Yikes! Missing bolt!

Steptoe said:
:rolleyes:

I doubt it's as dramatic as "sheared". More likely seized or cross threaded and snapped off on removal.

If you want something pointless to worry about, think of same sized single bolt that secures the bottom of the rear shock and has all the weight of the rear of the bike on it, and it gets worked on every bump you go over. ...... .:D
Click to expand...


Better get someone to weld that up for me then!
:D
 
Steptoe said:
If you want something pointless to worry about, think of same sized single bolt that secures the bottom of the rear shock and has all the weight of the rear of the bike on it, and it gets worked on every bump you go over. ...... .:D
Click to expand...

I certainly don't find that pointless!:D
 
Looks like paying to have it removed will cost me the best part of £400-500

So, set of Cobalt drill bits on the way to me.

Ah well, I guess I learn more about my bike when I tackle removing the subframe to drill the sodding bolt out.

So... drilling-out tips?

Plenty of you are suggesting Easy Outs are the devil's work.

So once I drill in enough (say 5mm?), keep going fatter and fatter to eventually 'pick' the bolt out?

Or hammer in a star/allen bit and try to unscrew it?
 
Wait and see how much (if any) of the stud is proud of the engine block. If there's enough, then try plenty of heat and a stud extractor (not an easy-out)....

draper-58710-10mm-stud-extractor-part-087936M.jpg


before attempting to drill it out.
 
Thanks Mike, but I think I can see that it's virtually flush with the outside of the engine block
:(


Think drilling is gonna be the way to go

Am definitely staying away from Easy outs though!
 
I never had much luck using larger drill sizes, always seemed to end up off centre and become a real pain.
 
Last edited:
I can see from the pics that its virtually flush with the block, so a stud extractor wont work, your right not to consider easi outs, if you break one off you got a big problem, they are usually recommended by people who haven't used em but seen them on the net somewhere :D
If it were mine I would go for drilling out and re tapping.
You need a good clean center punch hole in the center, initially drill out a pilot hole with a 3mm drill steadily with a bit of lube (Wd40 will do at a pinch) Try to keep the drill nice and square to the job so you have a nice hole straight down the center of the broken bolt.
Your 2nd drill should be no more than 7mm this is the size for tapping a M8 hole (Which is the size it is)
The hole is 33mm deep maximum, dont drill deeper ! in fact 30mm should be OK, put a bit of insulating tape 30mm up from the point of the drills so you know where you are.
You need an M8 Tap that taps to the bottom of the hole
When tapping it with the M8 tap, wind in a bit then out, work your way in like that all the way, use the lube and a bit of compressed air would be handy to periodically blow the hole clear
Buy a good quality Tap, there are some rubbish ones out there, a broken tap is as bad as a broken easi-out! go to an engineering supplier preferably
The subframe can be swung up out the way, remove the long stud on the bracket above it or tap it into its hole a bit and lever the mount point back a bit.

Best of luck with the Job, it will be worth it for peace of mind :thumb
 
make sure you get all the old bolt out before trying to re-tap.

whatever you do, your drilling will almost certainly be slightly off centre. use a pick to pull out the bits of bolt thread and debris.

you can go a bit oversize, if you have to, as long as there is enough ally left around the hole. just helicoil it.
 
cookie said:
make sure you get all the old bolt out before trying to re-tap.

whatever you do, your drilling will almost certainly be slightly off centre. use a pick to pull out the bits of bolt thread and debris.

you can go a bit oversize, if you have to, as long as there is enough ally left around the hole. just helicoil it.
Click to expand...

What cookie sez.

I've never managed to centre punch and drill perfectly down the centre of a snapped bolt. I go as big as I dare without hitting the casting and use some angled dental picks to ferret out what's left of the fastener. I've also had some success with small burrs on a Dremel to enlarge an off centre drilling (but that depends on whether you can get to it well enough).
 
Thanks all!

Top tips.

I've got 11 days off over Easter, so I'll tackle it then.

Just need to work out how to remove the subframe to get at the bugger!

:thumb
 
re easy outs-- all depends which type you are using...

if its like these
20643.JPG


i would avoid them as they snap quite easily, then you are fecked.....

however if its like this

19133.JPG


go for it, they are great and no one at work has ever had 1 snap during use.
 
Steptoe said:
Don't worry about it.

There are loads of bikes trundling around with that bolt broken. I've even seen a couple of 1200's with that bolt broken off :D
Click to expand...

It begs the question why should this bolt be broken or missing on so many bikes ? :nenau
 
harry said:
It begs the question why should this bolt be broken or missing on so many bikes ? :nenau
Click to expand...

They seize in place if left untouched for a few years, or if removed get forced into place on reassembly and cross threaded.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Geno
Sorry I have been missing for so long . Been years .
Replies
18
Views
556
DrFarkoff
DrFarkoff
BMW Engine something missing?
Replies
7
Views
2,727
GSian
GSian
Vulpine2
1992 R100gs starter motor. Missing bracket?
Replies
5
Views
892
mikeyboy
mikeyboy
Newbie: Q on Missing Bodywork Part & Horn (Denali Sound Bomb Mini)
Replies
1
Views
1,274
Hoff
Hoff
TPS sensor guard - missing bolt
Replies
2
Views
1,084
horudis82


Back
Top Bottom