Taken off Y piece, thats better!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter beakmeister
  • Start date Start date
Surge!!!!

Ok,

I have 1150GSA and have dumped the cat for a Remus Y piece. Also I have played with the TPS to the extent it is about .500!!!!! Still a little lunge on throttle closing.


Now for the importnat bit , got the old girl dynoed today and it is running near perfect fueling with throttle wound on :D , however on small and half throttle opening it is weak and a massive spike on the air/ fuel mix at 2500 rpm (emmissions regs?).

I have a K & N filter and was thinking of dumping this for the standard to rich up a bit.

To be honest I was going to put the cat back on and reset everything to standard. Now reading this I think it may lean the mix off more!!!

I have got cat code jumper (Steptoe link) and I found this increased the Co2 output to 2.4% from 1.5%.

Okay question: does any one know how all the cat code plugs affect the fuelling?


and: will the cat lean up the mix?


Fred the curious :confused:
 
O E for me

Always wondered why there were plenty of secondhand cans and y pieces for sale. After reading those posts my minds made up thanks for the info.

Darth.
 
Be a lot of lean run bikes on the market as well. How many times have we seen this trend. If the combined powers of BMW get it right ( well almost) with the standard setting and set up why do people think that back room remedies etc will improve on their RandD budgets. Went down the Remus and Y route myself on the last bike and lasted 2 weeks before making the decision that it made naff all real world difference. Sold it all, went back to normal and happy till I sold the bike. The GSA has been standard from new and have no wish to tinker. There are those that will tinker and good luck to them, we all love the bikes and some will constantly try to improve on something that basicaly works anyway otherwise we would not be buying them in the numbers we do. If it works why fix it? I do think that they sound like a wet fart compared to a four on full chat anyway so why try to make the FART LOUDER. :thumb
 
ANDY MELTON said:
If the combined powers of BMW get it right ( well almost) with the standard setting and set up why do people think that back room remedies etc will improve on their RandD budgets.
Click to expand...

BMW have to produce a bike that will meet noise and emissions regulations in all of the countries in which it is sold - this means a catalytic convertor and a heavy 'silencer'. Because of the regulations they are unable to optimise the bike for torque/power or smooth throttle response except as a secondary function to complying with regulations.

After-market manufacturers such as Remus don't have to comply with the regulations relating to new motorcycles and can therefore ditch the heavy and restrictive cat and offer a less restrictive and much lighter can. These considerably reduce the flow restriction in the exhaust system (not to mention knocking 5-10kg off the weight of the bike) BUT it should be remembered that the factory ECU mapping is optimised for the standard exhaust and only by changing to a different mapping (i.e. by replacing the 'chip') can you expect to see significant gains from a Y-piece and aftermarket can.

fredkat41 said:
Also I have played with the TPS to the extent it is about .500!!!!!
Click to expand...

Anything over 0.400v will register an error in the Motronic. 0.5v is so far over the recommended range that if you need this setting to get the bike running properly there may well be something wrong.
 
I guess I must be very lucky then. I put a Y piece on my 2000 1150 4 years ago. I use a standard can. It improved fuel consumption by about 5% and mid-range seemed to be smoother. I've never had the surging problem and the backfire was "tuned out" by the mechanic at Wessons (yes, that Wessons :) ).

I did nothing other than put the Y piece on and reconnect the Lambda sensor thingy.

I can also use leaded fuel if I need to (during a fuel strike in France all the unleaded had gone but they still had supplies of Super). Nah, I'll stay with the Y piece.

Cheers

Dick
 
So is there an idiots guide to adjusting the TPS? My biek seems very rich lately and I cant dial it out with the Techlusion either?
 
If the combined powers of BMW get it right ( well almost) with the standard setting and set up why do people think that back room remedies etc will improve on their RandD budgets.

Andy I am not in agreement with the 'back room ' remedies statement regarding the CAT, the only reason the CAT is there is to clean up the emission, its compounded by the fact that its an air cooled engine, air cooled engines are notoriously dirty when cold, and as the emission regs work on a duty cycle, the CAT was most probably only put in to pass the test when cold, so why lug it about forever. I think the reason that people want to change things is that the original leaves a lot of room for improvement ,the fuel system is out of the 1970’s
It may have got through the emission regs, but at the expense of smooth running.
:beer:
 
pomm001 said:
the CAT was most probably only put in to pass the test when cold
Click to expand...

The opposite is actually true - catalytic convertors work only when their 'innards' are up to operating (i.e. high) temperature - they have no effect on emissions when the engine and cat are cold.

However air-cooled engines warm up faster than water-cooled ones - there's no water to heat up. Why would an air-cooled engine be dirtier than a watercooled one when cold? :confused:
 
Why would an air-cooled engine be dirtier than a watercooled one when cold?

operating clearances of pistons/rings are larger when cold - incomplete combustion - and oil mist is let out past the rings
 
sproggy said:
The opposite is actually true - catalytic convertors work only when their 'innards' are up to operating (i.e. high) temperature - they have no effect on emissions when the engine and cat are cold.

