Just measured mine.The distance of both clutch & brake from the bar to the levers is roughly the same when both levers are at rest. The adjuster is set at the mid position on both levers.
R1300GS clutch lever adjustment
- Thread starter leadfarmer
- Start date
Mine were nowhere near the same distance away from the bar. Even now that I've adjusted the clutch lever to better suit me, its still roughly 10mm further from the bar than the brake lever. Before I adjusted it, in the outer 2 positions, the end of the clutch lever was resting against the inside of the handguard and it was only in the innermost position that it didnt touch the handguard. When I showed this to a service advisor at my first service at N Oxford BMW a few days ago he told me there was nothing they could do which is how I ended up finding this thread!
Very strange that it touches the hand guard. Don't know how mine could even be made to do that even on the furthest out position.
Yup its weird. Never come across it before on any of my previous GS/GSAs
I was only aware of this one
Week 21 2023 – BMW – M 1000 R, S 1000 RR. Production dates: 7 October 2021- 8 February 2023, motorcycles equipped with a milled handbrake lever with part number 37728103376. A dimensionally inaccurate control pin can cause insufficient pressure compensation in and impaired function of the braking system, creating a risk of an accident. Click here for the original listing
vulcan1623
Registered user
I installed a set of the VMT levers on a 750GS and they were fantastic. Great adjustment range and the shape made them easy to grip and pull flush to the bars. Excellent product and very well made.
daveparkin
Registered user
Hi there, the paint is to show that it has been torqued to the correct setting when the bike is assembled. This is common practice in the automotive industry. Go and check your shocks on your car? There will be a dab of paint on the tops of them. I have done a couple of factory tours and all manufacturers do this to show the next stage in the process that they have been tightened. Anyone who tells you otherwise is full of it
I used to work or a German company as a mechanical engineer, the factory used to put a dab of paint on the screws that affected crucial settings of certain machinery they made, that should only be adjusted by qualified engineers. If these were tampered with by non-authorised engineers it would void the warranty if that setting caused the problem. Of course it was also used as an indication that this had been set correctly before leaving the factory.
I believe the colour coded blobs on the top of shock springs are to be sure they are balanced in pairs.
I believe the colour coded blobs on the top of shock springs are to be sure they are balanced in pairs.
Just to tell you otherwise, the screw in question is not an automotive shock bolt, it is a tiny 3mm screw that is turned to a specific point to adjust the relationship between the brake or clutch lever and their respective master pistons. The blob of paint is there because bmw does not want you messing with it as tightening it too much will result in brakes seizing or clutch slip due to the resting position of the master pistons
Has anyone tried the "BMW Enduro black" aluminium levers at all? - they look like they are more of a dog-leg style and may be closer to the bar (and presumably don't have any warranty-issues to contend with as they are BMW parts?)
they look pretty good - but they are nearly £300 for the set!!!
they look pretty good - but they are nearly £300 for the set!!!
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The bike I tried before buying had the enduro levers, I quite liked them but be aware they were shorties, so 2 or 3 fingers, not full length if that matters to you
brake is good but if you use 3 fingers on the clutch you'll be pressing on the ball end with that third finger
oh - i hadn't realised they are that short - they don't look it in the pics
thanks for clarifying - i might have to find one in a dealer to check out
thanks for clarifying - i might have to find one in a dealer to check out
Not pressing on the ball fully but it does crowd 3 fingers. I'm looking for a standard clutch lever
Just replaced the clutch enduro lever with a standard (oem) lever and it is so much nicer. Enduro brake is fine but not really better than the standard for me. Bike came with the enduro levers
Hey folks! Really useful thread.
I bought recently a R1300GS ASA, so no problem with the clutch!
That beig said, the front brake was too far out even on the closest setting (standard levers). I have a glove size L and I was barely able to make a quick transfer from throttle to brake. It really felt unsafe to me.
I decided to buy the MG lever, and transfered the same pivot "configuration" as per the video above.
Now, It's clearly closer to the handlebar, and I think also due the shape I can grab it much faster and apply much more pressure to the lever.
That being said, I still fill there is 2/3 of the space between the lever and the handlebar feels empty. Check this video:
You can check by looking at the brake light reflection, how much empty space I have. Do you consider this normal, In any of my previous bikes the bite point was much earlier.
Do you think I should adjust this through the pivot point? In that case, to bite quicker or have less empty space, my understanding is that I should screw it out, i.e leaving a bigger part of the pivot screw out. Is this correct?
What is really the risk of doing this too much? To leave the motorbike always braking a little bit? My understanding is that there is no brake at all until the brake light is not ON. Is this correct?
Thank you
I bought recently a R1300GS ASA, so no problem with the clutch!
That beig said, the front brake was too far out even on the closest setting (standard levers). I have a glove size L and I was barely able to make a quick transfer from throttle to brake. It really felt unsafe to me.
I decided to buy the MG lever, and transfered the same pivot "configuration" as per the video above.
Now, It's clearly closer to the handlebar, and I think also due the shape I can grab it much faster and apply much more pressure to the lever.
That being said, I still fill there is 2/3 of the space between the lever and the handlebar feels empty. Check this video:
You can check by looking at the brake light reflection, how much empty space I have. Do you consider this normal, In any of my previous bikes the bite point was much earlier.
Do you think I should adjust this through the pivot point? In that case, to bite quicker or have less empty space, my understanding is that I should screw it out, i.e leaving a bigger part of the pivot screw out. Is this correct?
What is really the risk of doing this too much? To leave the motorbike always braking a little bit? My understanding is that there is no brake at all until the brake light is not ON. Is this correct?
Thank you
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