Week in Jura

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Just back from a week in Jura region. I've passed through or nearby a few times over the years but for various reasons I've never really explored.

From last year's group of seven, three couldn't make it for various reasons. So four of us headed out - R1250GS, S1000XR, Ducati Pikes Peak thing, MV 1000 Brutale.

Popping to fill up with fuel on Friday, my bike wouldn't start at Tesco. It had started fine at home to get there. RAC called (breakdown cover with Hasting Insurance), man in a van turned up within 20 minutes, jump started the bike and followed me home. Confirmed the bike was charging, suggested battery might be knackered. Luckily Halfords had one in stock so collected that and fitted it Friday afternoon. Still a nagging doubt in the back of my mind though. Looking back, the old battery had been turnign the bike over slowly to start it. I didn't realise until the new charged battery was fitted and spun the engine MUCH faster.

Day 1 - Arduous 10-minute journey to Eurotunnel. No issues with EES as it's been postponed and now the French PAF don't even stamp your passport. Three of us had a fairly unexciting day, bit of autoroute as far as St Quentin, then N and D roads to overnight accommodation in Troyes (Hotel Akena, on a commercial estate, but they assured us the car park was locked all night and 24-hr reception staff there). Dinner int he Buffalo grill next door. Fourth member who had a delayed start due to a family commitment arrived around 7pm.

Day 2 - N and D roads all the way to Pontarlier. As planned, we didn't all ride together and made our own way there. Stayed in the Ibis hotel, again on an industrial estate but handy for two petrol stations and a huge Intermarche Hyper next door. Nothing special, but quiet and comfortable and good air con which became increasingly valued as the week went on.

Days 3 to 6 - various routes around the Jura, some pre-planned, some made up on the hoof. We had great weather. As was remarked at the time, it doesn't really matter where you go, the roads are all amazing. The Col de la Faucille, which is reached by three roads (one from Switzerland, two from France) was slightly blighted by one of the roads having been repaired and as a result, covered in gravel patches. But there were warning signs for most of the gravillons patches. Really pretty scenery on both sides of the Switz/France border. One day had LONG queues at the border crossing into Switzerland near Vallorbes - I reckon about a mile of stationary traffic - but luckily I was going the other way and sailed into France. I went the opposite way a couple of days later and was waved through the crossing that had been so busy after a couple of questions from the Swiss customs bloke. Obviously some random pattern to when and where the Swiss operate the border. I also got stopped in a couple of checkpoints within Switzerland where police were stopping everyone. Foreign vehicles seemed to get waved through though.

Lac de Joux in Switzerland is worth a trip - a nice little resort at the North end of the lake which is hidden in a valley. The scenery here is so Swiss that I think there must be a powerful government department that goes round enforcing standard appearance. All houses must have flowers outside, all the streets must be perfectly clean, and no smiling allowed!

Passed through Saint-Claude a couple of times - it lies on the junction of five roads, all of them sensational.

The Source de la Loue (the river that flows through Ornans) is worth a visit - the river emerges from a big cave at the foot of a huge limestoen cliff. Source de la Doubs and Source do la Dessoubre are the same thing on a much smaller scale! The Vallee de la Desoubre might be my new favourite ever road. Not from a pure biking point of view, but it is unremittingly pretty. The whole of the Parc National Regional du Doubs Horloger is wonderful. But anywhere north-east or south-west or Pontarlier is fantastic biking country. I didnt get to explore up around Lac Neuchatel - that'll have to wait for another trip.

It was getting progressively hotter as the week progressed, almost to the point of getting too hot. The original plan was to ride back in two days via an overnight stop in Verdun. But the roads between Pontarlier and Verdun (though nice by south-east UK standards) were never going to be particularly exciting. So rather than two hot 5 or 6 hour days on D roads and a stay in another unremarkable hotel, I made the unilateral decision to head home a day early in a longer dash from Pontarlier to Calais. (The others stuck to the original plan.) Temperature peaked at 37C on the way home but plenty of water and a few stops to cool down in Autoroute rest areas kept it bearable. Soaking a neck tube in water, and splashing water on thighs of mesh trousers, makes a huge difference. Left Pontarlier at 08:30, arrived at Eurotunnel at just after 16:00. Set cruise control for 125kph, rarely had to change it. For all the boredom of autoroutes, they are great for getting the miles done. Thank god for music playlist on the sat nav and decent in-ear monitors from Ultimate Ear!

