Wiring help needed.

Antoknee

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Hi All,
I have just purchased a pair of additional lights for my 2009 GSA. They have 2 separate DRL? lights.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for buying a wiring harness and switch, preferably one which would allow me to turn them on separately.
I have never worked on electrics on a bike so any help would really be appreciated. I don't want to spend big money on a hex ezcan as the lights were only £26 and I chose them as I thought they matched well with the LED headlight.
If you can see this photo, it shows I have fitted just one of the square lights. https://www.antonylancashire.com/Clients/Road-trip-2021/n-Qn7Jq2

n-Qn7Jq2
 
Adventure don is quite right, however if you don;t want to bother wiring relays... There's a couple of gadgets you may like that can help...

1. Thunderbox - allows you to connect effectively "switched" live from the bike (ie; the lights/accessories will be live only when engine running... https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/tb/ - you can attache your new LED lights direct to this, and they will come on with the ignition, and off when you stop... If you want other accessories (heated grips, GPS, heated gloves etc) this box will also provide a switched "live" for you
2. Skene controller. You can use this on it's own as it has a Relay too. It will allow you to run your lights in low intensity (as daytime runninlg lights that won't dazzle) during the day, and then with full intensity with your full beam (so at night on a country lane you get "full blast". It's really easy to wire-in (instructions are great) https://www.adventurebikeshop.co.uk...intelligent-lighting-controller-smart-dimmer/

Think of the Skene as a low-budget EZCAN ;) It has (very) limited functions compared to EZCAN but it's cheaper

Thunderbox vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPNJENcKno4

I had a Skene on my Guzzi for a while now. What I'll also mention is that I too bought cheap LED lights (with the Skene), but after a long wet winter ride and the obligatory wash after the ride, one of the cheap LED lights filled with moisture, so at the NEC bike show I bought a "proper" set of Denali S4 instead. Buy cheap buy twice in my expericnce...

Good luck!!!


Added your piccie too if that helps
i-JzdjdJ7-X2.jpg
 
Hi All,
I have just purchased a pair of additional lights for my 2009 GSA. They have 2 separate DRL? lights.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for buying a wiring harness and switch, preferably one which would allow me to turn them on separately.
I have never worked on electrics on a bike so any help would really be appreciated. I don't want to spend big money on a hex ezcan as the lights were only £26 and I chose them as I thought they matched well with the LED headlight.

I am going to be blunt! IF you accidentally screw up and cross the can bus networking to 12V whilst you are hoking and poking ??

Your ECU's will likely be Screwed!!

My advice Buy the Hex or similar autoswitch devices

OR have someone do it for you who works on them professionally sort it for you

Eu300 V a POSSIBLE EU3000

If you can't strip wires, fit spade connectors and wire a relay and make connections with solder and heat shrink?

Honestly probably better to Step back and get it done for you :rob
 
Not bad advice DrFarkoff (and I do bow to your knowledge). the Thunderbox it pretty safe tho (as you say "Autoswitch"), just connect to the battery and it has it's own cut-out. Much safer than. creating a loom with Relays IMO...
 
Not bad advice DrFarkoff (and I do bow to your knowledge).

no bowing required Sir

It is just Knowledge attained from fixing issues such as this when folks want to have a go on their own ... "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing"


Not usually a problem on an 1150 but with hex heads onwards having CanBus 12 volts crossing into a 5 Volt system is "usually" quite catastrophic

1150s do catch fire though so anything hooked in should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible
 
Thank you adventuredon that was extremely useful, I've now watched the linked video and can see no reason why I would not be able to go down that route.
 
Thank you MartinK, very helpful and thanks for posting my pic. I really like the idea of the Thunder Box and enjoyed the video. I think I will probably end up buying some decent lights in the future but having just bought the bike, I may have to wait a bit. Cheers
 
DrFarkoff Thats really good sound advice.
I am capable of doing the wiring as I do a bit of work on classic cars. Its the can bus that's new to me, so I'll take your advice and buy a autoswitch device such as the Thunder box. Many thanks
 
Remember to let us know how you got on. May help others too if you post up :)
 
It seems there is more choice to buy a nice looking single on/off switch and harness, rather than a Hi/low/off switch.
My thoughts now, unless im advised not to do so, is to use the Thunder Box and have the outer sqaure LED of my new lights come on (unswitched) when I start the bike up as daytime running lights.
The other more powerful inner light can then be operated by a single on/off switch.
Am I missing something ??? Happy to be shot down as this is all new to me, at 52 years of age I guess I'm a later starter to road bikes ( have always ridden off road).
TIA
 
DrFarkoff Thats really good sound advice.
I am capable of doing the wiring as I do a bit of work on classic cars. Its the can bus that's new to me, so I'll take your advice and buy a autoswitch device such as the Thunder box. Many thanks
There's also something called a PDM60. Not as sophisticated as the others - more akin the the thunderbox - but offers a lot more outlets and a fair degree of control on the circuit behaviours. Unit is also fairly indestructible.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
DrFarkoff Thats really good sound advice.
I am capable of doing the wiring as I do a bit of work on classic cars. Its the can bus that's new to me, so I'll take your advice and buy a autoswitch device such as the Thunder box. Many thanks

If you can do the wiring on classic cars then you can easily wire in a supply for your lights. Forget about the can-bus as you don't have to touch it, you tap into a circuit controlled by the can-bus not the data bus itself. The idle place is the aux power socket by the saddle.
There are two wires going into the back of the socket, tap into the live wire and run the other end of your wire to the solenoid contact of a bog standard 12v car/bike relay. Take another wire from the other solenoid contact of the relay and take it to an earth.
You can now run any additional load from the battery through the relay and it will be switched by the can-bus.
I would use a small fuse box and supply several additional circuits from that.
It will cost you a very few pounds to do.
 
Kennedys-Tuning provides performance auto-tuning services such as remapping and DPF removal. They are quite knowledgeable when it comes to engines they may be able to help you.
 
I use a Fuzeblok under my seat to power a mix of ignition switched and constant feed accessories.

I like it
 

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