Winter Protection Road Salt

[mpgscott]

Hi Folks,

I know its only the end of August and i have had a search on the site but just wanted to ask what you all use for protecting the bike through the sh*t on the roads when riding all year round?

The bike was given a quick once over with ACF50 six weeks ago but how often do you coat the Beemers as i have heard they arent keen on salt and grime??

Any other tips on what best to do, is it worth a stainless bolt set??

Cheers
Mark

 

[bisbee]

Scottoiler fs 365 as it's half the price of ACF 50 Deffo worth a stainless engine bolt kit imho

 

[Beemerman59]

Scottoiler fs 365 as it's half the price of ACF 50 Deffo worth a stainless engine bolt kit imho

FS 365 is good but water based so you have to keep redoing it after rain. ACF50 will go through the winter with just one application. I do mine Oct/Nov and don't touch it till the following April.

 

[mpgscott]

Thanks Bisbee, which set do you recommend??

 

[bisbee]

Thanks Bisbee, which set do you recommend??

I got one off the bay I'll dig the receipt out and post back

 

[Motormed]

I use GT85. Some very good deals on Ebay, especially if you buy in bulk.
Spray on liberally over engine etc and apply with small paintbrush on bolt heads near the brakes.
Oh, and it shmells good too

 

[Deleted account 200502001]

Did my wheels a few wheels ago, sprayed the ACF50 into a tub then applied by paintbrush to rims, spokes, spoke nipples & hubs. Obviously keep it away from the brakes, and remember that the next time you ride it then centrifugal forces will mean any over application will run onto the tyres and elsewhere.

 

[B4ndit]

How long till Christmas?

 

[robb]

Lazy arse way - Get the allyearbiker man to treat it in October. Ride all winter but DON'T wash it again until March and then get him in again. £120 sorted

 

[bisbee]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170592268088?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Timing cover bolt set I used

 

[mpgscott]

Cheers Bisbee, so it was just the timing cover you swapped out?

Did you use copper grease for fitting them to guard against dissimilar metals?? Last one is it reduced torque settings when using stainless steel??

Cheers
Mark

 

[bisbee]

Yes I always use copper grease for dissimilar metals Torque setting for the timing case bolts is only 8Nm ( 5 for the alternator belt cover) so I just nipped up the new ones by feel

 

[alanb2]

I'd recommend Shaw Stainless, others on here also use him. Just google it, Alan

 

[Bendy toy]

Always use a copper content anti seize paste. I use a high temperature version but only because its a solids content. Rocol is very good and a small tube lasts well if you don't lose it in the bottom of your tool box. The really fussy would copper the threads and threadlock the bolt head to keep water from creeping under.

Torqueing lubed stainless into aluminium is asking for trouble. The threads suddenly go solid with minimal spring. When you can't feel what's going on, its all too easy to over-tighten and strip a thread.

 

[Pukmeister]

I would use either Duralac or starbrite (both are a dielectric thread sealant) to prevent galvanic corrosion. Better for stainless into alloy than a copper grease. Available from yacht chandlers etc.

 

[Bendy toy]

Copper is supposed to short out the galvanic battery effect. Does this boat stuff insulate the parts instead?

 

[Rotaxmaxracer]

Pro's & Cons for both ACF50 and FS365:-

Here's my take:-

ACF50 might be expensive - but one good application (use compressed air to blow into nooks and crannies) will protect your pride & joy all winter - and when you do wash it off come spring - hey presto one shining engine underneath (provided it was clean in the first place of course). Downsides is it attracts dirt and grime to stick to the parts to which it is applied - and your bike looks totally crappy after a couple of wet runs etc. If you can live with that...its the best IMHO.

FS365 is about half the price - but as it is water based its needs regular re-application to be effective. Therefore more expensive overall than ACF50. The good thing is that it doesn't attract the dirt in the same way and each time you wash it off and re-apply. So your bike looks clean and tidy more of the time, but it's nowhere near as robust!

My simple solution is:

October-May: Clean bike, provide with a good application of ACF50 - then leave it to get dirty throughout the winter. Just use clear water to wash off the worst of the mud & salt - you will know if it needs re-application as the water stops 'beading up'.

June-end September: Clean off all evidence of ACF50, then apply FS365 which is used to protect the bike throughout the summer - whilst still allowing the bike to look spick & span during the summer riding season.

Works for me

 

[Bendy toy]

The very best stuff I have used is chain saw oil. Even on bare bright steel it's amazing. But you have to gunk it off every two or three months because it will polymerise - turns to varnish.

I now use ACF-50 but I'd not expect one application to last all winter.

 

[Rotaxmaxracer]

ACF50

The very best stuff I have used is chain saw oil. Even on bare bright steel it's amazing. But you have to gunk it off every two or three months because it will polymerise - turns to varnish.

I now use ACF-50 but I'd not expect one application to last all winter.

I think you are right - depends on how much use it gets and the weather conditions of course! As I said you can usually tell when it needs re-application as the water stops beading up on the surfaces

 

[Greenman14]

ACF is good stuff, as said by many, but it's a bugger to clean off completely. I've used FS365 and ACF50 and will stick with FS as I don't ride that much in the winter anyway. If I was a proper tosser and rode it every day of the year I would use ACF50, and probably only clean the thing twice a year.