The ET passenger terminal was heaving, and the notice boards mentioned ongoing delays to shuttles. I tried to sneak onto an earlier crossing than my hanger allowed, but was turned round by an officious steward. I was looking at a wait of over 2 hrs until my crossing which always feels like about a week! So I watched and waited until the person on guard at the car park changed, walked over and asked if I could go early, and she said yes! So I managed to get an earlier crossing after all. There was zero queueing at either French or UK controls.

Unfortunately yesterday, on the planned ride from Pontarlier to Verdun, the MV Brutale suffered from a flat battery at a petrol stop, luckily close to a little bike dealer who had the right battery in stock. New battery fitted, back underway but, alas, the bike wasn't charging so inevitably failed again. Recovery called and bike is now at an MV dealer near Verdun. The dealer doesn't reopen until Tuesday so Richard is currently in discussion with breakdown insurance through RAC to decide what's going to happen. Looks like they'll get him home* and he'll have to go out and recover the bike if and when it's sorted, but apparently parts supply for MVs is notoriously difficult - if it needs a new part (and it sounds like it could be rectifier/regulator failure) they might have to repatriate the bike. As usual with insurance, if it involves repatriation of rider or bike (or both) it all gets very complicated. The simple insurance statement of "If you're unable to ride your bike we will pay for you to get home another way" is a bit of an oversimplification of the situation regarding hire cars, trains, taxis, additional nights' accommodation... with little account taken of wanting to stay with your fellow travellers or how you're going to manage all your luggage as a foot passenger!

*Current position is that they're trying to arrange a hire car for him to drive to Calais, but last foot passenger ferry is at 19:00 and car hire company is a bit sniffy over a one-way rental. So we'll see how they resolve that. Option is for someone (i.e. me) to get a day trip ticket and pick him up if he gets to Calais after 19:00. Or he'll stay an additional night and travel tomorrow.
 
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Some observations:

Still seems to be a shortage of cafes in smaller French towns and a total absence in Swiss towns.

In France, if you can't find a petrol pump with 'pay at pump', you'll be expected to go in with your credit card and get pre-charged before you fill up. Then go back in to pay the actual amount taken. Twice I tried to find a petrol station with my Garmin in rural areas and it took me to places that were closed down.

No such kerfuffle in Switzerland.
 
Boulangeries are your best bet in small French towns as most have them. Many close at lunch time and do not always have a toilet so you need to plan ahead, buy a sandwich before noon, and make do with a cold caffeinated beverage.
Garmin's fuel database is rubbish. Most of the rural Elan petrol stations are no more. I tend to use Google Maps which is more up to date. Fortunately, it is rare for me to need fuel in a hurry with the 300 mile tank on the V85.
 
Some observations:

Still seems to be a shortage of cafes in smaller French towns and a total absence in Swiss towns.

In France, if you can't find a petrol pump with 'pay at pump', you'll be expected to go in with your credit card and get pre-charged before you fill up. Then go back in to pay the actual amount taken. Twice I tried to find a petrol station with my Garmin in rural areas and it took me to places that were closed down.

No such kerfuffle in Switzerland.
Don’t know where you were but I’ve never had to go in and get pre-charged with a card in France . In the USA all the time but never in France .
And the shortage of cafes in smaller French towns isn’t likely to improve .
But, as Wessie says, boulangeries are your best bet . Many sell filled baguettes and quite a few now have a small cafe section where you can grab a coffee or cold drink to go with a pain au raisin etc for brek
 
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As per another thread - we breakfast at the local boulangerie / patisserie most mornings.
Coffee and fresh croissant or sandwich.
Most are takeaway but some have a stool/counter to sit/lean on.
They are grateful for your money.

Greggs they are not
👍
 
I was thinking a weeks a long time in Jura, but realised it’s not the island you’re talking about. Lovely place but 1/2 day would be enough to see it all.


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oh, and the other places usually with coffee, beer, wine and sometimes food were mentioned in another thread, the PMU/bar/tabac
List here https://www.turfomania.fr/pmu-point-de-vente/
Usually have the red lozenge neon sign
carotte-tabac-rouge_entete_9524ad60-3669-4cf3-b446-022221d664c8.jpg
 
I was thinking a weeks a long time in Jura, but realised it’s not the island you’re talking about. Lovely place but 1/2 day would be enough to see it all.


