What mileage do things start to go wrong?

Marathon Biker

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Hi,

I'm after a great value for money (cheap!) 1150GS after selling my V-Max.

I was wondering what you guys thought about buying an 1150 with high mileage?

Apart from drive shaft issues, bearings etc. what else should I look out for on a bike with 50K+ miles on the clock?

EG.
When do cam chains/tensioners need swapping out?
How many miles can you expect from a clutch?

Thanks in advance of your assistance, Simon.
 
It's pot luck. My bike has turned 48k, mostly in my hands, since it was registered in 2000. Apart from routine servicing it has needed a new rear calliper (premature failure, partially funded by BMW at 18k, 2.5 years) and a couple of seals in the final drive at 36k. Others have been less lucky with clutch failures at 35k, electrical faults and corrosion.

There isn't a camchain. Valves are pushrod. Alternator belt needs changing periodically. I had mine done at 36k.

Being aware of differences helps. I've noticed weird twitches in the rear which has resulted in noticing play in the final drive. Getting the paralever bearing adjusted at the next service has probably meant that I have prevented a total failure (twice in 48k is hardly a worry). Same with the seals: if you or your mechanic notice the oil weep then you can fix the fault before it develops into a major problem.

I guess it helps having a competent mechanic. Mike, now running his own business at Cardiff Motorrad, started servicing my bike in 2002 when he was at a BMW dealer in Cardiff. It's going in again in a few weeks for the annual/48k job.

Hence, getting a decent history of the bike, a provenance, is worthwhile. A bike owned by someone for a long time is likely to be a better bet than a tart that has changed hands often. Also, the 1150 sold in huge numbers so there should be plenty of used parts available to fix the things on the cheap. No fancy electronics so you don't need to be a rocket scientist to fix them.
 
The 11xx series will go on for ever. Plenty of examples with 100k, 200k and even 400+k miles on the clock.

The majority of the parts are standard that you can get from non BMW places (e.g. bearings etc) and BMW still supply parts for 1980s GS bikes so they're probably not going to stop selling them for the 1150 any time soon.

50k miles the engines are just getting run in. At that distance I'd check the Rear shock if still original may need to be re gassed / refurbed. About £150.

Other than that they're mostly bullet proof - the engines are a simple design. There is an uprated tensioner but that is to stop the noise of the chain until the oil pressure has built up rather than anything else.
 
My 1150 now has 89000miles on it still going well, if it has been used for a lot of commuting thats when the dreaded clutch and gear box shaft may get worn. 1150's have a high bottom gear and this some use the clutch a lot if going through london (or similar) traffic every day. I put a slightly lower ratio bevel box on mine from an 1100 and it is some much more tractable in traffic
may have lost a slight amount in top end but who goes racing on a gs anyway. Good luck with your search take an experienced tosser with yopu when you have a look and don't dive in too quick there's plenty about especially on here in the bikes for sale section so pay your subs and have a look.
Dave GS.
 
Whoa! Thanks for the quick and informative replies guys!! Glad to hear that the engines are sooooo solid :)

Both my brother and myself are trained mechanics. We stripped and rebuilt my V-Max Quad Cam V4 motor last year and he is currently building a Hard-Tail Chopper with Hyabusa front end and a 1200 Bandit engine, so I'm hoping that the Four Valve Boxer should not be too much trouble.

I just need a list of things to look out for when I go to look at a few 1150's.

How do the plastic items (switch gear, etc.) stand up to time and mileage, do they go brittle or fade?

My plan is to strip the bike apart (down to the frame) over the winter and have most of the parts cleaned/shot blasted and re-painted/anodised (possibly down to respoking the wheels). Then re-build it to my own specification - Hence why I don't want to pay too much in the first instance.

Whilst doing this I would also like to attempt building my own pannier system and an engine/oil cooler/headlight protector.

If the plan comes together I will post a thread with progress photo's and write up.

Thanks again, Simon.

