Which airhead job is most frustrating?

[Beemerboff]

Probably the only good thin about my 2000 F650 GS was the ease of replacing the loom - every one of the 42? plug was different , so apart from the indicators you just matched up the plugs.

None of the plugs were available separately , of course, so break one and and you were up for a $A1,350- loom.

If they had any , that is- nil stock and no supply date in my case.

Not bad on a bike with a known fault and still under warranty.

Ended up fitting a second hand one myself-------.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer
.....Oh, and on the R90 (I'm sure it's the same with a number of others) refitting the long bolt through the air filter housing. Frustrates the heck out of me at times.
Found this awkward too.

Thats a doddle if you put the airbox tube on after you put the bolt in. Just poke your fingers in the hole and guide it in (ooeerr Mrs!)

 

[Rob Farmer]

Swapping the cam on a heavy flywheel bike has got to be up there. Pretty straightforward on a light flywheel machine. On the heavy flywheels the gearbox, clutch and oil pump have all got to come out along with the double row cam chain- if you think the single row chains are awkward you haven't seen anything until you've swapped a double

 

[John Roberts]

Changing the oil filter on an RS or RT with an oil cooler and crash bars is a bastard as well. I did manage it rather better last night by not completely disengaging the balance pipes which meant that I didn't have to reassemble the whole exhaust system which is another annoying job in itself.

Another fustrating one is lubricating the convoluted linkages between the rear brake pedal and the master cylinder on my disc-braked RS. Made easier by removing the silencer and back wheel but still annoying.

As is getting the back wheel out from under the bike without dropping the bike. Probably OK if you park it on a pavement and have the wheel over the kerb when you can just drop the wheel out, but I don't have a kerb in my garage.

Bleeding the back brake on an RS is another one, seems to take forever. I've got myself a Mityvac by now so the next time might be a lot easier. I hope...

Even simply pouring oil into the engine past the carb cables without spilling it is tricky, I do it with one of those plastic cordial bottles upside down with its bottom cut off and use it as a funnel when refilling after an oil change, otherwise I use an old Hypoid oil container with the spout, but then there's the possibility of picking up the wrong container. It's a minefield out there, I tell you... Irritating that you can't just pour it in.

 

[Padmei]

Not really sure about it being frustrating but I'm getting sick of fuel being flicked up into my face every time I pull off the lines to the tank - lucky I wear spectacles

 

[ghiribizzo]

If you know it's a job you're doing next, turn off the taps a few streets away before you get home. No fuel at the top of the hoses when you pull them off .

 

[flytoolow]

Having to mop 3 litres of dirty oil off the garage floor because I forgot to take the vent plug out of the oil canister thingy....


Oh Happy days!! (...done it bloomin twice now!)

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

I thought about this today after the 7th or 8th go at getting the timing hole grommet back in A job made harder by a combo of poor eyesight and fat fingers

Hopefully this thread does 2 things 1. helps vent your spleen 2. attracts a solution to your frustration

So what airhead job shits you the most?

worse one for me was damper ring on the for slider then compressing it to get circlip in grrrrr all by hand i gave up in the end drove to my fathers house over 160 miles away i used his lathe instead took 5 mins to get both forks done !!! in the end

 

[Sylvester]

Having worked on old English made aircraft where everything is lockwired,peened,tapered,tabwashered,staked or all of the above has blessed me with the patience of a saint. However, I never even enter the garage without a cup of tea and a vast chocolate biscuit supply. Keeps me mellow. Working around that F%&**(^% fairing though, that gets my blood pressure up. For the total Zen experience try getting a set of carbs off a GPZ900 espesh when the carb rubbers were first fitted to HMS Mary Rose. Fer F%^& sake Argh...................
I hate it though when you've got the bike back together after a big sesh then find the splange waffler wigget pin washer on the bench. Always reminds me of the old Hamlet cigar advert.

 

[peepingtom]

well i didnt much enjoy a saturday afternoon snapping the screen and undoing every seized nut n bolt trying to get my RTs fairing off fun it wasn't ....

i knew there must be an easier way but didn't find out until id snapped the screen and got it off those 4 main holding bolts that it lifts off

i like most men i don't read the instruction book just swear and curse instead
still ive gotta have something to get mad about




and no its not going back on its gonna be naked

 

[peepingtom]

I've changed my mind after 2 hours trying to get the bevel box on my paralever ! What a totally poxy job , I've done it a couple of times before and know why I've been putting it off.....
It actually seams impossible right now I've tried cookies method of swing arm right down with shaft splines sticking up . No good for me, tried the swing arm in multiple positions and still no joy.