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...and I've been on tenterhooks waiting for rapsodies on the fine beverage from Craighouse...doh!
 
I was thinking a weeks a long time in Jura, but realised it’s not the island you’re talking about. Lovely place but 1/2 day would be enough to see it all.


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Funny that was my first thought. The Paps were very clear from Portaneevy viewpoint (Co. Antrim) this afternoon as was Islay.
 
Don’t know where you were but I’ve never had to go in and get pre-charged with a card in France . In the USA all the time but never in France .
And the shortage of cafes in smaller French towns isn’t likely to improve .
But, as Wessie says, boulangeries are your best bet . Many sell filled baguettes and quite a few now have a small cafe section where you can grab a coffee or cold drink to go with a pain au raisin etc for brek
The pre-charge thing was universal for all four of us (in the absence of pay-at-pump machines). All around the Jura region and on the way there and back. I didn't need to fill up in Switzerland but apparently they did not require pre-charge.

I still have a £87 pre-charge outstanding on my Halifax credit card (equivalent to 100 euros).
 
Twice I tried to find a petrol station with my Garmin in rural areas and it took me to places that were closed down.

Try to chose stations attached to supermarkets, as that listing is more likely to be up-to-date,
 
Try to chose stations attached to supermarkets, as that listing is more likely to be up-to-date,
That seemed to be the best solution, but in the rural Jura there aren't Intermarches at every turn. Incredibly pretty landscapes, but it is very rural. In some of the villages there were miniature petrol stations, but very expensive prices. 2.40 a litre was the most expensive I saw, compared to 1.90 in towns and 2.00 on the autoroutes.
 
Beggars cannot be choosers.
It was never really a problem for me with a tank big enough for a fill-up in the morning (two petrol stations within a few hundred yds of hotel) to last all day if necessary. One of the group had a bike that returned mpg in the 30s, so was an issue for him with a relatively limited tank range.

(His MV is still in France. I brought him home yesterday in the car as he had commitments today. The breakdown recovery service, arranged through RAC, has been less than fully effective. And that's putting it mildly. Recovery was quick, but they initially sent a flat-bed with no ability to secure a bike. A different vehicle was sent, and the bike recovered to local depot. Then transported to a dealer 50 miles away, but the dealer weren't expecting it and refused to take it, so back to transport depot. Also, the dealer stopped being an MV dealer 4 years ago. The phone call the incident management company said they'd make but didn't would have resolved this.

They're trying to identify a dealer that can look at it, but we're hoping they decide to repatriate it instead. Richard is confident he could repair it himself if they get it home, and is wary of a dealer racking up huge costs to diagnose and replace bits.

They offered a hire car to get him to Calais where he could cross as a foot passenger, but then couldn't find a hire car company on a Saturday that would do a one-way rental. there was talk of flying him home, but little consideration given to how he would get to airport with all his luggage and kit.

All in all, it seems they don't do very much proactively.)
 
RAC will (in all probability) have subcontracted the whole recovery thing to a third party. Do you / Richard know to whom the RAC passed the baton to?

:beerjug:
 
RAC will (in all probability) have subcontracted the whole recovery thing to a third party. Do you / Richard know to whom the RAC passed the baton to?
I am sure that's the case. I think there are only a handful of companies that do this sort of thing. I am sure it will get sorted out, and looking back in a year or so it will all seem ok. It is just very frustrating at the time, made even more so because all it needs to make it so much better is the odd 2-minute phone call to keep you updated.

My own experience of a breakdown in Europe a few years ago (Grossglockner on a Sunday afternoon) was similarly disjointed. Recovery driver very keen to take me to his brother's car garage rather than BMW bike dealer, BMW dealer as surprised as anyone to find my bike on their forecourt on Monday morning... Promised phone calls and updates never happened. It was only because I wandered along to the dealer on Monday afternoon to ask what was happening, only to be handed my keys and told it was mended (fuel pump controller on a 1200GS - remember those?) that I could catch up with bikermates. If I was waiting for the call from the incident management people, I might still be there now. And that was nearly 20 years ago!
 


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