Yorkshire Dales Weekend

tjmouse

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It’s only taken me 42 years to make it to the Dales. Definitely not something to be proud of.

As a caveat before you read any further, it’s ugly and the people are horrible. You definitely shouldn’t visit because then it’d get busier and spoil it for when I come back.

With that out the way on with the plan.

I like to make the most of the bank holidays to get away on the bike. Last year it was France x2 this year I had the late May weekend in Wales (my typical hunting ground as it’s so close) but decided to head somewhere new for the August weekend.

Simple plan really, bail as early as possible on Friday and blat up the motorway to arrive in time for dinner. Saturday and Sunday explore some new roads, Monday head home avoiding as much motorway as possible.

A mix of Ride routes, Instagram and YouTube stalking and I had a few route plans set for me to try depending on what the weather does.
 
Yep, I have to agree with you…..its a horrible horrible place to explore, the roads are in a shocking state, there’s Police speed traps around every bend and the food is always cold and uneatable. Also the locals hate motorcyclists with a passion. My advice is to find somewhere else to ride, I’ve heard its blooming lovely down south.
Enjoy your trip my friend, ride safely and enjoy. 👌
 
Friday

Finished work early and started up the M5 north. It was wet and busy from the start. The original optimistic trip time of 3.5 hours quickly turned to 5.5 hours which did not sound fun.

Sure enough it was a car park most of the way. Filtering as much as I could fully loaded but getting soaked by heavy rain and spray was not fun. Gear held up great except for my helmet visor which leaks on the inside even when clipped such, bit disappointing for a Neotech 3 so might have to see what Shoei say.

Anyway, I made it by 7pm and had dinner booked for 7:45 so just enough time to get the tent up and change before walking to the pub. All good campsites have a pub within a 15 min walk!

No photo of the tent going up but dinner was a fantastic dirty burger and I came back to a group of bunnies enjoying the campsite, turns out they are a feature here.

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Saturday

Time to explore. I’m staying in Ingleton at Stackstead Farm Campsite where whiskey I’d love to say they hate motorcycles, are generally horrible and there’s a speed camera on the drive, it is in fact run by a lovely couple, there are rabbits everywhere and chickens (more on them later), the views are stunning, shower is hot and they have a small leisure centre on site!

Anyway the weather today does not like the Dales but there’s a route I got from Ride that heads up to the Pennines and it’s looking dry there so that’s the plan for the day sorted.

Morning bunny patrol:

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Weather looking perfect for the bike!

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Got a route planned though:

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It includes a few roads I’ve had tagged for a while so I’m looking forward to this one.

I’d been smart and picked up breakfast on my way home from work so I was up early, shower, pastry and coffee and I’m ready to go.

Heading north I’m immediately out of the Dales and into the edge of the Lake District which I visited in April so slightly feel like I’m failing at exploring new places but it means I’m not on the motorway so I’ll give myself a pass.

Also it’s really pretty

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First stop is Brougham Castle because it was on the map and I thought it looked cool. Turns out it is quite impressive. Just a 2 minute stop though as I’m aiming for coffee and there isn’t any without paying an entrance fee as far as I can tell.

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Next up is Hartside Pass which has been on my “Roads to Ride” list for a while and ride magazine has a cafe stop on (spoiler alert: there is no cafe).

It’s a fantastic bit of road and the views are stunning. If you live close enough for this to be local I think I hate you now! (Sorry - I meant to say it’s a pothole minefield with an average speed cameras the entire way and a thousand camper vans going up and down it).

Reaching the top I was disappointed by the lack of coffee but not by the view.

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On from there the A686 is a fantastic bit of road and clearly very popular with bikers. My route took me off on the B6305 and shortly after the turn in I passed a cafe that was open so a quick u-turn and I’m set with tea and scones! Win.

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A quick fuel stop for the bike in Hexham and it’s time to head south again.

Loads of towns and villages have events on this weekend which makes them a bit busier but not excessive (sorry - complete gridlock, don’t come here - crap I’m not doing well at putting people off this part of the world)!

As I pass through St John’s Chapel there’s a steady flow of bikes coming to and from a side road so I pull over to check. Sure enough Harthope Moss is accessed here and I missed it on MRA. A quick deviation is made following a couple of gents on an RT and a KTM. Very glad I did as it’s a fantastic bit of road, think Welsh mountain route but with 2 lanes!

Totally failed to get a picture but soon after we pull into Middleton-in-Teesdale and there’s an award winning chip shop so that’s lunch sorted!

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The roads continue to delight from there on but I failed to take any decent pictures. Sorry!

The weather has held out all day and as I near Ingleton again it get moody but the heavy rain has already passed.

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I’m back as the site for 3pm. Over 5 hours on the bike so it’s an added treat that there’s a gym, sauna, hot tub and pool here!

A quick workout (hottest gym I’ve ever been to!) followed by and hour of muscle recovery is just what the doctor ordered! All for £8 which is great value in my books.

Then it’s back to the same pub as last night, I wanted the steak and ale pie but they were all out on Friday. Tonight I was in luck though.

