Wedgetail Ignition

[casbar]

Ok for the hard of thinking:

I would build the bike, set tappet and end float (or better still upgrade the rocker bearings to shims), set the valve clearances, set the static timing, set float height, roughly set mixture screw, start it up, set the dynamic timing, ride it, fine set the carb mixture and balance.

I’d never just work off static timing otherwise you’d never know if the advance curve is working properly, would you?

Think you need to read the thread. Nobody is building a bike. All they are doing is replacing the ignition system on a running bike with the wedge tail system. And others seem to agree that with the system, static timing setup works fine

 

[Nin]

If you are using the original bean can the advance should stop at 3500 revs so you can set up the timing accurately at 3500rpm, but on the digital electronic ignition the advancing can carry on beyond 3500rpm so I don’t know how you can set it up that way. I have the BMW digital tuna can on my airheads and set it up using the static timing marks as others have said. It seems to work ok

You’re bang on. Unless you have replaced Alan the other components with new ones, there are many other sources of variability. So there’s only so far you can take it. The dynamic check takes seconds and is a good way of testing everything works mind.

 

[Nin]

Think you need to read the thread. Nobody is building a bike. All they are doing is replacing the ignition system on a running bike with the wedge tail system. And others seem to agree that with the system, static timing setup works fine

Do what you like, as I do.

 

[mikeyboy]

If you have a strobe,why would you not double check the dynamic timing?
I never set a wedgetail up static.
I’ve a good idea where the been can should sit.
I fit it thereabouts,fire it up and set it dynamically with a strobe.

 

[Mad Hatter]

If you have a strobe,why would you not double check the dynamic timing?
I never set a wedgetail up static.
I’ve a good idea where the been can should sit.
I fit it thereabouts,fire it up and set it dynamically with a strobe.

Mike do you set it so the maximum advance is at 3500 with the strobe?

What I found with the BMW tuna can is that if I set it using a strobe with the max advance at 3500 (using a carefully calibrated wife to hold the throttle steady and watch the tacho) it was then way out on the static timing and I was getting a hanging idle that took ages to settle down. If I set the static timing at 800-900rpm (using a strobe to get the static mark spot on in the middle of the window) then checked the advance at 3500 the Z was only just visible inside the top of the window but it carried on advancing outside the window if you increased revs beyond 3500.

I tried for ages to get both marks to line up but found that you could have one or the other but not both. I have three of the bmw tuna cans now and they’ve all been the same. I settled on getting the static (tick over) timing spot on with a strobe as it gave me the best idle

Not sure if it’s the best way of doing it but it seemed to work

 

[Posh Pete]

Looked at the price on 'bins (10% off currently) and it's still over 400 quid. So I reckon the beancan will be there a bit longer.

 

[mikeyboy]

I set the the timing so it’s correct at idle.

 

[SteveHop]

If you have a strobe,why would you not double check the dynamic timing?
I never set a wedgetail up static.
I’ve a good idea where the been can should sit.
I fit it thereabouts,fire it up and set it dynamically with a strobe.

Looked at the price on 'bins (10% off currently) and it's still over 400 quid. So I reckon the beancan will be there a bit longer.

I can't quite make up my mind , 600 odd quid for the duel setup , but then again in a year or two i will wish i had tried it .

 

[casbar]

I can't quite make up my mind , 600 odd quid for the duel setup , but then again in a year or two i will wish i had tried it .

The question for me is, why do I need a dual setup if nothing fails, and if something does fail, then I would be back to a single setup. So the only advantage is you don't get stranded. The chaps who make the system replied and said "for the average person, single would be fine" Not sure what that really means

 

[SteveHop]

The question for me is, why do I need a dual setup if nothing fails, and if something does fail, then I would be back to a single setup. So the only advantage is you don't get stranded. The chaps who make the system replied and said "for the average person, single would be fine" Not sure what that really means

Im planning a big trip overseas so a backup, if there were to be any problems would be nice. If i were just staying in this country then i would go for the single setup.

 

[Posh Pete]

If folk want a backup then take the original set up..

 

[Wierpig]

Ive just fitted one to my R100R.
Excellent qualty system, really well made.Easy to set up as there is a trigger led on the control unit.
Static set to S and off you go.More stable idle and great pick up from idle. Mine was a test system that motobins had on ebay. £300 well spent...

 

[SteveHop]

I was just reading the advance does not start to increase untill 1500rpm

 

[SteveHop]

I was just reading the advance does not start to increase untill 1500rpm

If folk want a backup then take the original set up..

I travel light

 

[robertotoole]

If folk want a backup then take the original set up..

The Wedgetail has different wiring and connectors, so would need to carry that as well as the bean can and ignition control unit. The starter cover has to be removed to get the wiring through.

 

[robertotoole]

Ive just fitted one to my R100R.
Excellent qualty system, really well made.Easy to set up as there is a trigger led on the control unit.
Static set to S and off you go.More stable idle and great pick up from idle. Mine was a test system that motobins had on ebay. £300 well spent...

Used mine this week, starting from cold in freezing conditions for the first time. The Wedgetail makes a big difference.

 

[Posh Pete]

The Wedgetail has different wiring and connectors, so would need to carry that as well as the bean can and ignition control unit. The starter cover has to be removed to get the wiring through.

Thanks. The video doesn't seem to suggest that (other than the starter cover issue) but I'll take your word for it. Possibly another reason to stick with the OEM system, given the price.

 

[mikeyboy]

The wedgetail fitment for post 81 bikes is plug and play.
Points in bean can replacements come with a new harness.
Points replacement kits come with a full harness.
I’ve fitted loads of these to all models and never needed to modify the oem wiring

 

[Nin]

^^^ That's my experience too. If you want electronic ignition, my recommendation is get a Wedgetail. If you don’t, don’t.

 

[robertotoole]

The wedgetail fitment for post 81 bikes is plug and play.
Points in bean can replacements come with a new harness.
Points replacement kits come with a full harness.
I’ve fitted loads of these to all models and never needed to modify the oem wiring

My Wedgetail had a different connector on the cable between the main harness and the blue can, i think. I had to take the starter motor cover off to thread it through.