Wiring diagram

[tanneman]

Anybody got one or have a download of the GS (Adv) LC wiring diagrams or where to get it. I need one to check the clutch switch wiring.

The search engine just gives some random websites where you have to register to download.

 

[knutk]

Anybody got one or have a download of the GS (Adv) LC wiring diagrams or where to get it. I need one to check the clutch switch wiring.

The search engine just gives some random websites where you have to register to download.

Not very helpful when it comes to getting the diagram, but the general consensus is that the diagram for the LC bikes is not needed, as all cables leads the easiest route to the controlling computer. In case of the clutch switch, this means that one of the cables leads to the computer and the other one leads to ground. (Probably grounded through the controlling computer)

I have never had access to a diagram for the LC, however, as the clutch is part of the engine, the natural computer for the clutch wire would be to lead to the BMS.

Perhaps a Hayes manual may contain a wiring diagram ?

 

[Santa-2512]

Anybody got one or have a download of the GS (Adv) LC wiring diagrams or where to get it. I need one to check the clutch switch wiring.

The search engine just gives some random websites where you have to register to download.

Model & year makes a big help month of manufacture means we can get it in one

 

[tanneman]

Not very helpful when it comes to getting the diagram, but the general consensus is that the diagram for the LC bikes is not needed, as all cables leads the easiest route to the controlling computer. In case of the clutch switch, this means that one of the cables leads to the computer and the other one leads to ground. (Probably grounded through the controlling computer)

I have never had access to a diagram for the LC, however, as the clutch is part of the engine, the natural computer for the clutch wire would be to lead to the BMS.

Perhaps a Hayes manual may contain a wiring diagram ?

If it was that easy I wouldn't need a wiring diagram.

The switch is part of a logic and has 3 pins. 1 is a supply, the other 2 are feedback to determine if the clutch is released or pulled.

BTW it is a 14 plate GSA.

 

[Winjar]

Not very helpful when it comes to getting the diagram, but the general consensus is that the diagram for the LC bikes is not needed, as all cables leads the easiest route to the controlling computer. In case of the clutch switch, this means that one of the cables leads to the computer and the other one leads to ground. (Probably grounded through the controlling computer)

I have never had access to a diagram for the LC, however, as the clutch is part of the engine, the natural computer for the clutch wire would be to lead to the BMS.

Perhaps a Hayes manual may contain a wiring diagram ?

You are correct Hayes year 13-16 has all diagram inside.

https://haynes.com/en-us/bmw/r1200gs-adventure/2014-2016

 

[knutk]

If it was that easy I wouldn't need a wiring diagram.

The switch is part of a logic and has 3 pins. 1 is a supply, the other 2 are feedback to determine if the clutch is released or pulled.

BTW it is a 14 plate GSA.

What is the problem?

I'm on the road now and don't have access to any documentation.
But generally, all switches and sensors for all the newer BMW are either routed directly to the relevant ECU or, as in case of the switchgear, it' communicates directly to the ZFE by means of serial data, using LIN bus protocol.

Any type of logic is handled by the relevant ECU, not by the switch or through wiring.

BMW may of course have made an exception for some items, but I seriously doubt it, as that would be very 'not German like'.

In case of clutch switch operation problems, the easiest way to check it is by means of a GS911, where reading live values will show the operation of the clutch switch.

The two positions for the clutch switces are one that disconnects the cruise control and the other one is used when starting the engine when engine is in gear.

 

[tanneman]

That is the problem. The engine won' start when in gear and won't change mode when riding. I have checked the side stand switch. That is working and same principle as the clutch switch. A further test carried out when riding and switching modes. The mode should switch when the clutch is pulled in. It doesn't.

 

[Winjar]

That is the problem. The engine won' start when in gear and won't change mode when riding. I have checked the side stand switch. That is working and same principle as the clutch switch. A further test carried out when riding and switching modes. The mode should switch when the clutch is pulled in. It doesn't.

This is problem and how fix.

http://sgbikerboy.com/2019/02/14/bmw-r1200gs-lc-clutch-switch-failure/

 

[tanneman]

Thanks, I had a look at the OEM parts. Not aware that it is something that is bound to happen as I haven't started up the search engine yet.

The reason for the wiring diagram is because I have had the bike apart and wanted to be sure that I haven't left a plug unplugged. My multimeter with all the gubbins for getting in such small sockets is at work and I won't be back till Sunday.

 

[knutk]

Thanks, I had a look at the OEM parts. Not aware that it is something that is bound to happen as I haven't started up the search engine yet.

The reason for the wiring diagram is because I have had the bike apart and wanted to be sure that I haven't left a plug unplugged. My multimeter with all the gubbins for getting in such small sockets is at work and I won't be back till Sunday.