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Nicely satisfied it’s back to the tent to relieve the security guard

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(Anyone wondering about the tent pitch it’s not a normal one but the caravan owner isn’t around this week so the campsite owner suggested I pitch next to it as a wknd break - told you the people here were horrible!)

(Also - Fjen tent is doing admirably given the biblical rain that comes through a couple times a day - I’m very pleased with it)
 
Sunday

Plan for today was to explore the Dales whilst avoiding the 2 batches of heavy rain that were forecast, strategic coffee stops and flexibility of route would be required.

My main hope was to ride Buttertubs as that’s been on my list for years, everything else I was happy to flex with.

I was up early and got ready before the morning rain which was good but was not feeling it today, you know when your head is just cloudy / groggy for no real reason? I decided to start by heading up to the Wensleydale Creamery and get a cup of tea and work out my route proper. The Ride route I had for the day was a clockwise 3 part loop that would not work with the forecast so it definitely needed adapting.


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I quickly reversed the loop to head towards the drier north east corner for the start of the day and get a coffee at Manor Farm if I needed it (spoiler alert: I needed it)

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I avoided buying any cheese at 9am but it did look great!

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Heading east the traffic was light and the rain was behind me with only a light drizzle every now and again. Passing through Leyburn I pulled in to Manor Farm Cafe which had been recommended to me and is clearly a popular bike cafe that had been recommended to me, a quick coffee and my head was starting to feel normal which I needed!

From there I was heading up to Tan Hill Inn. First past Reeth where the sky even had patches of blue showing through. This was turning out better than expected!

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And then on up Regional Route 71 (according to Google) which is a fantastic mountain pass single track.

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Road conditions were great and whilst it was breezy it was dry which was an absolute win.

I got the obligatory photo with the sign at Tan Hill but 3 coffees in already and too early for lunch I ended up not staying and pressing on to explore more.

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The road south towards Buttertubs was stunning

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Just a wild beautiful morning and I’ve hit so little traffic I can’t believe it! Arriving in Keld there was a “force” at the side of the road so I stopped to check that out.

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The on to a farm campsite with a basic cafe for some tea and a bacon roll.

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4 rashes - that’s how you do it!

Next was Buttertubs, it did not disappoint! I did however enjoy it to much to stop and take a photo, it’s beautiful and a fun stretch of road as is the roads to and from it. The Yorkshire Dales are definitely not disappointing!

So far I’d escaped the morning rain completely and been essentially chasing the sunny patches so now I headed west towards Sedbergh on the A684 which was closed most of the summer. Another lovely road and it’s sunny still but I’m starting to ache which is annoying.

Looping through town I stop at Mug Story for coffee 4 of the day - I should not be flagging this much.

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Fuelled up again I decide to scrap the rest of my planned route and head back early. A big rain system is due to arrive at 3pm anyway and I’m not on form so it’s better to take it easy and enjoy the rest of the day instead to riding roads when I’m not on my A game and messing up a corner!

On the way back I stop to check out another waterfall though, it’s nice to be able to be touristy rather than just crunch out 200 miles again!

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Then it was on back to the campsite. I’d hoped to stop at Ribble Viaduct for a photo but the rain had arrived in force as I passed so I pushed on through. I seriously need to sort my visor out though, if it’s closed it mists up (pinlock is not working) and if it’s open it rains on both sides!!

A quick bakery stop in Ingleton for tomorrow’s breakfast and I’m back at the tent as the rain clears.

Tent security is on duty as I get back as well.

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Followed shortly by campsite inspection. I think she wanted to steal my breakfast!

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A quick shower and I’m into the tent with Clarksons Farm (I’m catching up) and a mug of wine just as the next storm moves through. It was quite impressive but I can’t embed a video so here’s the lightening track.

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Fortunately I had a 19:30 dinner reservation and it had cleared for my walk into town. A nice Italian place with a smashing Ragu.

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And that was Sunday done. Less time on the bike but I really enjoyed the roads I did explore and it leaves me more to see on a future visit but Monday will be a long day so I’m glad I cute it short. The final route looked like this.

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seriously need to sort my visor out though, if it’s closed it mists up (pinlock is not working) and if it’s open it rains on both sides!!
Your helmet looks very like my Neotec 3. I was having the same problem with my pinlock. I just took it out. I did, do intend to get a new pinlock but so far it’s ok without.
We were at Manor cafe on Sunday late lunch time. It was pretty busy but considering there aren’t any cafes open in Leyburn on a Sunday it was no surprise.
The Dales is on my doorstep so I get to ride there most weeks. It is good to read about someone seeing it for the first time. Hope you had a great weekend.
 
Sunday

Plan for today was to explore the Dales whilst avoiding the 2 batches of heavy rain that were forecast, strategic coffee stops and flexibility of route would be required.

My main hope was to ride Buttertubs as that’s been on my list for years, everything else I was happy to flex with.

