What type of pop rivet?

[shedracer]

I,m thinking of either powder coating or anodising the BM gs12 Adv alloy panniers, so will need to take all the plastic and metal fittings off.

Does anybody know what type the pop rivets are used on the panniers and what type of pop rivet gun is needed to use them?

 

[John Armstrong]

Nuts and bolts! A lot easier DAMHIK.

BM supply them with replacement corners, again DAMHIK.

BTW I reckon that it's best to drill the head off that's on the inside, again DAMHIK

 

[alimey4u2]

If it's pop rivets you especially want, (those fitted are not "pop") replace with "blind, wide flange".....(sounds like an old girlfriend..)

 

[POG]

Mmmmm I have looked at this in the past but haven't got round to it yet. It is a fairly labour intesive way to go but very do-able. The stripping can be done by one's self but the re-assembly would probably be best entrusted to a firm specialising in such an operation. There's bound to be a company in your area that does blind riveting, approach them for a quote. I haven't had the time to do it yet, but GO FOR IT. It will be a first for the site, so let us all know how you get on, prices, piccies, etc etc

 

[John Armstrong]

If it's pop rivets you especially want, (those fitted are not "pop") replace with "blind, wide flange".....(sounds like an old girlfriend..)

And stainless as well

Probably a nightmare to get them waterproof as well.

Nuts, washers and bolts

 

[shedracer]

Thanks guys, will be looking into it further in January.

 

[Flipfly]

Try a domed Torx cap screw in Stainless Steel and then drill out the Torx recess for security. A domed nut with a spring washer on the inside will mean that you won't rip your pannier liners (if you use them).

Because they are Ally boxes you must use Stainless as normal plated carbon steel will react (zinc being the less noble material acts as a sacrificial anode to protect the Carbon Steel, causing it to rust quickly. When the carbon steel touches the Ally, the steel will go hidiously rusty and the ally will start to disintergrate!!!!). You have been warned.

 

[John Armstrong]

Try a domed Torx cap screw in Stainless Steel and then drill out the Torx recess for security. A domed nut with a spring washer on the inside will mean that you won't rip your pannier liners (if you use them).

I'll try a post some photo's tomorrow on the ones I was supplied with for a replacement plastic corner. But they're just like the ones on the latches / hinges etc.

 

[Blackal]

Try a domed Torx cap screw in Stainless Steel and then drill out the Torx recess for security. A domed nut with a spring washer on the inside will mean that you won't rip your pannier liners (if you use them).

Because they are Ally boxes you must use Stainless as normal plated carbon steel will react (zinc being the less noble material acts as a sacrificial anode to protect the Carbon Steel, causing it to rust quickly. When the carbon steel touches the Ally, the steel will go hidiously rusty and the ally will start to disintergrate!!!!). You have been warned.

Hang on.............

Both Zinc and Alumimium offer good protection to carbon steel due to being natural anodes, so...........

why does zinc, acting "as a sacrificial anode to protect the Carbon Steel, causing it to rust quickly"


Any carbon steel touching aluminium panniers (for example) will be protected, not diminished.

I agree with the sentiment of using stainless steel rivets, just not your reasons for it

Al

 

[alimey4u2]

OK, now we're on stainless screws.... Self sealing...