Would everyone be happier if...

I really like my R1200GS (09), but if BMW was about to hear me, then here is my thoughts and ideas:

1. Keep the tele/para lever…..this think makes the bike unique.
2. Keep the ABS as is….it works fine and cooperates perfect with the telelever.
3. Reduce 10 Kg.
4. Add 5 more Ltrs to the tank.
5. Change completely the H7 philosophy and make easier the replacement of the head lights.
6. Better heated grips…the present once have crappy rubber.

And now the serious staff….

7. Place third bearing in the crank shaft.
8. Get read of the single clutch…change configuration and place a multy plate / wet clutch.
9. Copy paste a HONDA’s f@cking swing arm / shaft / FD….or a GUCCI one….and try not to change a single item.
10. or Use chain…..is an ON-OFF bike.

Or at least, try to redesign a descent clutch / shaft / FD assy because it is really bad. It is sad such a wonderful bike, instead of giving good time to the owner, to create a constant worry and headache to the owner on issues that industry have been shorted out since late 70’s.

We are not supposed to make BMW dealer our best friend and read/write more than ride…
 
I really like my R1200GS (09), but if BMW was about to hear me, then here is my thoughts and ideas:

1. Keep the tele/para lever…..this think makes the bike unique.
2. Keep the ABS as is….it works fine and cooperates perfect with the telelever.
3. Reduce 10 Kg.
4. Add 5 more Ltrs to the tank.
5. Change completely the H7 philosophy and make easier the replacement of the head lights.
6. Better heated grips…the present once have crappy rubber.

And now the serious staff….

7. Place third bearing in the crank shaft.
8. Get read of the single clutch…change configuration and place a multy plate / wet clutch.
9. Copy paste a HONDA’s f@cking swing arm / shaft / FD….or a GUCCI one….and try not to change a single item.
10. or Use chain…..is an ON-OFF bike.

11. Have a fuel gauge that doesn't keep breaking.
12. Have a heated seat as an option.
13. Have cruise control as an option.
14. Have GPS as an option (with a proper place for it on the dash so it can be locked).
15. Have Xenon headlights as an option.

:thumb2
 
Third bearing on the crankshaft?
Where would they put that?
And why?


The third bearing (torque or support bearing) should have been designed and installed from the very begging on the R1200 engines in the middle of the crank shaft, exactly in-between the crank shaft guide bearings…..

That's the only way this engine will produce more power and more revs with less vibration and reliability.

At the moment, 105-110hp is far too much for the particular configuration.
 
The third bearing (torque or support bearing) should have been designed and installed from the very begging on the R1200 engines in the middle of the crank shaft, exactly in-between the crank shaft guide bearings…..

That's the only way this engine will produce more power and more revs with less vibration and reliability.

At the moment, 105-110hp is far too much for the particular configuration.

The trouble is with a centre bearing between the big end journals, you'd then make a longer engine, heavier crank, increase the cylinder offset and increase the probability of torsional vibration. I think the negatives outweigh any slight advantage you might get from this the third bearing.

How can you say 110bp is too much? I know 1200 owners seem to like worrying about things but one thing that never breaks is the bottom end which is strongly designed and almost universally reliable right from the first days of the 1100?
 
Bin the single sided swingarm and use a conventional 'double sided' one that'll remove all the twisting forces from the FD bearings.
Bin the Paralever (should have been named palaver). Although I fell for the hype, buying an R100GS when it was launched, it's never seemed enough of an enhancement to warrant the added weight and complexity.

The single-sided, non-Paralever R's and K's never seemed to suffer with FD bearing failures (except long-term wear).
 
Oh and another thing: Ditch the centrally mounted rear spring/shock and go back to one that is mounted on the FD housing. It would be lighter than that additional swingarm casting, easier to get at and adds a bracing function for the swingarm (I reckon the unit need be less beefy too if repositioned).
 
How about a belt instead of a chain or shaft? No oil or grease to make a mess and generally very little maintenance.
Yes I know how difficult it would be but it is no more a daft idea than putting a chain on a north south mounted boxer engine.
 
How about a belt instead of a chain or shaft?

I used to have an F800ST. The only problem with a belt is that stones can get trapped and damage the belt so it's probably not a good idea on a GS.
 
9. Copy paste a HONDA’s f@cking swing arm / shaft / FD….or a GUCCI one….and try not to change a single item.

Beat me to it mate.....:thumb2

I never had (and as far as I know, nor did anyone else) a problem with the shaft drive etc on my old Honda CX500 (I know...I know....but the shafty bit was reliable :D)......and that was THIRTY YEARS AGO !!!!!!

Serious question to the 'bike tecs' on here. Have you ever heard of any REGULAR problems, relating to the shaft drive, on any Jap' shafty ?.

I haven't, but I then I don't work on 'bikes all day. I would be interested to know if Jap' shaftys screw up like Beemers.
 
Bin the whole efin drive system and fit chain for you GS boys, belt for us RT lads, save us all bloody fortune.

Then fit a float fuel sensor with some of the money saved…
 
I used to have an F800ST. The only problem with a belt is that stones can get trapped and damage the belt so it's probably not a good idea on a GS.

Oh I am sure some kind of guard could be setup. Guard to keep the stones out and a nice coaxial frame to circumvent the belt going slack and tight as the swinging arm rotates. Course you would still need a bevel drive to change crank rotation 90 deg. That could be the problem since the FD is a bevel drive and we know how unreliable that allegedly is.
 


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