I was up early and got ready before the morning rain which was good but was not feeling it today, you know when your head is just cloudy / groggy for no real reason? I decided to start by heading up to the Wensleydale Creamery and get a cup of tea and work out my route proper. The Ride route I had for the day was a clockwise 3 part loop that would not work with the forecast so it definitely needed adapting.


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I quickly reversed the loop to head towards the drier north east corner for the start of the day and get a coffee at Manor Farm if I needed it (spoiler alert: I needed it)

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I avoided buying any cheese at 9am but it did look great!

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Heading east the traffic was light and the rain was behind me with only a light drizzle every now and again. Passing through Leyburn I pulled in to Manor Farm Cafe which had been recommended to me and is clearly a popular bike cafe that had been recommended to me, a quick coffee and my head was starting to feel normal which I needed!

From there I was heading up to Tan Hill Inn. First past Reeth where the sky even had patches of blue showing through. This was turning out better than expected!

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And then on up Regional Route 71 (according to Google) which is a fantastic mountain pass single track.

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Road conditions were great and whilst it was breezy it was dry which was an absolute win.

I got the obligatory photo with the sign at Tan Hill but 3 coffees in already and too early for lunch I ended up not staying and pressing on to explore more.

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The road south towards Buttertubs was stunning

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Just a wild beautiful morning and I’ve hit so little traffic I can’t believe it! Arriving in Keld there was a “force” at the side of the road so I stopped to check that out.

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The on to a farm campsite with a basic cafe for some tea and a bacon roll.

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4 rashes - that’s how you do it!

Next was Buttertubs, it did not disappoint! I did however enjoy it to much to stop and take a photo, it’s beautiful and a fun stretch of road as is the roads to and from it. The Yorkshire Dales are definitely not disappointing!

So far I’d escaped the morning rain completely and been essentially chasing the sunny patches so now I headed west towards Sedbergh on the A684 which was closed most of the summer. Another lovely road and it’s sunny still but I’m starting to ache which is annoying.

Looping through town I stop at Mug Story for coffee 4 of the day - I should not be flagging this much.

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Fuelled up again I decide to scrap the rest of my planned route and head back early. A big rain system is due to arrive at 3pm anyway and I’m not on form so it’s better to take it easy and enjoy the rest of the day instead to riding roads when I’m not on my A game and messing up a corner!

On the way back I stop to check out another waterfall though, it’s nice to be able to be touristy rather than just crunch out 200 miles again!

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Then it was on back to the campsite. I’d hoped to stop at Ribble Viaduct for a photo but the rain had arrived in force as I passed so I pushed on through. I seriously need to sort my visor out though, if it’s closed it mists up (pinlock is not working) and if it’s open it rains on both sides!!

A quick bakery stop in Ingleton for tomorrow’s breakfast and I’m back at the tent as the rain clears.

Tent security is on duty as I get back as well.

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Followed shortly by campsite inspection. I think she wanted to steal my breakfast!

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A quick shower and I’m into the tent with Clarksons Farm (I’m catching up) and a mug of wine just as the next storm moves through. It was quite impressive but I can’t embed a video so here’s the lightening track.

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Fortunately I had a 19:30 dinner reservation and it had cleared for my walk into town. A nice Italian place with a smashing Ragu.

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And that was Sunday done. Less time on the bike but I really enjoyed the roads I did explore and it leaves me more to see on a future visit but Monday will be a long day so I’m glad I cute it short. The final route looked like this.

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Thanks for the photo’s and the trip, absolutely spot on👌
 
Monday

A long day ahead of me today. Ingleton to Cirencester with no motorway. I was up early so had plenty of time to shower, breakfast and pack everything away. Thanks to the rain the tent is soaking but the important part (the inside) is bone dry (I do have the footprint as well) so I’m very happy with it.

Plan for the day is 235 miles over 6 hours riding time.

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Unlike Sunday by the time I’m all packed I’m feeling good and fresh which is helpful when you have a long day ahead!

The day starts well. Ingleton to Clitheroe was my first hour of the day and it was incredible. Absolutely stunning remote mountain roads, a great start to the day.

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Clitheroe to Rochdale had a couple of nice bits but lots of towns and generally meh. I stopped for tea and cake at Hollingworth Lake just as the rain arrived.

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Then it was into the Lake District, A635 and Woodhead Road up to Holme Moss. Absolutely stunning again but very windy and on off rain so no stopping for photos I’m afraid. Then I double backed on myself up Snake Pass and got a 50/50 clear run which was fun.

Working my way south I stopped at The Bird Cafe in Hope Valley for lunch. With naturally more wildlife to accompany me.

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Then it was straight south between Coventry and Birmingham and down the Foss Way to home. No photos as it was a long day on the bike and I was tired so wanted to make progress.

A great fun weekend. Yorkshire Dales definitely need visiting again but maybe for a week next time as they are a long way away!
 
Great 'little trip'....as in, it's local to most in the UK for a long weekend, not an 800 mile slog etc

Yep - loads of great places to explore in the UK. I’d visit Scotland more if I lived up north but instead I have Wales on my doorstep and can make it over to France for the weekend so I’m very fortunate in that regard!
 


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