What part of the bike touches down first?

I think there's a danger that focussing on "how far can I lean the bike" sets you on the wrong path to going fast on the track. Still I tend to overthink this stuff as I'm borderline Rainman.

Get yourself the "A Twist Of The Wrist 2" DVD, it covers riding technique from A-Z, typically Turning in too early, Turning the bike too slowly and apexing too soon leads to needing far more lean angle for a given speed.

Years ago I was on a Race School on an FZR400RR at Cadwell, I was going through park hanging off, knee on the deck with pegs and silencer grounding out and thought I was going quite well....

Then Paul Brown came underneath me about 15mph faster just after I apexed, he was holding a tighter line and not decking out at all - on the exact same bike.

If you can stretch to it book yourself on one of the CSS Schools, Levels 1 and 2 are great for road and track riders and will definately make you faster and safer - but at £15 the DVD is a must watch :thumb
 
Oh Gawd he's off again ........ :D
 
So to sum up..... If you are riding with your feet in the usual boot heel against the peg then the toe slider will touch first, if you are on the balls of your feet then the centre stand should be next :thumb
But on the other hand if you have certain crash bars ftted then you may be taking a ride on board a little yellow helicopter :tears

Thanks guys happy with that.
 
I have had my boot touch down a few times but never any part of the bike which is a 1200GSA. Have been told though by others following that the panniers are very close to touching down so I'm guessing those are the next to ground if I ever feel brave enough to push it further. Doubt I'm going to try though because I feel at the limit of my skill level as it is with just the boot scraping.
 
I find that my foot touches first. So I often stick it out a little so I can feel the ground comming 'as it where'.

I ride on TKC's and find that the feedback is very good at extream angles and in the wet. You can feel the TKC's 'walking' (or creeping) when cranking the bike over. This tels me we are far enough and it's time to shift my weight a bit, or to back off a little.



Val.
 
:thumb .... Along with focusing on trying to get yer knee down. :D

How true!:thumb
I watched some plonker on a R1 go round and round a roundabout the other day trying to prod the ground with his knee, he looked like he was riding around a thruppeny bit . . total tit :blast
 
+1 for the pegs at Cadwell on a Hopp Rider day :D

Not as impressive as one on the instructors grinding down his panniers on a GSA though...
 

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The Cadwell Instructor (also seen at Snetterton) managed to scuff the edge of the crash bar his brand new GSA when I was there a month ago.

Bike had ESA and he sets it to sport with pillion and luggage. Tyres were 32 psi front and back. (Also helps if you are not a mere mortal).

He went past an R1 the long way round Coram, giving away 50+ bhp and loads more weight.

There no substitute for ability!
 
has anyone with a GSA touched down, besides their panniers?

No panniers fitted at the time and I was on my own on standard settings.

IMG_3675_1024x768_.JPG


First pegs and then sidestand. Wasn't aware of anything else touching down.

Only had the bike for about 40 miles :eek:
 
No panniers fitted at the time and I was on my own on standard settings.

IMG_3675_1024x768_.JPG


First pegs and then sidestand. Wasn't aware of anything else touching down.

Only had the bike for about 40 miles :eek:


Impressive! When the rust has set in you could try a warranty claim like everyone else with corrosion on a 12 :augie
 
Here are some lying down pictures
Points to make on my 07GSA fitted with TLC80 knobblies and I mention this in case it makes the bike lie differently:D

Point 1 The GSA leans over a bl**dy long way before anything touches the ground. Far furter that it ever will with me riding it:
i-xvvdqxj-L.jpg


Point 2 It is undoubtedly always your toe which will touch first, especually if you have big feet, then the footpeg, then the front engine bar and nearly the head protector:
i-XmWbzbg-L.jpg


Point 3: On my GSA, the sidestand never touches the ground, see above pic

Point 4: On my GSA, the centre stand never touches the ground:
i-tQtLhPF-L.jpg


Point 5: on the right side, footpeg first:
i-3b2PGJD-L.jpg

followed by right side cylinder protector:
i-PKxbcT5-L.jpg


Note that the front right side cylinder head protector touches before the crash bar, which on my bike does not touch the ground.

Point 6: For the fantacists out there, your handlebars will remain 13 inches above the ground and will not touch down unless the bike starts to up end. Similarly the remaining crash bars do not touch down:
i-KKZNSCW-L.jpg


So there you go, too much time on my hands and I need to get out more :D

The bike will tip further in extreme crashing conditions, but I have no experience of this
Point 7: And my final point, once the heads hit the deck, your front wheel WILL lift, naturally and YOU ARE ON YOUR ARSE
I am having to hold the bike up a little to keep the front wheel on the ground:rob
 
Here are some lying down pictures
Point 8
in your photos the bike's suspension is fully extended as there neither bikes or riders weight on it and no cornering forces.

So back in the real world and on my GSA the order is Peg then Sidestand. I haven't been brave or daft enough to see what happens next.
 
Touch down

Stactic interpritation is good but you must allow suspension travel into the equation as the bike is not solid and stiff but a flexable chassis :thumb
 


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