cable back on my beemer after trying a venhill feather lite cable...
A bit more expensive but well worth the extra
They seem to last ages too..
Motoworks stock them

 

[electric_monk]

Venhill featherlight cables give me exactly the same problem.

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

I know it was mentioned earlier but the cable routing can make quite a difference. check where it passes the frame/crashbars.

 

[cookie]

Mineral oil will attack the nylon liner. I knew I chap who used a non setting silicone grease and a hydraulic cable oiler to keep his cables smooth but I've never been able to find a non setting grease that was viscous enough to use.

i've done dozens with 20w50 or EP90 forced in with an hydraulic oiler. it may have attacked the nylon liners but they work fine anyway

 

[Rob Farmer]

Venhill featherlight cables give me exactly the same problem.

Same here. The last few I've bought have been the standard Venhills.

 

[Thunder]

Same here. The last few I've bought have been the standard Venhills.

It was a Vernhill featherlight which was at fault in my case as well.

Is it just me or does that sound like a condom?

 

[fayeslane]

It was a Vernhill featherlight which was at fault in my case as well.

Is it just me or does that sound like a condom?

For all those watching this is precisely the point at which a thread starts to go downhill

Bring it on

 

[Beemerboff]

Lubing the lever pivot , the cable nipples in the levers either end , and the last inch or two of the wire where it exits the sheath can make a decent difference.

The instructions that came with the last Venhill featherlight I bought nominated cleaning the cables using a pressure thingy and spraying a cleaner like WD 40 through until it ran clear, and following up with a light oil.

The cables came in a sealed bag and were marked for GS/ 40 mm carbs but they were too short - I ended up trying to put the lock nut on the bottom but only succeded in breaking the lug of the carb top------.

 

[fayeslane]

I am a big fan of silicone spray. Would this be OK on "no oil" cables?

Seems to enhance the life of rubber bits eg. drive shaft dust cover, and is a good lube for where oil/grease isn't

 

[poulviking]

you got to be doing something wrong ,my original cable went to 220 000 k's and didn't brake, but I swapped it for the one I had under the seat since 110 000 k's. (for smoother operation)

only ever lubed the end nipples.

but you also can make your action a lot lighter by adjusting the better way( not bmw way)

arm behind gearbox just a fraction further out than parallel from gearbox.

lever slackened so it doesn't take up until you can just see the beginning of the nipple(this is about 6 mm ,bmw says 2 mm)
hard to explain, much easier to ride.

 

[NickC]

I know it was mentioned earlier but the cable routing can make quite a difference. check where it passes the frame/crashbars.

Will double check but I am pretty sure I am using the same route as the previous cable, though there is a potentially 'tight spot' behind the oiler cooler (as this has been moved up to behind the front mud guard to accommodate my HPN tank) which I will re-look at.

Thanks for all the responses - sounds to me (assuming the routing is ok) like it is a faulty cable!