XCountry won’t run - help!

tim0409

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Hi,
I would be really grateful for some advice on where to begin with diagnosing my XCountry which won’t run.

It’s been running really well for the last three years I’ve owned it but the other day it cranked over but wouldn’t start. I decided to replace the battery as I know they can be quite sensitive to having a good battery; the next day it started although it took a few attempts, which is unusual. I then took it for a run into the centre of Edinburgh (it ran really well) and stopped for a coffee, and 40 mins later when I went to go home it cranked over but did not start. I called the AA, and they put a jump pack on the battery but still no luck so I was trailered home. It’s now in my garage.

A couple of things that may or may not be relevant..

1) The day before the issue started I noticed my headlight bulb was out so I replaced it. Could I have disturbed ignition wiring that would cause it to crank but not fire?
2) Side stand switch; would a faulty stand switch allow it to crank but not fire?
3) Since I got the bike, when I press the starter button there is noise as if the starter moves momentarily, then stops. When I press the button again it cranks normally.
I’ve had various suggestions on Facebook groups, including the crank position sensor, but just wanted to widen the net on this forum. I don’t have access to diagnostics unfortunately.
Thanks in advance.
 
The first steps of diagnosing "Why won't my bike start" are determining if it's Electrical, chemical or Mechanical.

Electrical = Does it spark when cranking ? - Remove the plug and check for a spark when cranking. The plug base needs to be Grounded against the frame or engine block to test.
Chemical = Is there fuel ?? - Remove the injector. When cranking , do you get a mist of fuel from the injector when cranking.
Mechanical = The last check - If you have a spark and have fuel, do you have enough compression in your motor. Although from your description, I think you do.

One of those will be letting you down. Then you need to understand that system and it's points of weakness and diagnose the components in it seperately. Time consuming I know !
 
Simple things first.
The throttle is very sensitive to position. Don't touch the throttle, not even hold it, when you press the button. Literally just poke the button with a fingertip.
Reset throttle position sensor:
Turn on ignition, let it do it's dance. DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
Slowly wind the throttle on to full throttle, slowly return to stop. Do this three times.
Turn ignition off and wait 30 seconds.
Turn ignition on, let it do it's dance with the lights etc. Press starter. Hopefully that was the problem and all is good.

If not, next things I would look at are the idle control valve - silver lump on the intake. Take it out and give it a good clean. While you are in there check the automatic decompressor, it is a spring loaded, centrifugally operated device. This is why the battery needs to be in good shape to make it work, if you aren't spinning the motor fast enough to operate the fly out, it won't go. This can be because it is gummed up a bit. Worth looking at your air filter element too. I had a K&N washable on the Challenge, horrible thing. I went back to the stock paper filter element and it solved starting problems, but I also cleaned the idle valve and decompressor at the same time - so it might have been coincidence.

If none of those things do it, it is beyond my knowledge.

Jon Nicholson to the bat phone! (He is up your end too, but the right side of Hadrian's Wall. :D )
 
Many thanks for the helpful replies. I’ve reset the throttle (no luck), and I’ve removed the spark plug and I’m not getting any spark, which at least narrows it down.

I unbolted the kick stand switch and it’s full of crud. I would be really grateful if anyone could let me know which of the wires I need to join to bypass it (white/red/brown)

Thanks in advance.

ETA - from what I’ve read cleaning the crank position sensor is advised - any help on where it is would be great….
 
Last edited:
ETA - from what I’ve read cleaning the crank position sensor is advised - any help on where it is would be great….

I think that as I said to you on Facebook, Tim, if it's throwing an intermittent failure fault code, it probably needs a new sensor.
If I remember correctly, that's located behind the alternator. For diagnostics or any work, I'd thoroughly recommend Calum Baker
at Central Customs in Roslin.
 
Many thanks. I’m getting to the point where I am going to need some diagnostic help. I’ve checked the crank sensor for debris, bypassed the switch stand, and replaced the battery with the original which is fully charged. It’s cranking but I’m not getting the fuel pump cycling or any spark.
 
I tried the local BMW specialist but he has a 6 week waiting time so I’m back to going through everything on the bike myself although it’s difficult without a wiring diagram. I have found some damaged wires on a relay (LI L5A 12v 30 A) which I think is lighting so I don’t think is relevant to the non firing issue but I will fix it in any case. I can’t find a replacement socket so will try and depin it and replace the wires.
 
Hi Tim,

I can't send you a PM as you're not a subscriber to the forum. I'm not on commission but if you do subscribe (or have a dead-drop email address), I can maybe get you some helpful info.
 
Thanks again for the wiring diagrams, which were really helpful. I set about checking more of the wiring today and found the starter relay hanging down behind the engine (the wiring had previously been repaired), so I swapped it out with a spare and it immediately fired into life. Just back from a test run and it’s perfect.
 
I don't see a dangling starter relay (or anything to do with it, really) causing the bike to crank but not fire. I'm looking into causes for similar misbehavior in a G650x that I have on the shop now.
 
I don't see a dangling starter relay (or anything to do with it, really) causing the bike to crank but not fire. I'm looking into causes for similar misbehavior in a G650x that I have on the shop now.
did you do king rat's fault finding check?
you'd laugh could be anything from low batt to iron filings in the generator or even this connection reversed.
matt snook has a good collection to look up.matt's help file
 
What's King Rat's check? And what connection reversed?
The throttle is very sensitive to position.
Reset throttle position sensor:
Turn on ignition, let it do it's dance. DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
Slowly wind the throttle on to full throttle, slowly return to stop. Do this three times.
Turn ignition off and wait 30 seconds.
Turn ignition on, let it do it's dance with the lights etc. > press starter.

the spark plugs if they are reversed, that causes issues.
pull fuse no1, this stops power to the ecu relay

there was big rigmarole on a german thread, where the starter shed metal chips and these shortened the generator.
when this was sorted, the pickup wiring was mixed up, that simple
 
I think I read somewhere that when switching on ignition the various lights come on, sometimes one or other of these lights flash (fast or slow) which indicates an issue that needs attention. Anyone else know if this is the case and which flashing light indicates what issue? Think I read something about temperature light flashing means throttle needs reset. I had a continuous stall problem and went through the reset procedure outlined by 'drimcong' and now all seems well.
 


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