What Wire?
- Thread starter GrumpyTwo
- Start date
16 gauge or bigger should do you.
In new money, oy fink thats aboot 1mm
In new money, oy fink thats aboot 1mm
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depends on what sort of lights you are fitting
led lamps draw a lot less current than halogen so you need to know how many amps the lamps will draw and use an appropriate instalation,relays etc
led lamps draw a lot less current than halogen so you need to know how many amps the lamps will draw and use an appropriate instalation,relays etc
Bendy toy
Registered user
For what little extra they cost I like to use relays on halogen lights. They (usually) keep the wiring neater and make sure max voltage gets where its needed.
At a guess 1mm wire should be ok. But this is more reliable:
http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761
At a guess 1mm wire should be ok. But this is more reliable:
http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761
Oh shucks, now you have just gone and confused things further. I am electrically challenged, last time I done anything electrical in the house I managed to weld the screwdriver to the socket back box. And yes I thought I had turned the electricity off.
I’ll probably set the bike on fire.
I’ll probably set the bike on fire.
I found this site whilst looking for information for the "electrically challenged" lots of little calculator things and useless information, tap & die chart anyone.
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html
juddadredd
Registered user
Blimey if you don't know the guage or length of wire then why mess around and risk fucking things up just go to the www.hid50.com Aux lighting page.
Go there buy kit, fit kit, no brainer matey, and if your the type to go moaning about the price of the kit then wait until service time for your bike, and your'll be all - how do I do/can I do/do you know how.
Go there buy kit, fit kit, no brainer matey, and if your the type to go moaning about the price of the kit then wait until service time for your bike, and your'll be all - how do I do/can I do/do you know how.
Bendy toy
Registered user
If the OP's electrickey is that tricky 
it may be best to get an auto electrician to do the job. You can save money by removing the bike's covers beforehand.
http://cartech.about.com/od/DIY/ss/Diy-Car-Wiring-Tips.htm
If you wire the new circuit completely, fit an inline fuse and test everything BEFORE anything is connected to the bike's electrical system, there is little harm to be done.
If the new circuits are totally separate from the bike's Canbus they won't "need" a relay, but one can be used to isolate the new circuit when ignition is off. That way you wont accidentally park the bike with spot lamps burning.
If the bike does not already have spot lamps there is a connector built into the wiring loom under the fuel tank somewhere.
it may be best to get an auto electrician to do the job. You can save money by removing the bike's covers beforehand.http://cartech.about.com/od/DIY/ss/Diy-Car-Wiring-Tips.htm
If you wire the new circuit completely, fit an inline fuse and test everything BEFORE anything is connected to the bike's electrical system, there is little harm to be done.
If the new circuits are totally separate from the bike's Canbus they won't "need" a relay, but one can be used to isolate the new circuit when ignition is off. That way you wont accidentally park the bike with spot lamps burning.
If the bike does not already have spot lamps there is a connector built into the wiring loom under the fuel tank somewhere.
Where would be the fun in buying a kit or paying someone else to do the work for me? And now I know how to work out what gauge wire I need for the job, mission accomplished.
Now if I can just work out what the feck a relay does I'll be an expert
Now if I can just work out what the feck a relay does I'll be an expert
In simple terms the relay is a switch operated electrically.You would need a 4 pin relay the terminals are marked as follows.
30 - positive battery supply fused
87 - to the lights you are fitting
86 - positive supply from the switch you are using
85 - earth
The relays joins 30 to 87 when you operate your switch which take the current from your battery supply removing the load from the switch.
If you are fitting 2 x 55 watt spotlights these will draw 10 amps,so your switch needs to be able to handle that or you need to fit the relay.
30 - positive battery supply fused
87 - to the lights you are fitting
86 - positive supply from the switch you are using
85 - earth
The relays joins 30 to 87 when you operate your switch which take the current from your battery supply removing the load from the switch.
If you are fitting 2 x 55 watt spotlights these will draw 10 amps,so your switch needs to be able to handle that or you need to fit the relay.
It is 2 x 55w lights I am fitting so thanks for your reply, what a great explanation of relays, simple and just what I needed.
No problem,if you want any other info pm me.
Blimey if you don't know the guage or length of wire then why mess around and risk fucking things up just go to the www.hid50.com Aux lighting page.
Go there buy kit, fit kit, no brainer matey, and if your the type to go moaning about the price of the kit then wait until service time for your bike, and your'll be all - how do I do/can I do/do you know how.
If we all did that, we'd have no need to post on a forum and risk educating ourselves...
Yes. Don't fit a 7.5amp fuse. It wont last long DAMHIK
And don't forget where you put it
I've remembered now
morty
Registered user
when your buying your cable buy thin wall,its thinner and has a higher rating than normal cable & is for all automotive equipment.
when your buying your cable buy thin wall,its thinner and has a higher rating than normal cable & is for all automotive equipment.
Watch that thin wall stuff. If its going across your head stock as it has less abrasion resistance.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Get a good supply of heat shrink sleeve to reinforce any soldered joints and areas where it more likely to get moved about. Don't zip-tie anything down too tight or the wires will break at the tie down points. A good quality flexible wire is always better than cheap stiff stuff. The cheap stuff has fewer, thick strands of wire more likely to fatigue and snap.
Connectors can be crimped but a dab of solder and heat shrink over is better in the long run. W crimps are the best. The two sided oval type tend to get loose after a while and are prone to corrosion.
These should be helpful
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
Connectors can be crimped but a dab of solder and heat shrink over is better in the long run. W crimps are the best. The two sided oval type tend to get loose after a while and are prone to corrosion.
These should be helpful
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
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