what are the overheating syndromes?

[bernardofeio]

Hello

I’ve just return from my holidays in Marrocos.

The bike (R100GS) behaved very well!


In the hottest days while dragging the bike in the hot sand or in the fesh fesh I had a strange “problem” that I still can’t’ understand.

what are the overheating syndromes?

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Hello

I’ve just return from my holidays in Marrocos.

The bike (R100GS) behaved very well!


In the hottest days while dragging the bike in the hot sand or in the fesh fesh I had a strange “problem” that I still can’t’ understand.

what are the overheating syndromes?

Let's start with what was strange problem

 

[Roger Chatterton]

sweating, dry mouth, and doing anything to get a cold beer. Any of these ?

 

[bernardofeio]

Engine cutting off at different rotations.

After I just hit the start button and the engine starts again with no difficulty but with a big flame in the exhaust!

ps: no cold beer in the desert!! (((

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

take your front engine cover off and the Bean can lid, and look at the plastic seperator plate to see if its distorted in the heat and effected your ignition, this was a common fault on police airheads..
It may be ok when cooled down but will reoccur when hot and normally fails completely later??.
may also be hot fuel vapour when carbs get to hot..

let us know.

 

[brassmonkey001]

Engine cutting off at different rotations.

After I just hit the start button and the engine starts again with no difficulty but with a big flame in the exhaust!

ps: no cold beer in the desert!! (((

Oh, I'm not going then.

So, was the engine dying like it was running out of fuel even though there was plenty in the tank? That might suggest fuel evaporating.

 

[brassmonkey001]

Engine cutting off at different rotations.

After I just hit the start button and the engine starts again with no difficulty but with a big flame in the exhaust!

ps: no cold beer in the desert!! (((

Oh, I'm not going then.

So, was the engine dying like it was running out of fuel even though there was plenty in the tank? That might suggest fuel evaporating.

Oh, and it's symptoms not syndromes.

 

[bernardofeio]

hello

ok ok symptoms instead of syndromes

The fist thing that I thought was vapour lock but if it was vapour lock the petrol would stop to flow to the carb right?

One of the symptoms it’s a big flame when I restart the engine so the petrol is flowing but it’s not ignited

I will check the bean can… could it be the ignition module?

 

[bernardofeio]

Some backfire in the desert it not too bad….

But in the middle of the city at 20:00 is not all that good! Everybody appear in the window to see where the gunshot was!

(The temperature was fairly cold)

“the plastic separator plate” in inside the bean can?


http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=20&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_20_IA_20&spPage=2


What is the best replacement option?

Electronic ignition trigger unit (1981 onwards ) | ELA44088

or

Ignition trigger unit with electronic advance (All 2VR 1981 on ) | ELA44087

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

The plastic plate seperates the trigger from the wire connector and cap.
I have taken a broken one out and resecured the wires and refitted the can and it worked for thousands of miles,( if your desperate)
It may be other problems like earth connections and ign modul but these would give a more irratic problem.
Also check your coils for cracks etc from heat expansion??.
Also try your ignition switch for inner tracking, this can ab caused by to many items on your key ring to water penertration which can break down the contacts and makes a bridge of copper that shorts the ignition,,

 

[Beemerboff]

Dud ignition witch was giving same symptoms on my G/S, they dont last forever and unless you run every circuit through a relay they carry a bit too much current too..

 

[bernardofeio]

I removed the front of the engine and after I removed the “bean can” lid. The plastic separator that you refer is the white or the black? Is possible to see it’s condition without dismantle the entire bean can?

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

If you use a torch, it is possible to see the seperator but just enough to look for and distortion in its shape, It would be better to strip the first alloy section off but don`t unless you are willing to give your self more work .
you could carfully mark the can`s position and take it off to inspect better but again, the bike should need its timing checked afterwards..
If the bike is running ok, you can test the can by running the engine for some time to heat it up to the point of cutting out, but you then risk killing your bean can ..(there not cheap)
Please go through all other options first.

 

[bernardofeio]

ok

I will have a look this evening.


BTW:

Which are the alternatives to the bean can?

Original 260£
Motorworks 263£
MotoIsrael 358€ (includes coil)
Richard Moore 560£
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