Taken off Y piece, thats better!!!

beakmeister

Guest
Might just be me, but I got fed up with the backfiring and rougher running and put the Cat back on, feels just as quick to me, engine runs sweeter and as a bonus, the gearchanges are easier:confused:
Back to standard now for me (that cat is pug ugly tho'):D
 
I also got fed up with the backfiring.. but found less surging using a y piece with the standard exhaust , than when the cat is fitted.

Sold the y piece so have stuck with the standard system....
 
Bryn said:
I also got fed up with the backfiring.. but found less surging using a y piece with the standard exhaust , than when the cat is fitted.

Sold the y piece so have stuck with the standard system....

I have not noticed any diference with surging, seems the same with or without. I too have sold the "Y" and will not be fitting an end can either:eek:
 
Should have done the Steptoe mod, cures the backfire :D
 
Beacon - Search is your friend. Hope you've got a couple of hours :D
Too much info to sumarise, but it seems to work for some but not all.
 
Les Wassall said:
Should have done the Steptoe mod, cures the backfire :D

Not on my bike it didn't in fact it made it worse and the fueling is totally buggered up.
 
Les Wassall said:
Should have done the Steptoe mod, cures the backfire :D

It was not just the backfire, the engine felt, sounded and ran rougher and I was given the impression that by plugging the lambda sensor back in, it would sort out the fueling automaticaly, this is quite clearly not the case if you have to monkey around with settings etc. I have just done 1100 miles in France over 5 days with the bike catted, it was superb with and without luggage, averaged over 50 to the gallon, kept with sportier bikes in the twisties and topped out around 130mph in the more rural backwaters (with a good run up!) I am more than happy with it as standard ta very much and after selling the "Y" I am looking to spend the money on sorting out that buffeting:D
 
flooky said:
130??? wow. mine must be fuked

Probably, but you know what these GS speedo's are like! Being followed by a speed triple at the time who clocked 126 on his digital speedo:thumb (that will be 121 mph then!)
:peach:
 
I too am fed up of the coughs, splutters and bangs from my Remus and y piece set up.

I'm going back to the standard set up for the next 6k to see how I get on.

Might be a Remus up for sale on here soon.
 
retroman said:
I too am fed up of the coughs, splutters and bangs from my Remus and y piece set up.

I'm going back to the standard set up for the next 6k to see how I get on.

Might be a Remus up for sale on here soon.

Go for it Retroman, keep us posted as to the results :D
 
I just fitted a y and pipe......like the noise....just waiting for the holed pistons now!!!!
 
I'm sticking with OE ... smoother, just as impressive performance, no headache when I come back from a long blast.

Remus sold, glad I got rid of the bloody thing.
 
Hmm....

On my 2001 1150GS I’ve kept the CAT but fitted an alu Remus Revolution and removed the CAT code plug. Fuelling at low revs is a little better, the throttle response is a little quicker, weight is less, and it has an altogether nicer, deeper exhaust note (baffle pipe in). No problems here. :thumb

Lee.

.
 
I am a little supprised on the comments about the Y piece,
my 2002 Adventure with Cat and STD can runs OK but had the 'dreaded' surge 2500/3000 r/min.
Changing to Y piece and STD can made the bike more responsive in the first stage of fuelling (and a lot lighter)
See the link below for dyno run posed a month or so ago by another memeber
it also moved, and reduced 'surge' down by 500 r/min and made less noticeable.
I really wouldn’t bother with a 'can' as the Y piece makes it loud enough.
Yes it does have the very odd 'pop' on the over run, tried the Steptoe code dodge but made no difference, I am convinced its caused by minute air leak in the exhaust system, but too lazy to do anything about it, as i have now know how to reduce it happening

(http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51567)



:beer:
 
I suggest you play around with your TPS setting - it can make a huge difference to both surging and backfiring. I started off on 0.385v and gradually reduced and it improved the lower it went. Currently on 0.35v but I may try going lower. That's with a Y-piece and Revolution can.

Surging seems to me to occur around the point that the TPS ceases to have an effect on fuelling and where the ECU mapping takes over. Adjusting the TPS to minimise the 'step' between the two appears in my experience to make a huge difference to the way the bike rides.
 
sproggy said:
I suggest you play around with your TPS setting - it can make a huge difference to both surging and backfiring. I started off on 0.385v and gradually reduced and it improved the lower it went. Currently on 0.35v but I may try going lower. That's with a Y-piece and Revolution can.

Surging seems to me to occur around the point that the TPS ceases to have an effect on fuelling and where the ECU mapping takes over. Adjusting the TPS to minimise the 'step' between the two appears in my experience to make a huge difference to the way the bike rides.


Thanks for that advice, i did adjust the TPS setting to about 0.375 from memory long ago , wrote it down, but too lazy to look, i thought the lower the TPS value equals less butterfly angle, equals less fuel ?was the more'surgy' it got ? read lots of confussing posts at the time.
Bike runs well and gives 50 mpg on a run with Y and std can, brisk plugs ?and almost no surge.
Would be intersted to have a clear answer on TPS, whats the difference if you set it with the engine off or running at idle ?
and 'pop' on over run
sorry about all the question marks

:beer:
 
I don't believe that there's a definitive answer to the 'correct' TPS setting, and neither do BWM because they quote a range and not a single value. The higher the voltage returned by the TPS for a given throttle opening the richer the mixture, so by adjusting it to reduce the voltage (measured with the throttle closed) you will make it run leaner and that adjustment will apply throughout the range of the TPS.

The ideal value will vary from bike to bike with different production tolerances and also with different modifications (air filter, Y, can etc). My advice is don't believe anyone who tells you a specific figure - just because it works on their bike doesn't mean it will work on yours. Spend some time adjusting it to different values and riding the bike - I've been changing mine once a week which gives me plenty of time (commuting - mixture of motorway, A, B roads and city traffic) to evaluate the results, and I reckon I'm close to getting it right.

Compared to your current setting of 0.375v it is by no means a foregone conclusion that reducing this will cause/increase surging - it certainly didn't in my case. But if you're happy with the way the bike runs now, as you seem to be, and unless you're a hopeless fiddler (like me :D ) maybe you should just leave it as it is?

As for setting the TPS with or without engine running, since all advice/instruction is to set it with the engine off why question it? With the engine running and the alternator 'pumping', the voltage in the system might increase enough to affect the reading, but I guess that as long as you're consistent in how you measure it that's the main thing. I'd still do it with engine off, though.
 


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