When hot after a couple of miles it will hardly run.

[Gavin4333]

2001 1150GS 46,000 miles.

The other day I set off for work (dry and cold) but after 2 miles it started to cough and splutter and had to be revved to 5 or 6 thousand to keep it running, if the revs dropped it just stopped dead. It would eventually restart but only with the throttle wide open and reving the hell out of it, with lots of back-fireing. I limped it home and left it for the day - when I got home at the end of the day it started and ticked over fine in the garage. As it was peeing down with rain I didn't ride it.
Over the weekend it started fine when cold but again after a couple miles it wouldn't run and had to be limped home, left it for half a day and it started ok (didn't try riding it again though).
It starts playing up when 2 bars are showing on the temp gauge, it's almost as if an old style 'choke' has been left on and therefore won't run when hot.

Any, and all, advice would be welcome.

 

[paddy dougan]

Coil Pack/ leads ??

Sounds like the coils pack is on its way out and is breaking down when hot.

Find a mate and swap them over to be sure. It could also be the Hall sensor starting to let go. I would start with the coil pack though.
cheers,
P

 

[turbine_2]

Other thing I would be looking at would be something stopping the fuel getting in. Something like a blocked tank vent. The timing of the problem could be just down to the fact it takes about the same time to get to two bars.
Try running it at idle until the engine warms up to see if it's temperature related.

 

[Possu]

Hall Sensor, symptoms resemble those on my bike when the sensor failed.

Another option could be the Lambda Prode, if it fails, it provides incorrect info to the ECU, leading to poor fuelling.

 

[davegs]

Tank

Could be a fuel filter how old is it? if the "dealer changed they might not have done!.
dave ( I hate christmas) GS.

 

[Gavin4333]

I'll give it another go tonight and see if it plays up if left on it's own, I changed the fuel filter a few thousand miles ago so I'm happy with that. A sensor of some type sounds likely...is there a way of actually testing them? Sounds a bit expensive to start replacing things.
Fuel breather sounds a possibly as well.

 

[Steptoe]

serious question - Do you leave it parked on the side stand ??

 

[Gavin4333]

No, not ever...is there a tip-over-valve then?

 

[Steptoe]

No, not ever...is there a tip-over-valve then?

i had a bike in that had the exact same symptoms as yours. When it warmed up ( two bars) it would run rough and cut out.

it turned out it was parked on the side stand, so when it was ridden away it took a couple of miles for water in the tank to flow over to the R/H side where it was picked up by the fuel pump.
Nothing to do with the bike/engine temperature

 

[Colban]

You have a single spark motor,so i doubt if it is the coils.They are only a problem on the twin spark.
Only a problem when hot....what colour are the plugs?
Overfueling/water in fuel due to blocked drain pipe.
Engine temp sensor u/s and not telling ECU its warm and still supplying cold engine fuelling.Hall sensors and O2 probes already mentioned.
A trip to the BWM workshop with all their diagnostic kit might be in order.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

sounds like hall sensor to me

 

[VAL. H.]

Hall Sensor, symptoms resemble those on my bike when the sensor failed.

Another option could be the Lambda Prode, if it fails, it provides incorrect info to the ECU, leading to poor fuelling.

First thing to do is take the bike to a BW dealer and have the fault codes read. It'll cost you £18.00 +vat. They'll be able tell you what 'if anything' comes up.

Your problem sounds similar, though not exactly the same as the problem we had with the 650gs. After checking every thing else we discovered 'after eventuallyhaving the fault codes read' it was the Lambda sensor.
These things are very expensive if bought from BMW (£129.00 each plus fitting )

However there are another couple of options. I ended up buying one from ebay 'about £15.00 delivered' then there is a bit of research and wire cutting/joining to be done. Since then I have found this company http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=O2-022 They supply them as straight plug and play, which is much easier.

As I said above similar but not necessarily the same. Try swapping suspect parts with a bike that you know works, and test those bits on both those bikes. If the symptoms transfer to the other bike, you'll have found the duff part, and can get it sorted easily. Unfortunately though, sometimes only part of the symptoms are noticeable which of course means more than one part is potentially duff

HTH Val.