However air-cooled engines warm up faster than water-cooled ones - there's no water to heat up. Why would an air-cooled engine be dirtier than a watercooled one when cold? :confused:
Click to expand...

Don’t agree, the optimum for a CAT is to reach operating temp as quickly as possible, engine start up and first few minutes is one of the worst emissions times , hence to get the CAT up to temp as quickly as poss is most important.
The CAT will be working before the temp gauge gets moving.

My use of the word ‘cold’ is confussing with hindsight I should have said from cold start up to stabilised temp

Air cooled engines have to run with larger cylinder tolerances to accommodate the hit and miss cylinder cooling, this leads to higher blow-by losses and less complete combustion over a range when compared to water cooled.
An air-cooled engine has to be toleranced to allow cold starting at zero and be able to run in a 40deg ambient without seizure
Modern water cooled engines have a very small amount of water around the cylinders, warm up is rapid and water temp controlled
So gets to its optimum operating temperature quicker and stays there, hence cleaner emissions, most late ( 2000ish) Jap multies
dont run CATS. ( the ones i have had )
:beer:
 
Can one of you lot put my mind at rest?

I inherited my dad's Remus revolution from when he traded his R1150R for an RT and its now looking pretty on my R1150GS.

The cat remains on but the remus internal baffle is removed. I have not noticed any bad running but then again I only did about 50 miles on the original can so I can't say for sure that it wasn't better before. Also the can's mouth appears to have some sooty deposits which I've always beleived meant running rich: the opposite to what normally happens when you free up the system, eg by removing an internal baffle.

When the can was fitted to the R1150R, the dealer said that it was unlikely to have a bad affect on the bike. I hope the same is true of my GS. So, should I worry about any fuelling issues or damage to this sensor and that, or will such a small change not really affect the bike?

Vote now! Banzai!
 
Conventional theory suggests that changing the can while retaining the cat will have a negligible effect on mixture - certainly less than ditching the cat and keeping the standard can. You should be fine with the Revolution.

Don't worry about the sooty deposits - "They all do that, sir".
 
My back room remedies comment was not reffering to the ability of anyone to change a Can and Cat for a Y etc. its was the ability of the average Joe to re map. re jet, re program the ECU and whatever else might be needed when the standard spec is alltered on an exhuast. How many people are riding around on a MODIFIED SPEC bike ( in insurers eyes) and have failed to have this placed on the documentation for the bike. Despite what many of them say if it is altered from standard OEM spec then its modified if you have a prang. You have a major prang and the jetting is the least of your worries if you go to court without insurance or voided insurance. We all know how eager the insurance companies are to pay out. Now that should no doubt start another whole set of replies. Why am I bothered? Years ago the misses got rear ended (????) at a set of lights by a bike. Nuff said, numbers exchanged, insurance contaced etc. Guy later turns out to have a modified bike and his insurers are going to refuse cover and we are going to have an interesting time of the claim. Guy rings us up pleading his case and the fact that he needs to keep his bike etc and if the cops get involved he might lose his job, theres a kid on the way etc etc etc. Point is the tw@t had a modified bike, no insurance cover cos of the modifications etc and we were going to be out of pocket. If he had killed a child on the crossing how would he have pleaded his case? He lost a lot more than a few nights sleep when it all finished and he got his just desserts.
 
Warthog said:
Can one of you lot put my mind at rest?
Click to expand...

No, we cant, at least not without your bike and a dyno to test it on. Anything else is guesswork, albeit based on a large number of these bikes with the same modification.

But if you want to be 100% sure, spend £25-£30 + VAT on a dyno run. Your bike will then reveal its air fuel ratio across the rev range. The dyno operator will be able to tell you for sure if its going to be ok or not.

Dyno run = £30 ish. New pistons etc = £lots! :eek
 
ANDY MELTON said:
If the combined powers of BMW get it right ( well almost) with the standard setting and set up why do people think that back room remedies etc will improve on their RandD budgets.
Click to expand...

If BMW had the choice they would build it without the Cat I suspect.

In October 2006, truck engines have to meet EURO IV, which most will do by resetting the engine controls to EURO I standards and squirting Urea (ie cow piss known as Addblue) into the exhaust to clean up the gasses. As a consequence, trucks gain 10% more power and 10% better fuel economy.

Emissions controls impede performance.

However, I don't suggest that any of us can make an 1150 perform without a Cat as BMW can can with it.

My firm advice is stay away from trucks with leaking tanks.
 
Darth Vader said:
Always wondered why there were plenty of secondhand cans and y pieces for sale.....
Darth.
Click to expand...

Yeh, always struck me as strange, until that is I fitted mine. I have no regrets getting rid :thumb
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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