Yet another switched power question

[mr_magicfingers]

Hello, and yes I've searched.

I have my iphone mounted up on the dash behind the screen on my 1150gs. Works well and easily visible. Want to wire in some power for it and, rather than using the accessory socket, I'd like to wire it in directly. It takes very little power, the fuse in the original cigarette lighter cable was only 1.5A so I guess it's taking well under an amp. I've dissected the connector, found a little box for the voltage regulator that is on the cable and just need to decide where to wire it in.

I'd like it to be switched power and wondering if I can just tap off a suitable line in around the headlights and, if so, which would be the most suitable.

I could, of course, wire directly off the battery but that seems a bit unnessary given how small the current draw is on the charger, so would appreciate any advice on where you'd recommend.

Cheers,

Justin.

 

[sproggy]

The correct way to do it would be to use a circuit like the side lights (if yours are wired permanently on - 2002 bikes and later) or similar to trigger a relay that takes its main power feed direct from the battery and supplies the iphone via a fuse. With low current draw accessories you can risk running direct but I wouldn't recommend it since a short-circuit in your iphone lead will blow the fuse on whatever circuit you're taking the power from which could be either inconvenient or dangerous.

A Centec fuse panel is a useful addition if you plan to add more accessories.

 

[MattW]

I had a similar dilemma when mounting my gps - I ended up taking the headlight out and jumping off the pilot light feed with an inline fuse - all concealed in the headlamp shell. It means my satnav is only powered up when I've got lights on but as I always ride with lights it's not a problem for me (obviously if you choose not to ride with lights it wouldn't be an appropriate solution).

A dedicated auxiliary fuse panel (or perhaps piggybacking off an existing fuse or a spare way in the standard fuse box if there's one available?) would probably be a more elegant solution but my headlamp thing was handy because it meant minimum disruption / faffing and gave me power in just the required location.

Edit: This is on an 1100 which obviously has a larger single headlamp / shell - not sure if there would be enough room with an 1150?

 

[mr_magicfingers]

Good ideas. I like the idea of a separate fuse block, but was a bit horrified by the price of the centech. I might roll my own version for less and see how it works out.

Thanks.

Justin.