Where to Lube?

[Dan Glibitz]

As Mr Cautious, my new 1200GS is still sitting in my garage with zero miles on it, a month after taking delivery!

Having had terrible "Road Salt" corrosion issues with Hondas in the past and similar, though not as bad with past 1100GS's, I've since been paranoid about taking my past 1150GS's and even more so, my new 1200, out in the bad weather (Though I imagine this may change after a few thousand miles as the novelty and shin wear off)

So I keep reading the links and threads on this site and doing all the mods but whilst my bike is still pristine, I'd like to do all the lube / ACF-50 / WD40 preventitive spraying. I get the idea that the following parts are advisedly sprayed but can anyone add any suggestions please?

1. Rear Light contacts
2. Trianglular black plastic thing behind the engine, infront of the shock (Thanks Mouse) that contains the gear indicator display contacts apparently.
3. The bolts that hold on the front engine cover, to prevent the dreaded paint corrosion

I do such few miles in a year that my warranty will be long run-out by the time any gremilins appear, so prevention being better than cure and all that.

 

[sjwb]

If I may be so bold as to suggest;
Wash it every time you use it in inclement weather and just as importantly - dry it off. Compressors are so cheap these days.
Any electrical contact such as you mention, use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) only. do not use grease or WD40.
I know I have a compulsive disorder concerning cleanliness of my bikes, but if you clean them each time you use them they will not deteriorate.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

FFS it's a bloody motorbike - get out and ride the bleedin' thing, please

FWIW mine looks like a rat bike during the winter, covered in AC50 and that Scottoiler stuff - everywhere except near brakes, that AC50 stuff 'creeps' like nothing else!

Hose down and dry as best you can after a 'salty' ride (10 mins max) and in the Spring a good degrease and 'proper' clean and polish will reveal an imaculate looking bike.

Now go out and ride the bleeder

Andres

 

[Thunder]

If ever a bike was built for riding 12 months of the year it's this one so get out on the thing !

I picked mine up 1st of February and had he first service out of the way as soon as possible, been enjoying it ever since.

Quick rinse after a ride then a blow dry courtesy of my Black and Decker garden vac!

I don't have a garden to vac but one of these is perfect for clearing water off the bike, works brilliantly.

 

[cookiemonster]

I had a similiar experience with my 1150 - the thing corroded before my eyes, I could see fur, rust and bubbling rise up evertime i took it out. My approach has been to sheep-dip my 12 in a pool of acf50: I use a paintbrush actually to give it a good coating all over, even (very very very lightly) on the wheels.

So far so good - everytime i've washed it off there's been a gs1200 under all the crap

 

[Dan Glibitz]

thanks for all the predictable "Get out and ride it" posts. If that's what I wanted to do, I wouldn't have asked the question, innit

More looking for the advice from those who look after a bike like I do. Tips on likely places for water-ingress / corrosion problems.

I like the blow job tip from Thunder, now that's useful!

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

thanks for all the predictable "Get out and ride it" posts. If that's what I wanted to do, I wouldn't have asked the question, innit

Surely that's a contradiction in terms

More looking for the advice from those who look after a bike like I do. Tips on likely places for water-ingress / corrosion problems.

I take it looking after a bike the 'Dan' way is not to ride it then


The areas so far identified for corrosion related problems are:

Front engine cover - not a lot you can do about this except, maybe, remove the foam from inside it which collects condensation.

The rear light connections - clean and Vaseline.

The gear position indicator - I spray mine with WD40 every now and again and so far no probs.

The rest, surely, is common sense and down to how far you want to take it

eg Electrical grease/Vaseline on electrical connections - a good idea but who actually does it (me actually, but I'm anal like that )

As has already been posted here just go for it with the corrosion inhibitors, don't be worried if it looks a bit dirty during the winter and come the spring spend a day degresing, cleaning and polishing it and it WILL look like new.

Now get out and ride it

Andres

 

[marcus]

I kept a 12GS outside with no cover over winter and used it every day in rain, shine, snow, riot, explosion, - 'scuse lack of techno-speak and hope you follow, here's a few "lessons learned"

1. The funny looking little bolts in the middle of the handlebar that hold the whole thing together - lose finish very quickly. Pre-treat in your own way

2. The tubular frame, left hand side - boot rubbing removes paint finish. A quick application of silver duct tape is virtually invisible unless you are looking. Good preventative technique. Same technique on the heel plate other side prevents scuffing. Otherwise Stop it's Hammer(ite) time at trade in!

3. The exhaust downpipes like to be kept clean - cold water works well but obvious tip BE CAREFUL ITS HOT

4. The seat is a little prone to the corners coming away a little in that "Young Ones Sofa" look, but more of a problem if you are do high mileage or have a liking for big pies (the eating kind, not the mammary kind).

5. Wire wheels are a beeee-aaach to clean.

6. The forks I've found to be reasonably resiliant to winter road crap and not given any special treatment beyond semi-regular jetwash (not too close)

No.1 on this list was the most obvious poor finish point on my 1st 12GS and sort of spoilt the look!

Marcus

 

[NeilG]

Also bathe the (problematic) fuel pump relay in ACF50, and use duct tape to cover the holes on the top of the circular plastic cover to stop water ingress.

Did this 18 mths ago and (so far) have had no problems. Not sure why the cover has holes - doesn't get hot and there is a degree of ventilation.

ACF50 is great stuff, but keep well away from brakes and wheels. I apply it to every exposed metal area and electrical switch/relay/connector that could possibly be exposed.

 

[Dan Glibitz]

Also bathe the (problematic) fuel pump relay in ACF50, and use duct tape to cover the holes on the top of the circular plastic cover to stop water ingress.

Did this 18 mths ago and (so far) have had no problems. Not sure why the cover has holes - doesn't get hot and there is a degree of ventilation.

ACF50 is great stuff, but keep well away from brakes and wheels. I apply it to every exposed metal area and electrical switch/relay/connector that could possibly be exposed.

Dim question but what does the fuel pump relay look like and more importantly, where is it located please.

Thanks for the advice too.

 

[NeilG]

Remove the L/H side panel and you'll see it.
Attached pics show the cover and the canbus relay underneath (pics courtesy of Dutchman - thanks)

 

[Dan Glibitz]

Remove the L/H side panel and you'll see it.
Attached pics show the cover and the canbus relay underneath (pics courtesy of Dutchman - thanks)

Out in the garage armed with the ACF-50, lubing like mad . got the fuel pump as you suggested but can't remove the black protector cover, derrr!

can anyone tell me how it is removed please?

 

[Clive]

can anyone tell me how it is removed please?

Insert a flat screwdriver between the cover and the white "flat" bit to the bottom left of the cover and give the screwdriver a twist - it should lift up enough to remove - to refit - locate correctly and push down on top - you should hear a soft "click".

 

[Dan Glibitz]

Insert a flat screwdriver between the cover and the white "flat" bit to the bottom left of the cover and give the screwdriver a twist - it should lift up enough to remove - to refit - locate correctly and push down on top - you should hear a soft "click".

Fanx, off to try it