Schuberth Helmets and Autocom (was Earplugs)

I bought a Schuberth Concept a few days back. Initial impressions of the actual helmet are in a post called "Schuberth Helmets". It was an existing thread.

One of you folks (Sorry, can't remember who) had problems fitting an Autocom into a Schuberth and particularly had an issue mounting the microphone in a sturdy position. I just spent an hour fitting mine and am very happy with it. Thought I'd share it in the hope that it may be of use to others.

First of all there is a piece of padding that slips out of the back of the helmet. Removing that and "un-velcroing" some of the lining allows you to get at the built in pockets for the ear pieces.



I then removed the padding piece that filled this cavity and fitted the ear pieces. I fund it just got in the way if it was put back in.

This next bit was the fiddliest, but the result is good. After getting the earpieces in the location I wanted, by using trial and error to rotate them so that the speaker was alligned with my ear (They are oval, so rotation changes the actual position of the speaker), I used masking tape to hold them in place. I found without this, they sat in the cavity, but slipped out. Masking tape is ideal for this, as you can easily tear it to the right shape. It also has a slight bit of give/stretch in it that sellotape doesn't.



Doesn't look great, but works well. Kind of like me actually! I used quite a bit of pressure on the edges of each earpiece once in place, o bed it into the polystyrene. This increases the comfort as well as further securing the fit.

I then carefully worked the wires into and around the edges and the back of the helmet itself. When both sides are done, the velcro lining can be stuck back.

Now, admitedly I had to use a bit of gentle force and a screwdriver to get the microphone in place, but you can see from the picture, where I have located it. Use a large flat screwdriver and just gently work it in between the lining and the helmet. Try it a number of times until the slot is just big enough to slide the microphone in so that it's tight. (Steady!) The end reslut is very firm and feels solid, allowing movement of the microphone arm, without movement within the fitting area itself.



It may not be too clear from the picture, but the Mic cable actually comes out as the same place where the yelloe lead goes in. I then threaded it up the side of the helmet to take up some of the slack, as it was too long. For a close up of the entrance/exit point for the mic and other leads.



Finally, I don't use the autocom all the time, and I found that the mic could be tucked down and fastened under a lining stud as shown.



I like that a lot, as it's secure and out of wear and tears way, and yet easy to get at when it's needed.

Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any questions. End result is supreme comfort and brilliant sound in exactly the right place......Oh...and if you haven't read the write up I did under the other thread....I love this helmet!

Rgs,

Richard

Hi

After reading your notes, I looked into the 'concept' a bit further...

If you remove the two small Torx screws from the black plastic trim on the outside of the lid, you can easily remove the cheek pads. I then opened a small hole to push the microphone through over the top of the cheek pad, more like the Autocom instructions for the System 4. I was then able to run the wires between the cheek pads and shell to exit by the press studded trim at the bottom.

It was a bit tricky locating the microphone connector/heatshrink blob without fouling the workings of the 'sun shade', but found that it slips behind the strap attachment point. When you screw the cheek pad back in, it clamps up lovely between the shell and polystyrene!

Also, I used velcro to hold the earpieces in place, as this allows me to move them around without dismantling the thing.

I ran a stereo phono cable from the Autocom up to the handlebars, where I would like to attach a digital FM radio of some sort. Anyone got any recommendations for something that would work well on a bike? Some of the Walkman things aren't very sensitive and need retuning every few miles.

Cheers

Sean Kelly said:

Hi

Anyone got any recommendations for something that would work well on a bike? Some of the Walkman things aren't very sensitive and need retuning every few miles.

Cheers

Click to expand...

If it hasn't got a very good internal aerial (many personal radios use the headphone lead as an aerial) and some auto scan/re-tune facility don't bother - I have a CD player with bog-standard tuner and do not achieve much success at all - even when its placed in map case on tank bag.

Best of luck!

What was the problem with the CD? Did it skip even with the anti-skip thingy (mental blockage.....can't remember what it's called, but you know what I mean!). Was there just too much vibration, or was there another problem?

Regards,

Richard

richwi said:

What was the problem with the CD? Did it skip even with the anti-skip thingy (mental blockage.....can't remember what it's called, but you know what I mean!). Was there just too much vibration, or was there another problem?

Regards,

Richard

Click to expand...

Sorry to confuse you Richard it is the tuner that is of little use - the CD is fine it is a Sony with G-shock. Don't bother with anything that isn't JOG proof - the cheaper ones are only shock proof and this isn't enough. Alternatively go for broke and get solid state. I'm currently looking at Apple's iPod. Yummy but not for the faint hearted

Been looking for info about fitting Autocom speakers into my Schuberth Concept and found this thread - lots of useful info.

One question remains though, is it better to exit the lead on the left or the right side of the lid? or doesn't make any difference?