PS Just a thought - Why do you make the 'For Sale' section inaccessible unless the user pays? I would of thought being able to buy a bike via the forum was an ideal way of attracting new members who will go on to become full members!!
 
davegs said:
My 1150 now has 89000miles on it still going well, if it has been used for a lot of commuting thats when the dreaded clutch and gear box shaft may get worn. 1150's have a high bottom gear and this some use the clutch a lot if going through london (or similar) traffic every day. I put a slightly lower ratio bevel box on mine from an 1100 and it is some much more tractable in traffic
may have lost a slight amount in top end but who goes racing on a gs anyway. Good luck with your search take an experienced tosser with yopu when you have a look and don't dive in too quick there's plenty about especially on here in the bikes for sale section so pay your subs and have a look.
Dave GS.
Click to expand...


i heard yours was like Triggers broom:hide:D
 
Like the man says, pot luck. But not much has gone wrong with mine in 50k. It's needed a new alternator, Hall sensors and, er, that's it.

Planning on keeping it.
 
Marathon Biker said:
PS Just a thought - Why do you make the 'For Sale' section inaccessible unless the user pays? I would of thought being able to buy a bike via the forum was an ideal way of attracting new members who will go on to become full members!!
Click to expand...

Alternatively, only subscribers see the items for sale and get in before a lurker gazzumps them.

In answer to your query, there are no hard & fast rules as far as the finish goes. I've seen some bikes of a similar age as mine with immaculate finishes as they are used for summer touring and get polished every weekend.

My bike is starting to rust. Seams on the engine cases, mirror stems. Thay has got worse in the last 12 months as I've been commuting on it over winter. Switchgear is fine. I'm quite happy with it for a 10 year old bike.
 
Marathon Biker said:
PS Just a thought - Why do you make the 'For Sale' section inaccessible unless the user pays? I would of thought being able to buy a bike via the forum was an ideal way of attracting new members who will go on to become full members!!
Click to expand...

subscibing will be the best £12 youll spend on the bike:thumb2
 
Mines got around 130k the engine and gear box are as sound as a pound, replaced plenty of everything else mind but to be fair it's been hammered through more winters than i care to remember and i don't really clean it. Do keep on top of the servicing though. On balance if you are contemplating taking it down to the frame i can't see anything that will really cause you too much stress even if you do end up replacing things.

Ok you might have to apply industrial levels of heat and brute force to the old tractor but I guess you probably know that:D
 
Thanks guys. Much appreciated :)

How easy/hard is the clutch to replace? Never worked on a boxer engine, apart from changing the plugs on a Nissan Cherry GTi.

@ rudiemoto - Love the pic :)
 
If I can do it anyone can just takes a bit if time, flip the subframe up and gear box off. Mine only went after the clutch slave cylinder leaked and contaminated the plates so they are generally pretty good.
 
64,500 miles since Nov 03. One owner, ridden all winter every winter. Allergic to cleaning, would rather ride. ACF50 is your friend, unfortunately the damage was done before I discovered that little fact so it will be a similar strip and refurb to that which you are planning this winter.

  • 2 new coils sticks. New ones are supposed to be more robust than the originals. Pull them and check for rust or splitting.
  • 2 new output bearings & seals for the FD, first at 26,500 miles and then 60,800 miles.
  • 1 new input seal and sleeve for the FD. Changed the paralever/FD pivot bearings at the same time.
  • 2 Front brake calipers, killed by salt, as I say I'm allergic to cleaning.
  • Speedo cable and drive, my fault, twice.:blast Put your disc lock on the right disk:augie
  • Upgraded suspension at 36,000 but the originals weren't too bad.

Apart from that it's just service items, oil & filters every 6,000 and proper service every 12,000 and some additional annual check items.

You will want to upgrade the headlights if you ride at night or in winter. HID's, a no brainer.
 
chad said:
i heard yours was like Triggers broom:hide:D
Click to expand...

That's why my names dave! like I say if the fork seals need replacing just hit a truck and get new forks!
Dave (I can smash up anything!) GS
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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