Any pointers PLEASE !!! Cheers

 

[DrFarkoff]

I usually stick 2 wheel bolts in the FD and gearbox in neutral and rotate the wheel side of the flange as I wiggle it

BIT TIP tie centre stand to front wheel !!! (unless of course you are a posh git and have a ramp with a wheel chock thingy)

 

[Edward]

On Del'orto carbs (not sure if Bings are the same), re-fitting the end of the throttle cable to carb whilst compressing but not damaging the springs.

Oh, and on the R90 (I'm sure it's the same with a number of others) refitting the long bolt through the air filter housing. Frustrates the heck out of me at times.

Shining a torch up through the hole where the airtube fits allows you to see the boss where the long stud fits, it's easy then to locate it.

 

[Rob Farmer]

I've changed my mind after 2 hours trying to get the bevel box on my paralever ! What a totally poxy job , I've done it a couple of times before and know why I've been putting it off.....
It actually seams impossible right now I've tried cookies method of swing arm right down with shaft splines sticking up . No good for me, tried the swing arm in multiple positions and still no joy.


Any pointers PLEASE !!! Cheers

Somebody once said it was like trying to have a jump with a soft dick. Not that I'd know of course.

Take the swinging arm out and stand it upright (with the bevel box fitted) then Lower the driveshaft onto the stub.

 

[Roger Chatterton]

I agree with Rob's approach, but put 2 wheel bolts in , and then you can turn the bevel gear to help locate the splines. Takes a few tries, but dead easy really. Don't forget the special grease on the splines though.

 

[peepingtom]

I usually stick 2 wheel bolts in the FD and gearbox in neutral and rotate the wheel side of the flange as I wiggle it

BIT TIP tie centre stand to front wheel !!! (unless of course you are a posh git and have a ramp with a wheel chock thingy)

Yes I have the 2 bolts in and have been wiggling like made to no avail
As for the front wheel centre stand tip thanks I have loads of timber and screws with rackets straps , it's still precarious

Somebody once said it was like trying to have a jump with a soft dick. Not that I'd know of course.

Take the swinging arm out and stand it upright (with the bevel box fitted) then Lower the driveshaft onto the stub.

Me know not of that either

I'd rather try and not to remove the swing arm Rob as I've not got the stretch bolts and I'd have to put the poxy rubber boot on too then
Thanks I may well have to come back to that though

I agree with Rob's approach, but put 2 wheel bolts in , and then you can turn the bevel gear to help locate the splines. Takes a few tries, but dead easy really. Don't forget the special grease on the splines though.

Thanks Roger I'm all lubed up and ready to go, I think I may have to resort to Viagra ! I'm going back out there now hoping the roast beef and Yorkshire pudding will help me

all

 

[Roger Chatterton]

Replacing the rubber boot can be very very, surprisingly quick and easy too. No wonder you're finding it difficult to mate up the shaft etc if you're trying to do it that way. The time it'll take you will be longer than removing the swing arm! So what do four expanding bolts cost? About £2 a pop?
Anyhow, best of luck - reckon you'll need it and the Viagra.

 

[DrFarkoff]

fold a rag under the shaft to keep it up and Straight ish and pull rag out with a bit of string after FD fitted but not bolted up tight

 

[peepingtom]

Replacing the rubber boot can be very very, surprisingly quick and easy too. No wonder you're finding it difficult to mate up the shaft etc if you're trying to do it that way. The time it'll take you will be longer than removing the swing arm! So what do four expanding bolts cost? About £2 a pop?
Anyhow, best of luck - reckon you'll need it and the Viagra.

It's not the cost roger I just wanted it do today mate

fold a rag under the shaft to keep it up and Straight ish and pull rag out with a bit of string after FD fitted but not bolted up tight

I've tried the rag trick too I guess I need to try harder

Ffs firkin old things

 

[Rob Farmer]

In that case!

large flat bladed screwdriver through the rear pivot bearing hole into the rear uj. If you get the right size screwdriver you can move and angle the UJ with it.