The link provided by @Winjar is spot on.

As far as I understand, there is only one connector to worry about, the one that connects to the switch.

Courtesy BMW Rep DVD

Unless I fall fall flat on my face, it is my humble claim that the wires leading from this connector are leading directly to the BMS.
And the two switches within the cluster are sealed units, capable of handling powerwasher and all kinds of crappy weather.

If the test,( as described by the link provided by @Winjar) shows a failure, the only choice is to replace the switch. Don't waste time trying to revive them with any kind of magic spray.

The described test is all i takes.

Now, if the urge strikes to test the switches, this is generally what to expect from BMW (and any modern vehicle):

Each of the two switches leads to one of the ports of the CPU inside the CPU. The CPU supply voltage is bringing the port high (meaning either 3,3V or 5V, depending on the CPU voltage). Then, when the switch is activated, the switch is grounded, bringing the port to low. Thus, if you disconnect the connector and hook up volt meter and measure the voltage, two of the contacts will measure the internal supply voltage, while one contact is ground.

If the urge to measure the connector is there, keep in mind:
DON'T EVEN THINK OF USING AN OLDFASHIONED TESTLAMP WHERE ONE LEAD IS CONNECTED TO Battery +12V. This may fry the CPU. Even a regular resistor teste to check connectivity to ground may fry the ECU, as the multimeter ejects a 9V voltage to the leads and checks if the current is transferred through the leads. A multimeter will work measuring voltage, but it must be a quality instrument with HIGH internal resistance.

To sum it all up, if there is the remotest doubt about the quality of the equipment being used, DON'T use it, trust the diagnostic system.

It may seem harsh from my part to write it the way I do, but even if the CPU's are quite robust in day to day use, there is one thing that will cause an instant kill, and that is injecting a voltage higher then the the internal supply voltage to any of the ports. Most of the time, the manufacturer builds protection into the system in order to protect it from idiots. but one should never count on it.
The above text relates to testing the connector.

If the switches are disconnected from the connector, they are just dumb switches, and if testing the switches, regular testing apply.


Best of luck with your repair

 

[SBD]

Good advice…

 

[tanneman]

Nice piece of write up the knutk. I wasn't going to put the multimeter on the plug side. The microswitch pins are recessed in the plug receptacle and a normal multimeter leads would not reach so I would've needed slim test points for it. Thanks for the advice.

 

[knutk]

That is the problem. The engine won' start when in gear and won't change mode when riding. I have checked the side stand switch. That is working and same principle as the clutch switch. A further test carried out when riding and switching modes. The mode should switch when the clutch is pulled in. It doesn't.

If Switch #2 des not close, this will be the problem indeed.

You can actually hear the switches clicking (but it is not very loud). On my 1250, the #1 switch clicks after pulling the handle 1 cm, while the #2 switch clicks when the shortest remaining distance between the clutch handle and the grip is 2 cm.

Since the bike is a '14 it would be worth checking that there is not an mechanical issue that prevents the #2 switch to close.

 

[tanneman]

I was thinking about it. I can hear the microswitches clicking when operating the clutch lever. Since the multi meter is at work. I rummaged through my electrics toolbox and found some wire left over when I build a circuit board. Made a link, removed the switch, cleaned it - no joy, linked out the plug at /1 and /2 and the bike starts. That has proved beyond doubt that the switch is at fault.

And now you know how.

Ordered the switch today. Just over £50 for it

 

[Winjar]

I was thinking about it. I can hear the microswitches clicking when operating the clutch lever. Since the multi meter is at work. I rummaged through my electrics toolbox and found some wire left over when I build a circuit board. Made a link, removed the switch, cleaned it - no joy, linked out the plug at /1 and /2 and the bike starts. That has proved beyond doubt that the switch is at fault.

And now you know how.

Ordered the switch today. Just over £50 for it

Good news, 50 is not so bad for 7 year bike. if used a lot.

 

[knutk]

I was thinking about it. I can hear the microswitches clicking when operating the clutch lever. Since the multi meter is at work. I rummaged through my electrics toolbox and found some wire left over when I build a circuit board. Made a link, removed the switch, cleaned it - no joy, linked out the plug at /1 and /2 and the bike starts. That has proved beyond doubt that the switch is at fault.

And now you know how.

Ordered the switch today. Just over £50 for it

That's excellent

It feels so much better when the fault is positively identified and the fault makes sense when analyzed and the symptoms match.

Further, I would like to add that I find it inspiring when given feedback after the fault is found.

Too many people ask for advice, and when the fault has been found they just stop writing, and no one beyond the OP has been able to learn anything.